I want a Bespoke Suit. Any advice on my journey?

[bantone]

So after selling my Suitsupply suit I've had for over two years I have a gap left in my wardrobe. I need a new suit! I thought about getting another OTR but I have long arms and a short torso which results in me at times getting a longer coat which alters the entire silhouette of the suit or alternatively getting a bad coat arm lengthening of the blazer.

I was thinking about going the MTM route through something like The Knot Standard but I've heard a few folks down their product and the fact that they fuse some of their blazers didn't appeal to me.

Which brought me to my final idea: a Bespoke Suit. I found a local Bespoke tailor where I live, Ross Bennett (http://www.therossbennettcollection.com/) that makes suits for government officials and other folks where I live. I went to his shop and the guy is eccentric! He talked about how a suit is armor for the modern man to face the world. I looked at a few fabrics.

I've been leaning toward some of the Australian and English wools. I will have to decide if I wanna do it. One of my question is that Ross has been talking to me about the Huddersfield fabrics. On average his suits are between $1800 - 2500. A Huddersfield fabric would certainly raise the price of this, but it seems that people here say always go to a well known mill for your fabric. The ones I was also looking at were from Gladson. One I saw there was an Australian Super 120s wool which felt soft to the touch. I now Australian mills are newer. Has anyone tried them?

What I want is a Swiss Army Knife navy suit. Something understated but when you look at it you can tell that it's quality in its detailing. I don't really need suiting in my field but I need to put one back into my wardrobe. I already know what I want (two vents, more of an English Cut, side tabs, etc).

Any other thoughts and tips before I spend $2000 - 3000 on a new suit?

 

[moltoelegante]

Do you know which lapel type and width? Gorge height? SB or DB? Shoulder construction? Pocket type and placement? Dart placement? Button hole type and placement? If not, probably best to do some research until you are clear in your mind about most of these details otherwise the first session with your tailor could be overwhelming.

As for the fabric, choosing the right fabric type, weight, color and design for your taste and the intended use is probably more important than choosing a particular producer (assuming you stick to trusted producers).

 

[bantone]

Do you know which lapel type and width? Gorge height? SB or DB? Shoulder construction? Pocket type and placement? Dart placement? Button hole type and placement? If not, probably best to do some research until you are clear in your mind about most of these details otherwise the first session with your tailor could be overwhelming.

As for the fabric, choosing the right fabric type, weight, color and design for your taste and the intended use is probably more important than choosing a particular producer (assuming you stick to trusted producers).

To answer your questions:
- Notch Lapel (1" - 2", not sure - this is something I will be discussing more with my tailor)
- Gorge Height - Honestly first time me hearing this!
- Single Breasted Suit
- Shoulder - Minimum to no padding. I'm leaning towards no padding. I'm in shape so I don't think I need any padding really. High Armholes
- Pocket Type - Flap Pocket
- Two button suit, functioning buttons, horn.
- Three buttons for my suit jacket sleeves.
- Neutral button placement
- English Vents meaning Two Vents
- Side tabs for my pants.

I think I have a good idea. Saturday going to the tailor was a bit overwhelming but I had some knowledge. I think the overwhelming part was the plethora of fabrics that were available.

Thanks for your help!