The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

[Shirtmaven]



When I get the shirting in hand, I'll try to do this. Why do you want to see it?

what is on the roll looks different then what i have been given in the past.
it also could be the color of the photo on my monitor

 

[TheFoo]



what is on the roll looks different then what i have been given in the past.
it also could be the color of the photo on my monitor

It could very well be the coloring on screen. Otherwise, how does it look different to you?

 

[A Y]

That picture looks like mine too, down to the little stray bits of thread, variegation, and fuzz.

 

[poorsod]

The color saturation looks off but the texture is correct.

 

[TheFoo]

We'll see what the shirting looks like when I get it, but I'm thinking that it is not quite so vivid as in the photo.

 

[Kaplan]

Nearly 4 years old thread on SG chambray (w/ pics) is here.

More here.

As for the OneShirt, here's what I would do:

Light blue SG chambray (would have to see it i person first) or what ever not too luxe end-on-end that had the right feel/colour

Medium spread collar, as it more often looks better than a BD with coat and tie (disclamer: not an americun) but no fancy double button collar like I believe you got on your BB BDs. IIRC the collar on your AMs looked nice, so probably just copy those.

Rounded barrel cuffs. As it sounds like you're not yet ready for the superior, understated simplicity of these I'm sure you'll go ahead with your single or double cuffs. But luckily these shirts wont last forever, so maybe you'll have seen the light on the next time around

Gauntlet button? Definitely, as shirts look cheap without them. And you don't have to use it. Very much a case of 'it's better to have and not need, than to need and not have'. If you *never* will wear these shirts without a coat I guess it really doesn't matter, but if you want to be able to comfortably roll up your sleeves (and not have a big gaping gauntlet when you don't), they have their place.

Placket or not? Doesn't matter much as it'll be covered by the tie, but for this kind of shirt I guess I too would go wíthout.

Agree on no pleats, but would try to see if I could get a satisfactory fit without darts.

 

[TheFoo]

I think just the opposite of gauntlet buttons. They are on every single RTW French cuff shirt I've ever seen. The only way to go without seems to be bespoke, with gauntlets short enough they won't gape open. I like the more focused, simple approach. I think it adds up to being more elegant.

 

[jrd617]

Here are Vox's SG chambray fabric "popover" shirts. Nice looking fabric

 

[jrd617]



Am I the only one who doesn't care about what Foo decides for his OneShirt



Not because I don't love and care about you foofy but because we already know that you already have your mind made up and will vehemently knock down any suggestions anyway, not that I would suggest anything because I don't really care what you decide to begin with. Its a vicious circle.

I laughed hard.

 

[TheFoo]

I'm hoping the actual chambray I get is closer to that cloudy, greyish blue than the more saturated blue in the photo I posted. We'll see.

 

[Kaplan]



I think just the opposite of gauntlet buttons. They are on every single RTW French cuff shirt I've ever seen. The only way to go without seems to be bespoke, with gauntlets short enough they won't gape open. I like the more focused, simple approach. I think it adds up to being more elegant.

The only shirt of mine I can recall without a gauntlet button is a bespoke one, and I remember feeling that something was missing, so I got 'em on the following orders. Having short gauntlets will just make it really hard to roll up your sleeves past the elbow (as you should, if you've started rolling), if either the sleeves are fairly trim or if you have anything besides the slimmest of arms. I have RTW shirts *with* gauntlet buttons that are hard to roll, unbuttoned.

Also, leaving the buttons open are a good deal less sprezzaturally conspicious than doing the same with the buttons on a BD collar ;-)

Here are Vox's SG chambray fabric "popover" shirts. Nice looking fabric

This was the pic I was googling for that lead me to the two threads linked above. I remember when seeing Mina that she mentioned this one guy from the US that had asked if she could do a specific type of shirts and had then presented her with a stack of cloth for the purpose

 

[Kei-bon]



Having short gauntlets will just make it really hard to roll up your sleeves past the elbow (as you should, if you've started rolling)

is there a rationale for this bold statement? i've always used a "two and two thirds" roll: fold the whole cuff back, fold it again, and then once more, but not the whole width of the cuff, bringing it to just below the elbow. I don't think i want to go flashing my tired looking elbows--or looking at anyone else's ...

Anyway, I'm in the pro-gauntlet-button camp. I've never found them irritating in any way, and i pray i won't start to find them so after reading this thread.

 

[msulinski]

I don't really roll up my dress shirt sleeves anyway, so I don't care about gauntlet length. I do roll casual shirts, but then I don't care about a gauntlet button on those, or rather, I don't care about exposing what the gauntlet button covers up.

 

[Kaplan]



is there a rationale for this bold statement?

Not to be taken too seriously, just an opinion

Spoiler: but also this

;-)

 

[NORE]



Here are Vox's SG chambray fabric "popover" shirts.

When a member posts another members pics, that just seems wrong for a variety of reasons. Just sayin'