Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[hitsuji]

Fox 11 oz cavalry twill. I'll post a closeup of the fabric when it gets delivered. It's very lightweight and should wear cooler than other cavalry twills. I'm going to have the pants flared a bit so I can wear cowboy boots and not have the boots pull the fabric. Link to the fabric:

English Eccentrics : Chocolate Brown Newmarket Cavalry Twill FD112

A mini-series of rustic and quintessentially English cloths, taking on shades of brown and green inspired by rural British countryside.Offering a seamless blend of country charm and beauty, these latest qualities comprise of earthy browns and fresh greens, combined with the natural benefits of...

foxflannel.com

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Wanted a pair of trousers in these - how do you find the drape? Unfortunately out of stock now

Does anyone go for a triple patch pocket for the more casual suits? Was thinking about getting it with the Walnut Brown Melange Fox Air.

 

[FlowableFill]

Wanted a pair of trousers in these - how do you find the drape? Unfortunately out of stock now

Does anyone go for a triple patch pocket for the more casual suits? Was thinking about getting it with the Walnut Brown Melange Fox Air.

I had my tailor order the fabric a few days after it was released.

 

[kid1002]

Agreed with you on every point. Also, I thought prologue was mtm, not bespoke. Maybe they even do a mtm fitting. But you can tell it’s not handmade by the lapel roll.

Well that's unfortuante to know. I made it a point to understand from them if their garments are handmade before I had comissioned for this piece.

Here's me in their fitting garment while at their Shanghai trunk show. Again, it was very hard for me to tell all these problems being there when I tried this on. There are pictures as well with sleeves on before they cut them off to check armhole, but I do not have those with me.

Re: lapel roll, it also could be the jacket not holding onto its shape fresh out of a poorly protecting bag/box. Cotton doesn't drape, after all.

 

[clee1982]

handmade or not is not necessarily what means to be bespoke though, I would have found an excuse to go to HK, I just don't trust remote fitting

edit: re-read your post proper, so the initial measurement was remote and you had one fitting, somehow end product was a lot less than the initial try on, not sure what happened then...

edit2: on a side note had a friend who prefer Prologue over anthology partially because the Prologue lapel rolled a lot more, so I guess who knows...

 

[kid1002]

handmade or not is not necessarily what means to be bespoke though, I would have found an excuse to go to HK, I just don't trust remote fitting

edit: re-read your post proper, so the initial measurement was remote and you had one fitting, somehow end product was a lot less than the initial try on, not sure what happened then...

edit2: on a side note had a friend who prefer Prologue over anthology partially because the Prologue lapel rolled a lot more, so I guess who knows...

Exactly. I had one fitting in person. Basted fitting, first fitting... Whatever you call it.

But the end product is surprisingly off to a degree that doesn't usually happen to my custom commissions, bespoke or not.

 

[tim_horton]

Does anyone go for a triple patch pocket for the more casual suits?

I don’t like patch breast pockets at all and I don’t even like patch side pockets on suits, no matter how casual. For me, patch pockets are only on odd jackets… sometimes.

 

[art.of.tailoring]

I need some help from experienced remote-bespoke customers or tailors here...

I had commissioned remotely for this cotton suit earlier this year from The Prologue (Hong Kong). Measurements were provided by me remotely to The Prologue using measurements taken by my usual tailors in Shanghai who had made tens of garments for me.

A basted fitting was done in Shanghai during April when Jerry from The Prologue came here for a mini trunk show. Nothing seemed wrong to me back then, so I basically said "you do your thing" as Jerry did his thing.

Now today I have just received the completed suit. Both jacket and trousers. Trousers fit me wonderfully, but I am finding glaring problems with the jacket.



Main issues I'm feeling
- Collar gap behind the neck
- Lapel gap at the chest
- Movement feels restrictive but the jacket is very roomy, could it be because of the two problems above?
- General balance issues, including right piece/skirt gaping away from my body

I know they cut me a wide-shouldered silouette, so exactly what are the problems and what's just style I can't tell for sure.

The Prologue agreed to take this in for alterations after I shared some basic recordings of me wearing the jacket (including the YouTube clip I'm sharing here) with Jerry.

As I usually just rely on tailors to identify and fix problems in real life, I can't help but feel powerless in remote, finding myself not being able to convey problems I'm seeing/feeling.

Any thoughts?

Hello,
I'm a Tailor. I have many ppl send me pics of fittings along with garments to recut and alter. I've seen your video.

Just some initial thoughts

Your thoughts on the collar appear to be correct. It is too long. It needs to be shortened. Doing this has a 2 pronged effect..
1. It makes the collar hug the neck
2. It will bring the jacket back onto you body which will eliminate the bowing and make it more comfortable.

The jacket is a good size so the bowing isn't from tightness. Rather the jacket is sitting to the outside of your body. You may find yourself wanting to pull the jacket from the lapels closer to your neck or "back onto the body".

 

[kid1002]

The jacket is a good size so the bowing isn't from tightness. Rather the jacket is sitting to the outside of your body. You may find yourself wanting to pull the jacket from the lapels closer to your neck or "back onto the body".

Yes this is exactly what I want to do when I wear this. Thank you for your input!

 

[art.of.tailoring]

Yes this is exactly what I want to do when I wear this. Thank you for your input!

My pleasure! Shortening the collar isn't a "small" alteration. Be sure to take it to an experienced tailor. I have one of these alterations coming up. Perhaps I'll post pics.
I hope it works out for you!

 

[L.deJong]

Another caution for remote fittings I guess.
My tailor (lovadina) doesn't do much during the fitting he just helps me putting it on, then let's me walk to the mirror, let me check the fit and then will look at the back lift the jacket a bit, look at the shoulder and armhole and he is done.

A couple of months later I get the finished jacket and it's always on point. No 30+ minute fittings fiddling with all the details. He just looks at it and just knows if it's correct, probably also looks at the harmony of the whole assemble. The first couple of times this felt very scary, is he actually doing something? Or is the fitting more for me? Now I know better.

Of course I did have some small sleeve length problems, especially in the beginning but that was also partly my fault because I wore different shirts with the wrong sleeve length... Stupid mistake.
And the first couple of commissions he didn't nail the right shoulder, it hangs a little lower than my left one. But that's also fixed now.

Oh and with my second suit (2018) I tried to help him do the fitting.... Big big mistake still my least favourite suit, it just doesn't fit right. Just let the master do his work hahaha. I had to bring it back to him three times, and now for the Fourth time hopefully it's wearable now.

 

[Crispyj]

 

[hitsuji]

Just got back from the tailor to commission a suit this time.

Fox City CharNavy FC17

Classic single breasted with Flap pockets and peak lapel

Wanted to get thoughts about Peak vs Notch Lapels for a “business” style suit. My suitsupply ones had Peaks and I thought they went well but I wonder if notch would be better for this commission? (Although he said it will be changable at first fitting if I decide not to go with it)

 

[tim_horton]

My personal bias is that while peak lapels don't look bad, notch looks better on me, at least on SB suits. Though that may also be do to isolated bad experiences with peak lapels, with the peak not sitting right due to an individual maker.

As is always the case, no one will pay any mind except you... which doesn't make the choice any easier.

Fox City has a nice range of blues. I like FC-9, the Parisian Blue.

 

[hpreston]

Just got back from the tailor to commission a suit this time.

Fox City CharNavy FC17

Classic single breasted with Flap pockets and peak lapel

Wanted to get thoughts about Peak vs Notch Lapels for a “business” style suit. My suitsupply ones had Peaks and I thought they went well but I wonder if notch would be better for this commission? (Although he said it will be changable at first fitting if I decide not to go with it)

Purely my opinion. Peak lapels belong on DB suits and SB (or DB) tuxedos. A single breasted business suit would look better with notch lapels. Again, just my $0.02

 

[Texasmade]

Purely my opinion. Peak lapels belong on DB suits and SB (or DB) tuxedos. A single breasted business suit would look better with notch lapels. Again, just my $0.02

I don't mind peak lapels on SB business suits provided it's a single button. I prefer notch on anything that's a 2 button SB.