110S 260 gram vs. 130S 315 gram for office use

[badbeat808]

Hi

I looking to buy my first suit. It's for office use all year round so the durability shall be good. I live in Sweden.

I have two options:
110S 260 gram - https://mond.dk/da/produkt/essential-plain-navyblat-jakkesaet/
130S 315 gram - https://mond.dk/da/produkt/navy-super-s130s/

Both are in merino wool in twill. The twill on the 110S is a bit more fine and I liked the look a little better than the 130S.

But I have read that the higher the super number the worse durability it has, thus worse durability for the 130S. On the other hand, the greater weight gives the 130S better durability. So I don't know what is most important.

What would you choose? And anything else I should take into considerations?

 

[A-Lawson]

If durability is your biggest concern, but still want worsted fabrics that are suitable for business, I would advise you to go with English fabrics. I know Mond carries a lot Huddersfield fabrics that are fantastic, especially "Crown Classic" from Minnis. https://www.hfwltd.com/collection/112

They also carry Drapers (VBC) fabrics from the "Superbio and Beausoleil" that are great heavier worsted fabrics that are a bit easier on your wallet. https://drapersitaly.it/bd-en/collection/bunch/superbio-and-beausoleil/

Any mill that boasts about fabrics being "superfine", is not boasting about its durability for a reason.

 

[badbeat808]

I don't know if it's my biggest concern. I just want something that's appropriate for office, and won't break like after 6 months of use.

I have picked the two suits as they are the only navy suits they have within my budget.

Any mill that boasts about fabrics being "superfine", is not boasting about its durability for a reason.

But are either of these suits categorized as superfine? And will this mean that either of these suits will not last very long?

 

[A-Lawson]

I don't know if it's my biggest concern. I just want something that's appropriate for office, and won't break like after 6 months of use.

I have picked the two suits as they are the only navy suits they have within my budget.


But are either of these suits categorized as superfine? And will this mean that either of these suits will not last very long?

Well, the super 130s, yes.

Drago generally makes light and finer fabrics, though, which are not what I consider workhorse fabrics.
Even the durability index at the bottom of the picture gives it a score of 3/5, which I would agree with.

 

[badbeat808]

View attachment 1866320
Well, the super 130s, yes.

Drago generally makes light and finer fabrics, though, which are not what I consider workhorse fabrics.
Even the durability index at the bottom of the picture gives it a score of 3/5, which I would agree with.

Ahh, I see. So how much of a difference do you believe there is between the two in durability? Because the 110S is little bit cheaper and I liked the look a little bit better, so if it's much much, I believe it make better sense to get the 110S.

 

[A-Lawson]

Ahh, I see. So how much of a difference do you believe there is between the two in durability? Because the 110S is little bit cheaper and I liked the look a little bit better, so if it's much much, I believe it make better sense to get the 110S.

The 110s will be slightly more durable in my experience.

Not that you asked, but my personal preference is super 110s-120s at 320gr to 370gr for worsteds. They last longer, wrinkle less and drape much better. I would honestly stay away from "all-year fabrics", such as the super 110s at 260gr, as they are often too warm in the summer in Scandinavia, and way too cold the rest of the year. Fresco is much better for the short summer, and usually not too expensive. I think it makes sense to spend more the fabric on a suit for 3 seasons either way.

 

[badbeat808]

The 110s will be slightly more durable in my experience.

Not that you asked, but my personal preference is super 110s-120s at 320gr to 370gr for worsteds. They last longer, wrinkle less and drape much better. I would honestly stay away from "all-year fabrics", such as the super 110s at 260gr, as they are often too warm in the summer in Scandinavia, and way too cold the rest of the year. Fresco is much better for the short summer, and usually not too expensive. I think it makes sense to spend more the fabric on a suit for 3 seasons either way.

Okay, thanks.

3 seasons is also fine for me. I asked them if they had like super 100-110 in the 300+ gram range, but it was about budget. They do have this one (https://mond.dk/da/produkt/dark-navy-heavy-hopsack/) which is merino with worsted ("Merino Med Kamgarn"). It's hopsack though, which I believe is worse than twill, but I could be wrong. Do you think that would be better than the 110S?

 

[A-Lawson]

Okay, thanks.

3 seasons is also fine for me. I asked them if they had like super 100-110 in the 300+ gram range, but it was about budget. They do have this one (https://mond.dk/da/produkt/dark-navy-heavy-hopsack/) which is merino with worsted ("Merino Med Kamgarn"). It's hopsack though, which I believe is worse than twill, but I could be wrong. Do you think that would be better than the 110S?

I would personally pick birdseye over hopsack for business, but in general I can't tell you if twill is more durable than hopsack or the other way around. It will also depend on the weight and twist, among other things. Hopsack and birdseye tends to be more breathable than twill, if that is something you would prefer.

The hopsack would seem more durable based on the information on the site compared to the 110s, though, yes.

 

[badbeat808]

I would personally pick birdseye over hopsack for business, but in general I can't tell you if twill is more durable than hopsack or the other way around. It will also depend on the weight and twist, among other things. Hopsack and birdseye tends to be more breathable than twill, if that is something you would prefer.

The hopsack would seem more durable based on the information on the site compared to the 110s, though, yes.

Just to be sure: More breathable isn't necessarily a good thing? Considering I live in scandinavian and want a suit for 3 seasons, wouldn't a less breathable suit probably be better, as I assume it would be warmer?

 

[A-Lawson]

Just to be sure: More breathable isn't necessarily a good thing? Considering I live in scandinavian and want a suit for 3 seasons, wouldn't a less breathable suit probably be better, as I assume it would be warmer?

Breathability doesn't transfer to loss of warmth by 1 to 1. Breathability is first and foremost an insurance that moisture will not be trapped. Poor breathability at the extremes will make you sweat more and make you cold in the long-run, for example, such as with polyester and other synthetic fabrics.

I can't really give you an exact answer to something so intricate, as it varies so much between fabrics, but I wouldn't put too much weight on it, as wool is great for breathability and insulation in general. You get hopsack in everything from light linen to heavy flannel, just as with twill.

 

[badbeat808]

Breathability doesn't transfer to loss of warmth by 1 to 1. Breathability is first and foremost an insurance that moisture will not be trapped. Poor breathability at the extremes will make you sweat more and make you cold in the long-run, for example, such as with polyester and other synthetic fabrics.

I can't really give you an exact answer to something so intricate, as it varies so much between fabrics, but I wouldn't put too much weight on it, as wool is great for breathability and insulation in general. You get hopsack in everything from light linen to heavy flannel, just as with twill.

Thanks.

So just to be sure: So when you talk about under 300 grams being too light, is that for indoor wear or outdoor wear? Because currently I'm just wearing a shirt indoor and it's not too cold for me. I do put on a coat/winter jacket when going outside, and that's also not too cold for me.

 

[A-Lawson]

Thanks.

So just to be sure: So when you talk about under 300 grams being too light, is that for indoor wear or outdoor wear? Because currently I'm just wearing a shirt indoor and it's not too cold for me. I do put on a coat/winter jacket when going outside, and that's also not too cold for me.

Perhaps you're one of those superhumans who are always warm and walk around with t-shirts during the snowy winter.
In that case I have no first-hand experience in what would be optimal for you.

Aside from that, indoor temperatures during winter differs a lot. Living in old houses/apartments vs. new buildings or office buildings, for example, can be very different in temperature.

 

[TomTom]

I would go with the 300g as it drapes better and you can wear it basically for 3 seasons. I worked in Chicago and used to wear 280g cloth in the winter and was fine but it all depends on the overcoat.

 

[TheIronDandy]

Fellow Swede here, so for what it's worth:

I'd go with British made fabrics for my first suit. The climate is simply more like the Swedish, and they generally make heavier fabrics than the Italians. There are obviously exceptions, but if you want a reasonably priced, long lasting fabric you're more likely to find it in a British bunch.

Unless you are prone to overheating, I definitely recommend a heavier fabric; as has been mentioned, they drape better, they usually keep the shape longer (don't need to be pressed as often) and last longer. I find 380-420 gram fabrics to be fine for three seasons - on the really warm days you probably don't want to wear a regular suit anyway.

Just out of curiosity, where are you having the suit made?

 

[badbeat808]

Fellow Swede here, so for what it's worth:

I'd go with British made fabrics for my first suit. The climate is simply more like the Swedish, and they generally make heavier fabrics than the Italians. There are obviously exceptions, but if you want a reasonably priced, long lasting fabric you're more likely to find it in a British bunch.

Unless you are prone to overheating, I definitely recommend a heavier fabric; as has been mentioned, they drape better, they usually keep the shape longer (don't need to be pressed as often) and last longer. I find 380-420 gram fabrics to be fine for three seasons - on the really warm days you probably don't want to wear a regular suit anyway.

Just out of curiosity, where are you having the suit made?

Mond Copenhagen in Copenhagen.

I ended up choosing this and went a bit over budget, but what the hell: https://mond.dk/da/produkt/mxw-navy-heavy-twill

It's only 340 grams, but it's the highest weight they got without ordering directly from the mill.