The best Oxford shirt

[Harwid]

Thank you- i haven't seen much evidence to suggest an OCBD shouldn't have a pocket, but perhaps I'm wrong?

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

 

[multiccy-csa]

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

Care to expand? Not sure what the day and age has to do with a timeless look.

 

[billsmith]

The Thom Browne ones in white or blue are solid contenders. Whether or not you like the tricolor grosgrain inner plackets is a matter of personal taste.

 

[gimpwiz]

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

I feel like we're about the re-hash the whole "suits are dead" thing here.

Some people like button-down collars, and they're not broadly considered out-of-style or unfashionable, so why not? The context of what they convey is largely the same as it was for the past number of decades, and that fits a lot of folk's daily or occasional needs and wants.

 

[sargeinaz]

Thought I'd provide an example of the collars from Drake's/Kamakura and how they compare to a vintage Brooks OCBD I have.

Vintage Brooks Brothers (dated late 50s/early 60s re: Sean from Crowley Vintage):
View attachment 1990743

Drake's:
View attachment 1990745

Kamakura Vintage Ivy:
View attachment 1990749

Pretty cool to see all 3. I think the Drakes and Brooks are nicer, but that’s probably only because they’re clearly longer than Kamakura which is still nice as well.

 

[sargeinaz]

It's just a much nicer fabric. Heavier with a silky hand.

Hmmmm if it’s heavier I’ll give it a shot. They also released some new ones with a much fuller fit, but the thickness of the fabric is probably the same as the sport, which isn’t thick/heavy.

 

[yorkshire pud]

Greetings all. Could you please give your views on the optimal blue Oxford shirt, at a reasonable price? i have oscillated between Gitman and Polo Ralph Lauren for years, and neither a quite right. The Gitman is close, but i find they quickly become scruffy after a few washes, the box plate is really difficult to iron flat, and (this one is a bit geeky) there's a large gap between the stitching and the edge of the seam (on the cuffs/sleeves, collar and box plate).... whereas the Lauren's collar never seems to to sit open quite right, and the absence of a breast pocket isn't great.
Simon Crompton's Permanent Style example looks good (and in some good alternative colours too), although it is reassuringly expensive.
How about William Crabtree?
Brooks Brother's i guess are perhaps the original (or close to) but they're very difficult to locate in the UK.
I would appreciate member's thoughts.

I live in the UK, I have a couple of PRL Oxfords but I much prefer the slim fit Poplin Cotton version, it just drapes better is cooler, more comfortable and washes better, especially as the temperature appears to be improving/deteriorating (depending on your point of view) year on year.

I don't care for pockets and never wear a tie with a buttoned collar

I do like Gitman Vintage camp Collar shirts in summertime.

My vote is dump Oxford Cloth altogether and go with something else, maybe try Flannel in the winter 🙂

 

[multiccy-csa]

Thank you all for the suggestions.
I've gone for Drakes, and am pretty happy with the cloth and the shape of the neck opening.
I also went for a William Crabtree, which opens and drapes well, but the cloth is far less comfortable, so might sell this one.
But my question now is... how much do they shrink?
I seem to recall buying some Gitman in the past which started out the right size, but now seem far too small. Should i be buying a little larger and expected a decent amount of shrinkage? or it's less than a size?

 

[gimpwiz]

maybe try Flannel

Flannel is super underrated, love my flannel shirts.

 

[jeremygo]

Thank you all for the suggestions.
I've gone for Drakes, and am pretty happy with the cloth and the shape of the neck opening.
I also went for a William Crabtree, which opens and drapes well, but the cloth is far less comfortable, so might sell this one.
But my question now is... how much do they shrink?
I seem to recall buying some Gitman in the past which started out the right size, but now seem far too small. Should i be buying a little larger and expected a decent amount of shrinkage? or it's less than a size?

Nice! Yeah the Drake’s shirts are beautiful - will definitely be buying some new ones myself when the archive sale runs.

In my experience, if you wash cold/hang dry, the Drake’s shirts will not noticeably shrink.

 

[Johnny80]

But my question now is... how much do they shrink?

it shouldnt shrink...at 20-30C, Kiton CA Barba never got me down and i dont think Drake's shirt should be any different

 

[Funcheese]

I just don’t understand wearing a Button Down collar in this day and age.

Jeff

What is this "day and age" you speak of?

 

[Club Soda]

Drake's is the best overall right now, I wear them daily for work with a suit and tie. $275 is a solid price point for a long term staple, and it's actually one of their lowest priced long sleeves. The cloth feels great, softens nicely each wash and all the details, construction etc. are great. I find they shrink considerably though. The sleeves on mine are perfect when new or freshly pressed but the yoke and sleeves shrink up and I don't get as much cuff peaking out of my jacket sleeve.

Great color options too. I like the regular blue for the stripe and ice blue for solid, it's nice to have that choice for blue, pink, and green if you want a dark Brooks-ish desaturation or the more pastel color.

Very good collar.

GV makes a great shirt too that can be made MTO and I will alway stand by Polo as one of the best ocbds for casual wear.

 

[JLibourel]

Since I discovered Mercer some years back, he has been the source of all my good shirts. Nuff said!

 

[Buggy]

I recently picked up two Drakes oxfords and I’m finding the shoulders to be uncomfortably narrow. They sit at least half inch higher up my shoulder on each side compared to Borrelli, JPress, or Brooks.

I wanted to like them — the hand on the fabric is soft and incredible and the collar is lovely. The body and sleeves were a nice cut —not too slim not too billowy. Unfortunately, the shoulders are cramped and uncomfortable and with a jacket off, I look like I’m wearing a much too slim shirt from 2010. I’m 6ft ~160 so not a large frame either. Don’t know how you all fit into these.

if there was something in the ~200 range with the hand and collar of drakes with wider shoulders I’d be all over it.