Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Fad P]

This I know - it's Loro Piana.

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Thank you!

 

[ppk]

@dieworkwear has a new podcast on Patreon where he interviews Virgil Viret, Managing Director of Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers - a pretty well-known fabric retailer in Paris.

 

[Fad P]

Okay - so another question for you. I’m thinking about having a black (yes, black) DB jacket made for the summer. Something I can wear quite casually. A jacket I don’t have to be so precious about and that I can wear for both summer evening drinks and throw on when I go out to get my morning coffee.
I was thinking of pure linen (but who makes the best black linen), or peached linen, or a silk, wool, linen mix. But any suggestion would be very welcome. Thank you.

 

[ericgereghty]

Y'all have preferred mohairs for odd trousers? Weight is prioritized, for whatever it's worth.

 

[ZRH1]

Okay - so another question for you. I’m thinking about having a black (yes, black) DB jacket made for the summer. Something I can wear quite casually. A jacket I don’t have to be so precious about and that I can wear for both summer evening drinks and throw on when I go out to get my morning coffee.
I was thinking of pure linen (but who makes the best black linen), or peached linen, or a silk, wool, linen mix. But any suggestion would be very welcome. Thank you.

I am having Dugdale Lisburn made and prefer it to my usual, formal, WBill choice. The black looks more charcoal.

 

[tim_horton]

Y'all have preferred mohairs for odd trousers? Weight is prioritized, for whatever it's worth.

I’ve never used mohair for odd trousers, just suits.

I like Dugdale’s; thought H&S was too flimsy (though it may have changed); and Loro Piana had a fantastic book of mohair/New Zealand wool blend whose name escapes me.

I think 10 oz. is a good weight, give or take an ounce.

 

[ericgereghty]

I’ve never used mohair for odd trousers, just suits.

I like Dugdale’s; thought H&S was too flimsy (though it may have changed); and Loro Piana had a fantastic book of mohair/New Zealand wool blend whose name escapes me.

I think 10 oz. is a good weight, give or take an ounce.

It does indeed seem "wrong" for trousers, but I love the feel/enhanced resistance to wrinkling, even relative to high twists.

 

[CLH03]

It does indeed seem "wrong" for trousers, but I love the feel/enhanced resistance to wrinkling, even relative to high twists.

Did you ever try the Minnis mohair/Fresco? I seem to remember you asking about that cloth.

 

[The Chai]

Y'all have preferred mohairs for odd trousers? Weight is prioritized, for whatever it's worth.

Mohair fresco or the 2/3 ply stuff from Halstead. Reason I like these 2 is the rugged look from the weave the the two tone effect which lends itself to more "casual" formalness. I find the other mohairs too refined for odd trousers.

 

[DorianGreen]

Maison Hellard Rue d'Uzès 3103, 360g, French linen woven in Italy. A lovely shade of green, as I see.

Here on an Anthology jacket.

 

[marchello]

I just bought a navy blue linen suit made out of Spence Bryson 275gsm linen. While the vendor doesn’t say what bunch the fabric is coming from I’m very certain is Tyrone. I believe it’s not sanforized.

Did I make a mistake here? I understand unsanforized linen will not only shrink a lot but also fade in color.

 

[kid1002]

I just bought a navy blue linen suit made out of Spence Bryson 275gsm linen. While the vendor doesn’t say what bunch the fabric is coming from I’m very certain is Tyrone. I believe it’s not sanforized.

Did I make a mistake here? I understand unsanforized linen will not only shrink a lot but also fade in color.

I don't think it's mistake. A part of the linen charm lies within its imperfections. Here's mine in Huddersfield Cloth 280g Irish Linen. This should be very similar to what you'll be getting.



I actually look forward to this fading and aging with me as I wear it for years to come...

 

[CLH03]

I just bought a navy blue linen suit made out of Spence Bryson 275gsm linen. While the vendor doesn’t say what bunch the fabric is coming from I’m very certain is Tyrone. I believe it’s not sanforized.

Did I make a mistake here? I understand unsanforized linen will not only shrink a lot but also fade in color.

I would go heavier than that… that’s going to wrinkle heavily

 

[Concordia]

Not sure how unsanforized deals with dry cleaning. You might be able to jump the gun on that problem by doing some rounds through the wash. But as a point of comparison, I get the Murrays Nantucket red cloth, and the original quality of that is very old-fashioned. Turns yellow if you dry clean it, and seems to keep shrinking no matter how much it has been abused in the past.

 

[zr3rs]

275 g per square meter is 390 g per meter length, a fairly typical weight for linen suiting.