Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Bor

[fistinyoface]

So what's good these days, artisaners? Who's liking what? Throw me something interesting to look at or just what you think has been cool. Since the Altieri lode has seemingly run dry I've been dipping my toes in other pools about the place.

Devoa's been pretty good these last few seasons though no one but the Japanese and I seem to care. IS is still kicking on as my undisputed favourite label when it comes to fabrics but treading water when it comes to their patterns. L-0, LUC, A1923, and m.a+ are all still playing their greatest hits. Due to previous negligence I currently have a massive hard-on for m.a+. PR Patterson continues to be sold in all over three stores in the world an their photography is on par with bigfoot sightings.

I've also found I have a slight crush on Viridi Anne. While looking for some super-fly cropped pants and oversized short sleeve tee's and button ups to survive the approaching Australian summer, I've discovered (rediscovered?) they churn out plenty of sick versions of both. Anyone else got any rec's for this thread's brands for summer biz that I may have overlooked? Oh yeah, I bought a JJVE cotton/linen jumpsuit and it's the ****.

 

[oulipien]

I really liked the look of the paper/linen selvage Viridi-Anne coat but, uh, didn't actually get it. (As with Devoa, not many stockists carry my size, especially Japanese stockists.)

Ierib's jackets and coats look great on instagram.

I confess I don't really see the big deal with PR Patterson (or Archivio JM Ribot). It seems kind of ordinary-looking? Do you have to handle it in person?

 

[oulipien]

I can never tell who counts as "artisanal" but NMWA started carrying Abasi Rosborough, which seems like an interesting development.

 

[fistinyoface]

Patterson is kinda like cdiem/lmaltieri's work but it's not a twelve year old heirloom you got from y! auctions or grailed. He gives me the Altieri vibe of old. It's all done in beautiful and simple fabrics; cotton canvas, linen, and wool. The cuts are simple but beautiful. My description sounds lame as ****, sorry. Basically if you dig the old Carpe **** then you'll like it a lot. It's also hideously expensive and hard to find.

Whereas Archivio JM Ribot is boring Harnden/Geoffrey B Small worship crap dressed up by their PR team to be some kind of mysterious new uber brand. Pretty telling they came out of nowhere in 2015(?) and priced themselves to the top floor of the tower of babylon. But I guess some folks ate it up. Or maybe I'm the one who didn't understand it and I'm full of ****.

Edi: Basically if you like Harnden/Elena Dawson, then just follow this list:

• Garment Reproduction of Workers
  
• Araki Yuu
• Bergfabel
• Geoffrey B. Small
  
• Arts & Science (to a lesser degree)

 

[fistinyoface]

Abasi Rosborough is cool. Just not my cool. They're too sleek for me. I tend to look more like I sleep in my clothes.

 

[LA Guy]

So what's good these days, artisaners? Who's liking what? Throw me something interesting to look at or just what you think has been cool. Since the Altieri lode has seemingly run dry I've been dipping my toes in other pools about the place.

Devoa's been pretty good these last few seasons though no one but the Japanese and I seem to care. IS is still kicking on as my undisputed favourite label when it comes to fabrics but treading water when it comes to their patterns. L-0, LUC, A1923, and m.a+ are all still playing their greatest hits. Due to previous negligence I currently have a massive hard-on for m.a+. PR Patterson continues to be sold in all over three stores in the world an their photography is on par with bigfoot sightings.

I've also found I have a slight crush on Viridi Anne. While looking for some super-fly cropped pants and oversized short sleeve tee's and button ups to survive the approaching Australian summer, I've discovered (rediscovered?) they churn out plenty of sick versions of both. Anyone else got any rec's for this thread's brands for summer biz that I may have overlooked? Oh yeah, I bought a JJVE cotton/linen jumpsuit and it's the ****.

Um... M.A. + is cutting "relaxed" jackets now, which means that you might not have to size 2 sizes up just to get a tight fit? That's something, right?

Deepti belt treatments are pretty excellent - I know not everyone shares my enthusiasm. Also, because of the nature of the treatments, unless you've never worn them, they have basically no resale value, since they crack (or should) within about the first month.

I can never tell who counts as "artisanal" but NMWA started carrying Abasi Rosborough, which seems like an interesting development.

The patterns are pretty interesting. A lot of the stuff is fairly wearable as separates, if you are not into head to toe looks.

 

[JayFS]

Uma Wang's aw18 collection is probably one of my favorites from this season, especially the womens. Love the stripes and earthy tones.

 

[Mojo1990]

So I just received my JJVE Knit#42 and I'm considering a return unless one of you folks is interested?
https://area001shop.com/collections...tch-black-merichan-wide-fit-crew-neck-knit-42
Lovely fabric, slightly dry. Fits nice but I feel kinda itchy.

 

[Mojo1990]

Patterson is kinda like cdiem/lmaltieri's work but it's not a twelve year old heirloom you got from y! auctions or grailed. He gives me the Altieri vibe of old. It's all done in beautiful and simple fabrics; cotton canvas, linen, and wool. The cuts are simple but beautiful. My description sounds lame as ****, sorry. Basically if you dig the old Carpe **** then you'll like it a lot. It's also hideously expensive and hard to find.

Whereas Archivio JM Ribot is boring Harnden/Geoffrey B Small worship crap dressed up by their PR team to be some kind of mysterious new uber brand. Pretty telling they came out of nowhere in 2015(?) and priced themselves to the top floor of the tower of babylon. But I guess some folks ate it up. Or maybe I'm the one who didn't understand it and I'm full of ****.

Edi: Basically if you like Harnden/Elena Dawson, then just follow this list:

• Garment Reproduction of Workers
  
• Araki Yuu
• Bergfabel
• Geoffrey B. Small
  
• Arts & Science (to a lesser degree)

Dude, Archivio JM Ribot has an awesome photoshoot with the old dude Really ethereal almost. Regal is perhaps a better word. Yea the prices are high though. GBS quality is unsurpassed.and I agree about IS. Her work is marvelous. I'm more a relaxed atelier utility style guy. Forme D'Expression has a awesome work jacket, especially the blue linen mix available at SP.

 

[fistinyoface]

Uma Wang looks all right. But looking at her stuff (and @Mojo1990 's post above) reminded me that Forme D'expression are still about and pretty great. Forgot about her for a bit there.

Um... M.A. + is cutting "relaxed" biz and Deepti belts

Ya. Since I wasn't too into m.a+ clothing in the past, I've got plenty of old ground to cover. Even if it is mostly inspired by Amadei's time with the rest of the gang. But hey, you go with what you like. And I don't like the new "relaxed jackets".

But I hear you on the Deepti belts. I'm going to grab one of those "crash" belts. The tie-in to the movie is lame - why didn't she think to reference the book the movie was based on? The treatment is cool enough for me to overlook that and channel my inner-Fok and allow my belt game to grow.

 

[oulipien]

Deepti belt treatments are pretty excellent - I know not everyone shares my enthusiasm

Not about the belts, but her outerwear is really appealing to me, and her fabrics look super interesting. I'm a little leery of what I expect to be a super tight fit, though (and the price, but that goes with the territory). I really adored her broken-glass crash tuxedo—I thought it was just beautiful.

 

[oulipien]

reminded me that Forme D'expression are still about and pretty great.

Forme SS19 previews on their instagram looked really promising.

 

[oulipien]

Are there any places I should particularly check out in Vienna or Rome?

 

[nicelynice]

PR Patterson is alright but it's super expensive for what it is. It's also not that exciting. ..

 

[Mojo1990]

Forme SS19 previews on their instagram looked really promising.

Her fabric is sourced from Italy and the Mills are often the same as GBS. So you looking at the best