Custom suit and color/fabric choices

[Paladin732]

Hi!

My husband and I have decided to venture and purchase custom suits. I can never find suits off the rack even close to my size (34S), and while investigating custom, found its not that much different vs buying off the rack.

We found a place called Enzo Custom that seems to have relatively cheap prices I think(There is a suit shop near us that wanted 2x for the same suit with the same fabrics they do).

My question:

We are between a few different finishes:

My husband went with this:

He went with the light Loro Piana fabric here with that purple liner. The fabric is a super 200s. Cost was 2K for the jacket and we did a nice pair of trousers for $390 (Enzo Sartori Super 150s grey solid)

I am between the following two:

Fabric on the left is 85% super 100s worsted wool/15% kid mohair (Holland and Sherry), and the one on the right is an additional pair of linen pants beyond the ones that will come with the suit.
With the suit, currently I have it doing light blue pick stitching, light blue buttons and light blue button fabric. I believe I went without button holes or belt straps on the suit pants. Shirt is a baby blue stripe shirt.. This was 2K for the suit itself (plus $150 for the additional linen pants on the right in the photo)

The other option I have is this:

I really like both the blue and purple here. I would lean a little more towards the purple, but the blue is quite pretty also.
These are about $500 more for the material vs the one I already went with.

My questions:

• Should I go with the silk/cashmere? Or the Kid Mohair/Worsted Wool? Is there a huge downside or upside aside from design and price? Maybe with fit or upkeep?
  • There was a Loro Piana "Mare" print I liked quite a bit also, was a few hundred $$$ cheaper and the one on the left here (40% cotton, 37% wool, 23% silk):
  • 
• Are the prices I have here good?
• Does polyester vs cupro lining make a difference?
• Another option I'm toying with is getting the blue jacket as a sportscoat instead later if the initial suit comes out well.
• Any reason I can't wear the suit jacket as a blazer when I'm dressing down a bit?

 

[breakaway01]

What do you intend to use the suit for? Purely casual social events or do you plan to wear it for work, interviews, weddings, etc? Do you already own a plain navy or grey suit?

I ask because often people who are embarking on their first custom tailored garment choose fairly loud/flamboyant fabrics and/or styling choices. They seem much more exciting and interesting than a boring sober color. But these choices are inherently much less versatile in terms of the range of events you can wear them to, and also because such garments are easily remembered by friends and acquaintances. If you wear that suit more than a couple of times a month, people will remember.

Please do not go with contrasting stitching and buttonhole colors. It never looks good.

What color is the H&S wool/mohair fabric? Is it purple?

 

[breakaway01]

Definitely go with cupro lining over a poly lining. Cupro will breathe better.

 

[Paladin732]

What do you intend to use the suit for? Purely casual social events or do you plan to wear it for work, interviews, weddings, etc? Do you already own a plain navy or grey suit?

I ask because often people who are embarking on their first custom tailored garment choose fairly loud/flamboyant fabrics and/or styling choices. They seem much more exciting and interesting than a boring sober color. But these choices are inherently much less versatile in terms of the range of events you can wear them to, and also because such garments are easily remembered by friends and acquaintances. If you wear that suit more than a couple of times a month, people will remember.

Please do not go with contrasting stitching and buttonhole colors. It never looks good.

What color is the H&S wool/mohair fabric? Is it purple?

Yes it’s purple. The contrasting is a light blue.
It’s the purple in the photo I have there.

This will be for more casual/social settings

 

[breakaway01]

My advice FWIW—

If you’re never going to wear it to more formal kinds of events then of course you have more flexibility in fabric choice. I still personally wouldn’t pick any of these fabrics but it’s your suit, not mine. I might pick a solid light grey, grey birdseye or glen check, navy or light navy (solid, glen check, birdseye, or nailhead) for instance.

Whatever you pick, please do not choose contrasting stiching.

 

[maxalex]

It sounds like this company, a small chain, is doing MTM. That involves using block patterns and making some adjustments based on your measurements. It’s not true bespoke, where the whole pattern is cut directly to your measurements. That costs more, sometimes a lot more depending on the skill and reputation of the tailor. Here in Rome I pay €3.000 for a bespoke jacket. Trousers might be another €1.000. So $4,300 for a suit. There are places that charge triple that in Florence, Paris and London.

MTM is, as you can see, cheaper than bespoke but more than OTR. The value depends on the workmanship. Some MTM will border on the fit and quality of bespoke; some will be no better, or possibly worse, than OTR.

Your company is using expensive fabrics from name brand Italian and English mills (mainly, it seems, high-twist worsteds which are lighter) so that’s a plus. The fit remains to be seen.

My first bespoke clothes were bright plaids and colorful stubby silks with fantasy linings. I don’t regret them at all, but I can’t wear them every day; my second round of bespoke was more somber navy and gray suits (albeit with bright paisley linings). At this point I have a good mix of classic and fun, even though I built the wardrobe backwards.