A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

[Evolve]



That midnight with the off-white stripe is a fantastic tie. Wish David still had the fabric.

He does. Enough for 16 ties, according to his website: http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-g...-stripe-on-midnight-blue-grenadine-tie-5.html

 

[sevenfoldtieguy]

Considering a burnt orange tie. Thoughts (particularly from those of you that have one from Hober)?

http://www.samhober.com/?search_per...ories&pcode=&dispatch[products.search]=Search

The link is for a search of "burnt orange" on Hober's website.

I was struck by the color difference when comparing the oxford weave to the diamond weave (or to any of the others). The oxford weave is much darker, almost brown.

 

[pinkpanther]



Considering a burnt orange tie. Thoughts (particularly from those of you that have one from Hober)?

http://www.samhober.com/?search_per...ories&pcode=&dispatch[products.search]=Search

The link is for a search of "burnt orange" on Hober's website.

I was struck by the color difference when comparing the oxford weave to the diamond weave (or to any of the others). The oxford weave is much darker, almost brown.

I have the burnt orange diamond weave and it is one of my favorites. There is indeed quite a difference between the diamond weave and oxford weave. Here is a pic of the swatches.

 

[sevenfoldtieguy]

Considering a burnt orange tie. Thoughts (particularly from those of you that have one from Hober)?

http://www.samhober.com/?search_per...ories&pcode=&dispatch[products.search]=Search

The link is for a search of "burnt orange" on Hober's website.

I was struck by the color difference when comparing the oxford weave to the diamond weave (or to any of the others). The oxford weave is much darker, almost brown.

I have the burnt orange diamond weave and it is one of my favorites. There is indeed quite a difference between the diamond weave and oxford weave. Here is a pic if the swatches.

Thanks PP. I like both of those weaves. I am leaning towards the diamond as I already have a tie fairly close in color to the oxford. But I'd be happy to hear thoughts from those of you that may own any of the other ones pictured.

 

[pazzion]

I see you ended up buying this one - good move! I personally think it's a great tie and I've been using it more and more. Nice pocket square too.

Yes, I did. Thank you very much for the swatch! I love it. I had it made as an unlined 7-fold, and the feel is amazing. Thanks!

To my eye the lined 6 fold looks the best. But all are very nice.

Thank you, sevenfoldtieguy.

I'm wearing the same tie PP. Awesome. Thanks for sharing the pics and thoughts pazzion.

Thanks, tdude.

 

[applky]

^ @pazzion it's odd how your unlined seven folds seem to have that strange dimple. @SpooPoker 's unlined seven fold seems to dimple like your lightly lined six folds:

http://lacasuarina.tumblr.com/post/35363240312/i-guess-you-can-call-this-my-birthday-suit

http://lacasuarina.tumblr.com/post/37215829220/giving-you-the-full-joker-paul-smith-green

You both obviously know how to tie a tie well. Can't tell why there should be this difference.

 

[jayw]

I was just browsing and trying to learn about what makes a quality tie a quality tie. After doing some research I found out about the silk being "cut to the bias" or 45 degrees. Does this method of cutting the silk mean the stripes on the ties (the weave, not the pattern) will lie at 45 degrees as well? I'm just using Sam Hober as an example here because the ties on their sites don't have the weave at exactly 45° (see links). Btw, I'm just unaware and trying to learn, and just using Sam Hober as an example. Cheers.

http://www.samhober.com/madder-twill-silk-ties/midnight-blue-twill-madder-solid-silk-4.html
http://www.samhober.com/madder-twill-silk-ties/charcoal-gray-twill-madder-solid-silk-9-en.html

 

[applky]

^ On my Hobers, the twill goes horizontally.

 

[jayw]

^ On my Hobers, the twill goes horizontally.

Yeah. I figured that on patterned ties it has to be horizontal or diagonal so it doesn't throw of the symmetry of the pattern. I'm more curious about solid ties that have asymmetric twill.

 

[pinkpanther]



^ On my Hobers, the twill goes horizontally.

+1 - same for mine. In addition, I have no idea about whether or not silk cut on a bias is better, worse or the same as not cut on a particular bias. Suffice it to say that Hobers are a high quality tie (and that is an understatement).

 

[jayw]

+1 - same for mine. In addition, I have no idea about whether or not silk cut on a bias is better, worse or the same as not cut on a particular bias. Suffice it to say that Hobers are a high quality tie (and that is an understatement).

I know Hobers are quality. That's why I used them as an example. Hopefully Mr. Hober can chime in here.

 

[jayw]

Jayw,

All good tie makers cut on the bias at 45 degrees.

All our ties are cut on the bias at 45 degrees - you can't tell from a photo and unless you see the silk being cut you can't say for sure - this is normal and due to the way the silk is woven.

Cutting on the bias is so normal that I don't agree that it is a sign of a good tie maker.

Instead look at the quality of the fabric - here most luxury tie makers do well.

Next look at the small details of construction. The best ties are made slowly and very carefully - this is the secret of the best tie makers.

The best made ties are bespoke/custom made ties look for listening skills does the tie maker listen to you and make suggestions when they don't agree?

Does the tie maker keep your pattern on file for future orders?

Really appreciate you taking your time to reply Sam! To be clear, I wasn't doubting the quality of your ties at all.

So to be completely clear, if the twill seems to lie at lets say 20 degrees, that has nothing to do with the silk being cut to the bias?

 

[GradSchooler]



Really appreciate you taking your time to reply Sam! To be clear, I wasn't doubting the quality of your ties at all.

So to be completely clear, if the twill seems to lie at lets say 20 degrees, that has nothing to do with the silk being cut to the bias?

He's David. His daughter is Sam. The company is named for her. And David is literally the nicest, most helpful and accommodating person you will ever do business with.

 

[TweedyProf]

So to be completely clear, if the twill seems to lie at lets say 20 degrees, that has nothing to do with the silk being cut to the bias?

I mean this to be helpful, so based on what David said, the answer has to be yes. He always cuts on the bias at 45 degrees. That the twill looks in an unexpected direction is not inconsistent with his practice (which he means is the industry standard practice so therefore not a way to distinguish a great tie maker: all quality tie makers do it).

Perhaps the question you will ask now is: do all twill silk have the same directionality in a tie (i.e. relative to the bias)? Perhaps the answer is no?

My question, based on your post, is what does it mean to cut on the bias?

And yes: I've found David to be incredibly helpful too, and I have yet to buy one of his ties though I plan to!

 

[pazzion]

^ @pazzion it's odd how your unlined seven folds seem to have that strange dimple. @SpooPoker 's unlined seven fold seems to dimple like your lightly lined six folds:

http://lacasuarina.tumblr.com/post/35363240312/i-guess-you-can-call-this-my-birthday-suit

http://lacasuarina.tumblr.com/post/37215829220/giving-you-the-full-joker-paul-smith-green

You both obviously know how to tie a tie well. Can't tell why there should be this difference.

I don't know actually. All my silk ties get this kind of off-center dimple, but the 7-fold was quite extreme. But why my dimples looks like SpooPoker's even though we have different constructions is beyond me, even though it probably has to do with technique.

I'm guessing that Spoo has been tying ties for longer than I've lived, so I must be on the right track if you see a resemblance. So thank you for the compliment!