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R.I.P. - Louis Boston to Close after 85 Years

NorCal_1

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so many great memories in the 80's and 90's of Louis.....


Louis Boston to close after more than 85 years



Louis Boston will close its location on the South Boston waterfront in July.

By Taryn Luna JANUARY 09, 2015
Boston Globe

In its prime, Louis Boston was the clothing store that politicians like Ted Kennedy and Kevin White trusted to dress them in three-piece tailored suits made of fine fabrics imported from Italy.

Its buyers had a knack for finding young designers, such as Giorgio Armani, before they became household names. The longtime and late owner, Murray Pearlstein, hired the now famous designer Joseph Abboud as a salesman when he was 18.

The high-end store became a Boston institution, surviving 86 years in a retail industry in which three decades is considered an extraordinary lifetime. But all things must eventually come to an end: Louis, as the store is known now, is slated to close in July.

“That’s unbelievable. It’s overwhelming to me,” Abboud said when he learned of the closing. “It was the foundation of everything that has ever happened to me. Louis in its day was legendary.”

The store’s closing follows its move in 2010 from its longtime home in the Back Bay to Fan Pier. Debi Greenberg, Pearlstein’s daughter and owner of the store, said Fan Pier developer Joseph F. Fallon plans to build on the store’s site and offered to relocate Louis to 22 Liberty, a 111-unit luxury condominium building next door. But at age 59, Greenberg said she didn’t want to commit to a long-term lease and instead elected to retire.

No other family members were able to carry on the retail tradition, which began at a Roxbury pawn shop owned by Greenberg’s great-grandfather. A spokeswoman for Fallon declined to comment.

“There are things that I have been wanting to do that I have never had the time to do,” Greenberg said. “With retail you cannot do it half way. You have to be here, and you have to be involved. I’ve been working for a long time. I don’t really want to be working at 70.”

Debi Greenberg said she was not interested in a new long-term lease.
JOHN TLUMACKI/GLOBE STAFF/FILE 2010

Debi Greenberg said she was not interested in a new long-term lease.

Louis is widely credited by analysts with pioneering Boston’s luxury retail market, although it grew from humble beginnings.

Greenberg said her great-grandfather, the pawn shop owner Louis Pearlstein, refurbished used clothing from immigrants and resold it. Her grandfather, Saul Pearlstein, and great-uncle later opened a high end store, Louis, in 1929 to exclusively sell top-of-the-line men’s clothing.

Murray Pearlstein took over in 1950 and led the store through what many in the industry consider to be it’s heyday, from the late ’60s through the ’80s. Abboud said the store was among the top five retailers in the country then.

Pearlstein was one of the first men’s retailers in the United States to travel to Europe and import clothing. Abboud began working for him in 1968 and said they often went to Italy to find high-quality fabrics and design clothing that would later appear in the store.

He said Pearlstein took chances on new designers, a risk that put the store on the cutting edge of fashion and drew customers from all over the world.

“He had creative courage,” Abboud said. “The store was so well curated that you would see the newest and most wearable and intelligent product mix. It was displayed beautifully. The environment was rich and luxurious. The clothing was impeccable.”

The Louis store moved to a new development on the Fan Pier in 2010.
BARRY CHIN/GLOBE STAFF

The Louis store moved to a new development on the Fan Pier in 2010.

Gary Drinkwater, the owner of the upscale menswear store Drinkwater’s Cambridge, also got his start at Louis. He said Pearlstein often met with Italian designers and insisted that they adjust suit sizes to fit American men.

“He was a visionary who saw a bright light in some creative person who had something that he thought was real,” Drinkwater said. “He put a face on that person.”

But not all of the store’s risks paid off.

At its peak, Louis had stores in Boston, Chestnut Hill, and New York. Pearlstein opened the New York store in 1989 and closed in 1991, facing stiff competition from established New York merchants such as Barneys and Bergdorf, high rents, and tight margins, said Michael Tesler, a retail professor at Bentley University in Waltham. The Chestnut Hill store, which opened in 1973, also closed in 1991.

Greenberg made her own gamble in 2010 when she moved the store from expensive Newbury Street to less costly space on the waterfront and bet that Louis would become a destination in an up-and-coming area. Critics said the store would never receive enough foot traffic to survive.

Greenberg said she moved to the waterfront to help the store connect with the modern consumer in an area that has since become populated by young people. The store also expanded to offer more lifestyle goods, such as home décor.

Greenberg said her gamble was paying off as the store enjoyed steady year-over-year sales growth. But Tesler said the store lost something as it adapted to changing tastes: The local politician and business executive types that had been loyal customers for decades.

“The merchandise isn’t for them now. That’s not who [the shoppers] are,” Tesler said. “It had to evolve in some ways and she did her best.”
 

NorCal_1

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for those who don't know the significance of Louis and what the owner did to bring Italian menswear designers to America, here is some history....


Murray Pearlstein; transformed Louis Boston into high fashion retailer

Murray Pearlstein was known for his fashion acumen and personality.
Paul Benoit for the Boston Globe
By Christopher Muther
Globe Staff | 04.23.13 | 12:00 AM
Murray Pearlstein, the Boston retailer who transformed Louis Boston from a haberdashery and suit shop to an internationally known high-fashion boutique, died at his home in Santa Fe Sunday. He was 84. The cause of death was complications of cancer, said his son, Steven Pearlstein.
Mr. Pearlstein is credited with pushing Boston’s sartorial boundaries and introducing shoppers to some of the most sought-after fashion lines from designers the world over. But he also appreciated tastemakers closer to home, launching the career of well-known Boston designer Joseph Abboud.
In the late 1980s, Mr. Pearlstein owned multiple Louis locations, including a store on 57th Street in Manhattan. Three Boston-area locations were consolidated into the 40,000-square-foot former Museum of Natural History building at the corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets in 1990.
Mr. Pearlstein designed his own line of clothing for the stores and worked with top European fabric mills to design suits that could be found nowhere else. His daughter, Debi Greenberg, bought the business from him in 2003.
“He was one of the single biggest influences on my professional life,” said Abboud, who worked for Mr. Pearlstein from 1968 to 1980. “I would not be in the place I am today if it wasn’t for him. He was more like a dad to me than just a boss.”
Abboud was 17 years old and standing on Boylston street the first time he saw Pearlstein, nattily attired in a wool melton trench coat and a Pierre Cardin hat — and yelling at the window dressers. Abboud was mesmerized and decided he wanted to be as cool as the sharply dressed man who he thought resembled Steve McQueen.
“He was regarded as one of the most influential trend-
setters in the clothing industry,” said interior designer Frank Roop, who worked with Mr. Pearlstein from 1986 to 1999. “Most retailers simply present clothing they hope will sell. He was completely unique in the industry. His work was a labor of love.”
Mr. Pearlstein was instrumental in the evolution of Louis Boston, which traces its roots to a Roxbury pawn shop started by his grandfather at the turn of the last century.
Louis Pearlstein would buy suits from customers and resell them. Pearlstein’s father, Saul, and uncle Nathan turned the pawn shop into a men’s suit shop in 1929, selling American-made suits to a largely business clientele.
By 1950, Saul’s son Murray began working at the store with other family members, which by then was selling high-end, American-made clothing such as Hickey Freeman suits and Cavanagh hats.
But a dramatic shift for the retailer began when Mr. Pearlstein began bringing European merchandise into the mix, especially high quality, off-the-rack men’s suits.
“He went to Italy in the 1960s and worked with people like [Italian designer] Luciano Barbera to develop suits that would hang on the rack that men could buy immediately, as opposed to a made-to-measure garment,” said Greenberg. “That was a big transformation, and he was definitely part of that.”
He was not only working with fabric mills and designers to create suits exclusively for Louis, but he began importing clothing from some of Europe’s top fashion houses beginning in the late 1960s. Louis Boston was one of the first retailers in the United States to carry clothing by Pierre Cardin, Yves St. Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Paul Smith, Gianfranco Ferre, and Dries van Noten, along with the Kiton and Brioni lines.
Generations of Bostonians turned to Louis when they needed suits for graduations, weddings, and bar mitzvahs. And for decades, people would line up when Louis Boston merchandise went on sale at Filene’s Basement in Downtown Crossing.
Steven Pearlstein said his father was the first fashion retailer to publish a magazine for his customers.
Louis’s top salesmen and tailors were known to stay for decades. Those employees remember Mr. Pearlstein not only for his fashion acumen, but for his bigger-than-life personality.
“He wasn’t just a fire cracker; he was the grand finale,” said Arthur Jordan, who has worked at Louis Boston for 45 years, 20 of them with Mr. Pearlstein. “He was so fiery and passionate in everything he did and demanded the best out of people who were working with him. But on the other side of the coin, he was a softy.”
Steven Pearlstein said two of his father’s strengths, which propelled the business, were an astute eye for merchandising product and his unwavering perfectionism.
“He spent an inordinate amount of time and money hiring people to do windows, which were changed every week,” said Steven. “What distinguished the store was the merchandising. When people came in, they wanted the whole outfit because it all looked so good together. It made it a whole lot easier to sell.”
Under Mr. Pearlstein and his cousins Jerome and Louis Pearlstein, Louis Boston opened stores in the Chestnut Hill Mall, Harvard Square, and in the 1980s on 57th St. in Manhattan’s Upper East Side. Women’s clothing was added in the 1980s. In 1990, Mr. Pearlstein consolidated the Boston-area locations at the old Museum of Natural History in the Back Bay. As part of the restoration, a restaurant and hair salon were added.
In 2010, Greenberg moved Louis from the Back Bay to a new location at Fan Pier on Boston Harbor.
Murray Russell Pearlstein was born and raised in Brookline and graduated from Brookline High School, where he was a track star. He attended Middlebury College and Harvard.
He lived for many years in Brookline and later in Rye Beach, N.H. with his first wife, Dorothy Stein Pearlstein, who died of cancer in 1989. He later lived in Gloucester and Boston’s North End before moving to Santa Fe in 2003.
Mr. Pearlstein leaves his wife of 23 years, Jeanne Barbour Pearlstein of Santa Fe; his daughters, Debi Greenberg and Nancy; his son, Steven, and three grandchildren.
No memorial is planned.
Christopher Muther can be reached at muther@ globe.com. Follow him on Twitter@Chris_Muther.
 
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WSW

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Truly sad news. I remember shopping at the Newbury street location when I was living in Boston. It was very special to walk into what had formerly been a museum and see some of the most exquisite clothing arranged in a very artful manner. I have always received wonderful and attentive service from staff and contrary to my usual discount-seeking proclivities, was glad to pay full retail for the Louis Boston experience. Since then, I don't think I've been to another menswear store that I've liked as much.
 

Ambulance Chaser

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I visited Louis over the Christmas holiday. Not too many customers in the store when I was there. I thought it was a huge mistake to move to the Seaport area. Boston is generally a very walkable city, but it took forever to walk there from Faneuil Hall.
 

NorCal_1

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something (pics) one would have seen on Louis displays back in the 80's and 90's when Murray Pearlstein first started importing Kiton and Luciano Barbera

earth tones and tone on tone were everywhere

DSC_0772-nggid03118-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0770-nggid03117-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg


DSC_0440-nggid0287-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0313-nggid0277-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0683-nggid03115-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg
 
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bourbonbasted

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something (pics) one would have seen on Louis displays back in the 80's and 90's when Murray Pearlstein first started importing Kiton and Luciano Barbera

earth tones and tone on tone were everywhere

DSC_0772-nggid03118-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0770-nggid03117-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg


DSC_0440-nggid0287-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0313-nggid0277-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg

DSC_0683-nggid03115-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c011r110f110r010t010.jpg


Last I was in there (about a month ago) the palette was decidedly earthy, particularly with the tailored clothing. There was also a very nice distribution of texture and material (read: just as much chalky and rough as smooth and shiny). Still, the stock didn't really bowl me over. I feel like B&M stores offer a great opportunity to inspire customers. Whereas most online outfits are dedicated to individual pieces, you can play off of decor, setting and design to create some really intriguing things in person. There was really none of that present. Just rack after rack of blues, greys and browns in pretty standard configurations and detailing.

The most intriguing parts of the store were the home-wares area and the Morgenthal Frederics boutique (the latter only being interesting because of the rep working it).
 
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europrep

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Sooo, any word about sales?

I wonder if Sams (the restaurant on second floor) will stay. Great view of the city and pretty good food.
 

LA Guy

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I was in Boston between 2003-2007, and there were some great buys (they had Cloak on the designer floor in 2003 and 2004, and Boston just wasn't ready. Most of it went to sale, and was bought up by New Yorkers, It didn't become a talked about and sought after brand until about 2004-2005.

Even then, though, it was a store in crisis. Debi Greenberg was notoriously difficult to get in touch with, imo, a real mistake for a high end boutique, which Louis really was. It's not like a Saks or a Neimans, It requires that the leader really get what is going on on the ground floor, who the customers are. And it always resisted having an online presence, something that was already becoming more and more necessary, especially for small markets like Boston. Even before I left Boston, there were rumblings about Louis being a shadow of what it used to be, and a store in search of an identity in a changing market.

Louis was a great store though. A lot of designers and retailers got their start there, as has been stated before. Luciano Barbera, for example, owes a lot to Louis Boston.
 

TheSunisShining

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It will be a big miss. But there will be something else to replace the walletspace I guess in the world that we live in
 

Spark

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Sad to hear. I got my first corporate job in 1984 and bought my first two real suits there. I can still remember them (a double breasted gray flannel and a navy two button) and the experience quite well…even when I went back to pick up the alterations.

Then I went down the street to Brooks and bought some black and brown shoes.:)

Every now and then they'd dump stock at Filene's Basement (the original one) and I got some great pieces over the next few years. Some of the private label stuff was really off the charts.

Moved to the Left Coast after that, but my wife's family is from Boston so we'd be back often. By the mid-90s the place had changed and I remember thinking that the move to the wharf seemed odd to me at the time even though the area was clearly changing.

I agree that it was always more of a boutique than "a store" - there was too much attention to detail and the customer - but that type of business only works when there is a strong and discerning vision driving it.

Still, a pity…
 

Frankie22

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Very sad. If she had signed the long term lease it would have paid off, imo. I live in fort point channel and the entire area is exploding. A lot of $ coming in; many luxe high rises going up all around where Louis is. I think the real challenge came from the daughter not having a true passion for merchandising and luxury retailing.
 
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NorCal_1

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I think the real challenge came from the daughter not having a true passion for merchandising and luxury retailing. 



Debi didn't understand menswear like her father, that's for sure. When he left, it went downhill in terms of merchandising, which is unfortunate, because it happened just as Neapolitan tailoring was becoming known. Louis should have been there at the forefront

If Murray was still running the place, I'm sure he would have also filled the gap at the lower and middle end by doing exclusive deals with Boglioli and LBM 1911 and Caruso as he did with 20 and 30 years before with Kiton and Luciano Barbera and Vestimenta and Belvest back in the day.

He would have had insisted on using their own selected proprietary wools with those makers (ie exclusive fabrics that nobody else could copy like Kiton does), that way they'd have had better price points to serve younger shoppers and exclusive's to keep them shopping at Louis and not buying Boglioi elsewhere. [eg. Boglioli for Louis.... Caruso for Louis, etc]

They also blew their chance to do simple but high quality private label suits with mix and match jackets and pants to get young buyers hooked right from their first suit - it should have been a right of passage purchase to go to Louis and get a great deal on a first suit and feel special

Hopefully others learn from their mistakes
 
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