Hong Kong Shirt Makers

[chiefhk]

Hi All, I am trying to get views on the various well-known Hong Kong shirt makers to see if it's worth me making a change. I have been using Ascot Chang for almost all my shirts with the exception of a few from David's shirts. Overall Ascot Chang has been pretty good for the most part but I think consistency in the workmanship has been slightly lacking for the premium that they charge. David's shirts didn't turn out as well as I was hoping, the quality and attention to detail didn't seem on-par. I tried Jantzen almost 8 years ago and the shirts turned out pretty badly so I won't be going back there again.

I was wondering what the views are on the quality/workmanship/pricing for tailors like A Man Hing Cheong, Gordon Yao, WW Chan? Is it worth making the switch given Ascot Chang has the reputation of being the best? Any other tailors I should be considering that would have the same quality and skills?

Thanks all! Any input would be much appreciated

 

[chiefhk]

Any thoughts/opinions on the subject matter? I've also heard of Loa Hai Shing being mentioned but haven't seen much on them

Thanks!

 

[Penfold]

Is cost a factor here or do you really just care about getting the best? If it is the latter then you should probably stick with AC - I don't think anyone can approach their level of quality and reputation.

I've found Graly shirtmaker in Wan Chai who has made me some perfectly decent shirts in his house cloth for 450 HKD each, chosen from amongst the many bolts of cloth that are in his store which I find easier than the game of Hunt The Sample Book at Jantzen.

The shirts came back with some loose threads here and there but the construction seems solid and I got what I asked for. Buttons aren't MoP but I could source those myself for maybe 65-75 HKD a set if I tried.

I'm going to tweak the fit and then take him some lengths of Thomas Mason shirting fabric I've just bought from a wholesaler in Sheung Wan.

Are they quite as perfect as Ascot Chang's product probably is? Definitely not. Are they a cost-effective alternative - for me yes.

 

[chiefhk]

Thanks! While cost is definitely a consideration, I'm looking for quality. Guess the point here is to try and determine if the cost-performance ratio for ascot Chang justifiable and it sounds like they're probably right up there?

 

[cchen]

I've tried several shirt makers in HK and I still find AC the best. Have you tried talking to them about the quality issues you encountered? They've always bent over backwards to correct any issues that I've had.

 

[Isolation]

I use Jantzen and Moda Republic. I like the pricepoint. I think it's good value. I've got two shirts from WW Chan but can't really offer any useful insight in comparison to other makers. I have had good experience with Jantzen and Moda.

 

[chiefhk]



I've tried several shirt makers in HK and I still find AC the best. Have you tried talking to them about the quality issues you encountered? They've always bent over backwards to correct any issues that I've had.

Thanks, they've definitely tried to rectify any issues which for the pricing would be something expected. Guess it seems like the consensus feels they're still the best in hk

 

[chiefhk]



I use Jantzen and Moda Republic. I like the pricepoint. I think it's good value. I've got two shirts from WW Chan but can't really offer any useful insight in comparison to other makers. I have had good experience with Jantzen and Moda.

What is your opinion of the shirts made by ww chan?

 

[Isolation]

I have to be honest I haven't worn them too much but it's mostly because the fabric I chose is not very versatile. It fits better but honestly I can't say that I feel the improvement is worth the extra cost. I'm very happy with the 350-550 price point.

 

[vinveritas]

I've had 5 shirts from WW Chan. What I like best is that the thick MOP buttons are shanked. The fit is what follows from the single fitting. For example, the sleeves take into account the actual respective lengths of my arms. But is it value for money at USD 175-200 from my last purchase? Am thinking of trying AC for comparison.

 

[chiefhk]



I have to be honest I haven't worn them too much but it's mostly because the fabric I chose is not very versatile. It fits better but honestly I can't say that I feel the improvement is worth the extra cost. I'm very happy with the 350-550 price point.

Thanks

 

[chiefhk]



I've had 5 shirts from WW Chan. What I like best is that the thick MOP buttons are shanked. The fit is what follows from the single fitting. For example, the sleeves take into account the actual respective lengths of my arms. But is it value for money at USD 175-200 from my last purchase? Am thinking of trying AC for comparison.

Would be great to hear your thoughts if you do try AC

 

[Jasbear]

I am new to the forum. I will be in Hong Kong next month and would like to have some shirts made.
Are there any recommendations in the 100-150 USD range?

Thank you

 

[pc282]

On Penfold's recommendation, I finally gave Graly a try. I recall walking past the shop on many occasions and never gave it much of a thought. I find it quite a gem and far,far better experience than Jantzens, and above all else a better product. In terms of the price differential(450 vs 360 HKD), Graly is more than well worth it - small caveat might be the turnaround time,which can possibly be more than a couple of days?. On 3 separate instances, I've had multiple shirts made and soon to approach a dozen. I'm a very satisfied customer with the house cloths and resisted the temptation to splurge with the Thomas Mason offerings. I got lucky with the white herringbone fabric and I was modestly surprised how luxurious it turned out. Tim, the owner and tailor, was quite helpful, making recommendations and didn't once winge - as I continually modified my requests over the 3 iterations (i.e. monogramming advice, slimmer fit, angled cuffs, pointed collar to spread collar, etc.). I own a few AC shirts, purchased RTW over the years(annual sale). I'll admit the TM fabrics are indeed superior, but if similar shirts were put to a "wear" test, Graly is quite comparable.

 

[Penfold]

Very glad (and rather relieved) that you like it. Let's hope Tim doesn't get too busy, that standards don't slip or that prices don't shoot up, but with the longer lead times and off-the-beaten track location I don't think there's too much danger of Graly going global anytime soon.

Tim is currently making me my 10th through 13th shirts, and I have plans for about the same number again. He might seem a little cold at first but he's really a patient guy who will work with you to get what you want, and that's worth the money over being made to feel like a worm at Jantzen any day. Getting to choose from the fabric bolts is much better than looking through sample books IMO and because he's just a shirtmaker there's no upsell to suits or anything else.

I've started to take him mother of pearl buttons bought up in Sham Shui Po so perhaps he'll get the hint and offer them to customers. FYI they were $172 HKD for a gross (144), but you'll need different sizes for placket, collar, gauntlet and button-down respectively.

The one thing I have found is that it's best to only order one variety of shirt at a time - so my last order was for more casual shirts in cotton and in linen detailed with the same collar/cuff/pleat/placket and fit options, but the next is going to be for very formal dress shirts. Don't cross the streams....