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Shoenut

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Interesting comment about the reverse welts. If I could, I would remove all the reverse welts on my shoes. They make the soles bigger than I want. Are there durability advantages to having a reverse welt, such as, will it handle winter weather better?
Most won’t handle weather any better. It is a little harder to scuff the leather upper though.
 

jpm1

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general)? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

View attachment 1064417
What size are those? Did you have them MTOd or were they stock somewhere?

I ask because years ago I worked for Allen Edmonds. I MTOd a pair of Higgins Mills in Burgundy shell with a flat welt and JR sole. I was aiming to replicate the Alden Pitt boot. I ended up not taking them as the last was too bulbous for what I was looking for.

Curious if those might be that pair - 12D.
 

madhat

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Interesting comment about the reverse welts. If I could, I would remove all the reverse welts on my shoes. They make the soles bigger than I want. Are there durabilityadvantages to having a reverse welt, such as, will it handle winter weather better?
As others have said, a reverse welt is more about aesthetics. Now, if we talk about a true storm welt...but, even is will just help increase water resistance.

There are reverse welts that are no wider than a flat welt. Plus, I think a long wing NEEDS a reverse welt.
 

Vocans

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What size are those? Did you have them MTOd or were they stock somewhere?

I ask because years ago I worked for Allen Edmonds. I MTOd a pair of Higgins Mills in Burgundy shell with a flat welt and JR sole. I was aiming to replicate the Alden Pitt boot. I ended up not taking them as the last was too bulbous for what I was looking for.

Curious if those might be that pair - 12D.

They're 9.5E. Picked these up for a song from Dabondo1 off eBay shortly after the big GMTO on SF. Not sure who originally had them as these specs weren't listed on the spreadsheet and only a couple of pairs went out with flat welts, to my knowledge. Only flaw I can find with them is that one shaft is ever so slightly higher than the other so I'm surprised AE even took them back.
 

jet-stream

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Shakers this evening...
FEC0130A-C234-4559-BAE9-F744CB7F8897.jpeg
 

savvysartorial

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general)? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

View attachment 1064417

as @madhat said, a cobbler can do the welt change. B Nelson should have no issues. I actually prefer my shoes with a flat welt. I actually saw a Dundee with a flat welt and it TOTALLY changed the look of the boot; made it much dressier and I absolutely loved it.

It'll cost you $60 for the welt change and another $200 for a sole change or so... Up to you if that's worth it.

It looks nice with the flat welt. It makes the boot more sleek and refined. IMO.

I concur, love flat welts.

That's easily done if they do a full resole/welt job.

It can look good and less dressy at the same time; alden version below

View attachment 1064420
 

savvysartorial

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I think that these McAllisters could be from a custom makeup or past webgem in either truffle or cappuccino shell. They're from 2012. View attachment 1064551

WlrhcS5.jpg


SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY. McAllister? Jefferson? What do the side of the wings look like?

That wheeling it OUT OF THIS WORLD heavy and I love it. The welts and edges remind me of Alden's antique edges. Lord, somebody get me a cool drink because those are HOT
 

Vocans

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as @madhat said, a cobbler can do the welt change. B Nelson should have no issues. I actually prefer my shoes with a flat welt. I actually saw a Dundee with a flat welt and it TOTALLY changed the look of the boot; made it much dressier and I absolutely loved it.

It'll cost you $60 for the welt change and another $200 for a sole change or so... Up to you if that's worth it.



I concur, love flat welts.

I think I paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $275 for these all said and done so I'm probably still way ahead on these in any event. I generally prefer a flat welt too but some boots and shoes just look better with split reverse in my opinion. Non-shell Indys, LWBs, tankers/NSTs (other than something relatively sleek like Plaza or Aberdeen) and PTBs look better with split reverse. Cap toes, WTBs/SWBs and monks definitely need flat. My scheme shifts somewhat based on the last and a few other details, though. Essentially, if the makeup is designed to be bulky, you just need to own it. Anything else is lipstick on a pig :)
 

savvysartorial

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I think I paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $275 for these all said and done so I'm probably still way ahead on these in any event. I generally prefer a flat welt too but some boots and shoes just look better with split reverse in my opinion. Non-shell Indys, LWBs, tankers/NSTs (other than something relatively sleek like Plaza or Aberdeen) and PTBs look better with split reverse. Cap toes, WTBs/SWBs and monks definitely need flat. My scheme shifts somewhat based on the last and a few other details, though. Essentially, if the makeup is designed to be bulky, you just need to own it. Anything else is lipstick on a pig :)

That all makes sense to me! What a steal on a great pair of boots! Believe you me, I am a jealous man!!!
 

savvysartorial

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@ProfilaBinding thumbing through my closet on a cold, rainy Friday night and I realized I have a number of unworn pairs I've never shared with you guys along with a few MTO that have never seen the light of day.... I think my new gig is the time and place to wear them so I'll have to break them in around the house and then wear them to work.

@ProfilaBinding happy you found those Universities before the wife did, otherwise we wouldn't be seeing much of you around here anymore.... :hide:

My package (surprise) is scheduled for delivery tomorrow but the postman always delivers to us late in the evening.... :angry: Hate the suspense!!
 
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