Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[kid1002]

Hold up. What do you know, I actually found it at a dealer's place...

Thanks, styleforum?

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Where did you find it?

 

[DorianGreen]

I love silk suits and jackets.

I had a jacket made of 100% silk from Loro Piana's 'Mare' bunch in champagne. It's totally not breathable and definitely an acquired taste, but I love it regardless how little I get to wear it.

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Very nice jacket in a great looking cloth. Curious to hear how it does perform (beyond not breathable) in comparison with pure linen or a common wool/silk/linen blend.

 

[kid1002]

Where did you find it?

Hi. Unfortuantely it's a piece of deadstock leftover that Suitsupply had ordered from Zegna 5 years ago.

It's more matte-ish forest-y green than brown for sure. Here are some additional pictures of it from my old suit.

 

[kid1002]

Very nice jacket in a great looking cloth. Curious to hear how it does perform (beyond not breathable) in comparison with pure linen or a common wool/silk/linen blend.

Imbeccable drape that would be closer to wool/silk/linen blends than pure linen. Silk also creases less than pure linen but this would also be dependent on the weave and weight (see above my creased olive suit in 260g Novara silk).

 

[jj02138]

Hello everyone. I am a newcomer to bespoke tailoring and recently commissioned a Florentine style jacket. I wanted a navy as a first commission, with a PoW pattern. I really like the dry feel, crisp feel of Fresco type cloths, and ended up settling on this Drapers Ascot 4-ply fabric:

Prince of Wales fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18042

4-ply blue fabric (cod. 18042) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

It does seem though that the general consensus on this forum is that this is a suiting cloth and not that well matched for a standalone jacket, and it does seem more common to use this bunch for suits. Did I make a mistake? Is there a different navy PoW fabric that would have been better suited for this? Thanks!

 

[kid1002]

Hello everyone. I am a newcomer to bespoke tailoring and recently commissioned a Florentine style jacket. I wanted a navy as a first commission, with a PoW pattern. I really like the dry feel, crisp feel of Fresco type cloths, and ended up settling on this Drapers Ascot 4-ply fabric:

Prince of Wales fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18042

4-ply blue fabric (cod. 18042) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

It does seem though that the general consensus on this forum is that this is a suiting cloth and not that well matched for a standalone jacket, and it does seem more common to use this bunch for suits. Did I make a mistake? Is there a different navy PoW fabric that would have been better suited for this? Thanks!

Yes but it's not too late. Just get a matching pair of trousers commissioned and you'll be fine.

 

[tim_horton]

I e-mailed Harrison's and unfortunately, Smith Woolens Blue Riband has been discontinued.

They recommended Harrison's Regency as an equivalent.

 

[DorianGreen]

Hello everyone. I am a newcomer to bespoke tailoring and recently commissioned a Florentine style jacket. I wanted a navy as a first commission, with a PoW pattern. I really like the dry feel, crisp feel of Fresco type cloths, and ended up settling on this Drapers Ascot 4-ply fabric:

Prince of Wales fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18042

4-ply blue fabric (cod. 18042) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

It does seem though that the general consensus on this forum is that this is a suiting cloth and not that well matched for a standalone jacket, and it does seem more common to use this bunch for suits. Did I make a mistake? Is there a different navy PoW fabric that would have been better suited for this? Thanks!

As described by the seller it's a suiting cloth, but you can also wear your jacket with odd trousers, it won't look bad, or as an orphaned piece, in my opinion.

As I see, the finer the cloth, the more formal and more suitable for suits.
A thicker and more textured fabric would be better for your purpose.

 

[jj02138]

Yes but it's not too late. Just get a matching pair of trousers commissioned and you'll be fine.

Thanks. I have contemplated that. But I don't really wear suits, so in the end it would be mostly the jacket that would be worn separately. So would that just look bad? It's probably not too late to switch to a different cloth.

 

[Concordia]

Pat

Hello everyone. I am a newcomer to bespoke tailoring and recently commissioned a Florentine style jacket. I wanted a navy as a first commission, with a PoW pattern. I really like the dry feel, crisp feel of Fresco type cloths, and ended up settling on this Drapers Ascot 4-ply fabric:

Prince of Wales fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 18042

4-ply blue fabric (cod. 18042) from the Ascot two, four and six ply bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

It does seem though that the general consensus on this forum is that this is a suiting cloth and not that well matched for a standalone jacket, and it does seem more common to use this bunch for suits. Did I make a mistake? Is there a different navy PoW fabric that would have been better suited for this? Thanks!

Patch pockets and a pair of trousers and you will be able to go both ways. Alden at LL did one in the Brisa quality that came out very well in his jacket.

 

[hitsuji]

I’ve been able to get 2 bunches of Harrisons Universal Flannel (2.16m and 1.97m) for about £150 - is that a somewhat reasonable price for it?

 

[camez_]

I’ve been able to get 2 bunches of Harrisons Universal Flannel (2.16m and 1.97m) for about £150 - is that a somewhat reasonable price for it?

more than reasonable
take it

 

[CLH03]

I’ve been able to get 2 bunches of Harrisons Universal Flannel (2.16m and 1.97m) for about £150 - is that a somewhat reasonable price for it?

That’s pretty fair pricing

 

[jonathanS]

I’ve been able to get 2 bunches of Harrisons Universal Flannel (2.16m and 1.97m) for about £150 - is that a somewhat reasonable price for it?

150£ for both lengths, correct?

Imo, that’s more than fair / reasonable. That’s a good price.

As long as you like the fabric