Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[The Chai]

Yes. For me personally I like the OFB with peak (or three piece) for the "traditional" feel/vibe whereas if I wanted a more "modern" look with a shawl, a satin stripe (I do not like grosgrain for shawls) feels better for me. Speaking of which, here is my 4x1 shawl lapel being shaped. Cloth is a cream crepe of some sort. Got it for summer but the materials thickness feels more winter for me.

The main advantage that I can think of with regards to OFB is that it is technically neither satin nor grosgrain. As "silk braiding" (hence the origin of the term "trouser braiding" as it relates to military/formal trousers), it can be worn with both Silk Satin and Silk Grosgrain formal trimmings and accessories.

Its also appropriate for all evening formal and semi formal trousers.

 

[me.spoke]

Yes. For me personally I like the OFB with peak (or three piece) for the "traditional" feel/vibe whereas if I wanted a more "modern" look with a shawl, a satin stripe (I do not like grosgrain for shawls) feels better for me. Speaking of which, here is my 4x1 shawl lapel being shaped. Cloth is a cream crepe of some sort. Got it for summer but the materials thickness feels more winter for me.

Very nice! I like the fabric it seems to drape really well.

Today I had another fitting of my dinner suit, mostly to establish the lapel shape, sleeve length and total length.

Both lapels will be shaped like the one that shows thoroughly. They will also be slightly narrower towards the collar.

I wanted to make another question about the buttonholes - do I go for them in a shawl collar? If yes then how many - 1 or 2?

On a side note - the tailor confirmed the trouser braids are vintage, acquired in early 60s when he was still an apprentice. He says they are most likely British-made, but was not sure how old they are (although he suspects they were manufactured during the 50s at the latest).

 

[The Chai]

Very nice! I like the fabric it seems to drape really well.

Today I had another fitting of my dinner suit, mostly to establish the lapel shape, sleeve length and total length.

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Both lapels will be shaped like the one that shows thoroughly. They will also be slightly narrower towards the collar.

I wanted to make another question about the buttonholes - do I go for them in a shawl collar? If yes then how many - 1 or 2?

On a side note - the tailor confirmed the trouser braids are vintage, acquired in early 60s when he was still an apprentice. He says they are most likely British-made, but was not sure how old they are (although he suspects they were manufactured during the 50s at the latest).

Yeah I'm planning on making mine slightly more narrow in the lapel. Tailor is reshaping the lapel as we speak. Re buttonholes my preference is none for the shawl...personally as much as I like the idea of wearing a boutouniere I hardly ever wear one and if I do I'd rather do it with a peak than a shawl...a buttonhole breaks the line which is not the aesthetic I want. It's also meant to be more relaxed...

 

[classicalthunde]

my preference is none for the shawl...personally as much as I like the idea of wearing a boutouniere I hardly ever wear one and if I do I'd rather do it with a peak than a shawl...a buttonhole breaks the line which is not the aesthetic I want. It's also meant to be more relaxed...

agree...I always find button holes on shawl lapels to look odd/distracting

 

[The Chai]

Just got mine and no...I'm not planning on wearing a necktie with it!

 

[tdang]

What can I say? Kotaro don’t miss 😤

Ongoing are brown and sage in mohair/ wool. Upcoming maybe the blueish green cloth below (although the brick quasi-herringbone on top is starting to speak to me…). I haven’t decided yet, but I am leaning towards something that is not glencheck and not brown.

Bonus: tried on the single breasted jacket coat with collo bastardo. It’s a vibe.

 

[ddohnggo]

Looks amazing! Love the coat. Can’t wait try out his tailoring in 2026 😅😅

Btw, did he make those flannel pants in the first picture? Love the cut of those.

 

[tdang]

Looks amazing! Love the coat. Can’t wait try out his tailoring in 2026 😅😅

Btw, did he make those flannel pants in the first picture? Love the cut of those.

Thanks man! The flannels are Ambrosi RTW made on the Bryceland’s block. I ordered a size larger and just have the waist taken in. It fits thicc quads like mine a lot better than the standard Ambrosi cut or other rtw offerings for that matter, but of course bespoke is likely better still.

I think the appeal of the pants is at least 50% down to the beastly Perdassus cloth though …

 

[WhereNext]

Recently spent too much time perusing the books for my next order. The orange is the darker of the two in Fox’s City book and will be made into a pair of trousers. The navy blue is a cashmere/silk/linen blend that the tailor apparently did a short production of and will be made into a quarter lined Summer/Spring jacket.

 

[__k]

First stop, Igarashi and MBT #1. He is a member of the shop staff and accepts orders for suits/ jackets/ etc. that he makes himself. The style is soft and lean, quite Japanese. Cloth is Anglo Italian (large scale herringbone that dissolves to a solid from distance).

Thanks for sharing this. I've been considering ordering something with this MBT but it's been impossible to find any pics of people other than the tailor himself in his work. Did you order this as a 2pc suit?

 

[tdang]

Thanks for sharing this. I've been considering ordering something with this MBT but it's been impossible to find any pics of people other than the tailor himself in his work. Did you order this as a 2pc suit?

It’s just a jacket. I like that his cut is not overly stylized, his prices and turnaround are quite good for Japanese artisans as well.

 

[__k]

It’s just a jacket. I like that his cut is not overly stylized, his prices and turnaround are quite good for Japanese artisans as well.

Thanks. I was also surprised by the quoted turnaround when I was talking with him last year. I'll probably start an order when I'm there later this month.

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks. I was also surprised by the quoted turnaround when I was talking with him last year. I'll probably start an order when I'm there later this month.

I may also give him a go if I make it to Japan. I’d like to find someone who can turnaround a first fitting in a few days & then do a subsequent fitting on my next trip.

I’m under the impression most can’t turnaround a first fitting on my initial trip.

 

[jonathanS]

What can I say? Kotaro don’t miss 😤

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Ongoing are brown and sage in mohair/ wool. Upcoming maybe the blueish green cloth below (although the brick quasi-herringbone on top is starting to speak to me…). I haven’t decided yet, but I am leaning towards something that is not glencheck and not brown.

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Bonus: tried on the single breasted jacket coat with collo bastardo. It’s a vibe.

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Did you order a coat? Or can’t justify it in Vietnam?

I’m not sure about the collo bastardo. I’m not sure it’s my aesthetic. I know kotaro does a nice coat, but I think I’d rather do a polo coat with either doppio uso lapels or peak lapels.

 

[WhereNext]

Well, prices are going up after Spring Festival so it would be foolish to NOT order this for a quarter lined Spring/Summer sports coat now. This is from the Sunset side of the Loro Piana Cruise book. I was tempted to get this made up as a dinner jacket, but think I’ll use another pink for that some other time.