HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Room was messy so I had to crop myself out lol. What can I work on?

Great effort. The colours blend well; blue and brown are a sure fire combination. Some advice if I may? With a loud, patterned jacket like this, go with a solid tie. Navy is a good choice. So is dark brown. As for the trousers, a more relaxed fit would be more suitable for the sport coat and tie look. Gray is always a good choice. Hope this helps.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

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Hey guys,

Need your advice with this suit. I had the waist taken in and the trousers in a job that turned out to be something I dont really enjoy, a very pronounced hourglass shape and trousers too short (see pic #3).

I then took it to my usual tailor to have the waist reversed back to original and the trousers lengthened by using some fabric from inside and shortening the cuff from 2 to 1.5 inches.

Now with the suit in its current state, I am thinking whether I should take the waist in again, this time to something in between how it was before and how it was now. However, when looking from the back, I see it draping weirdly and fabric pulling from random spots. Is this because of all the butchering I got done to the suit? Would you take the waist in again or just leave it?

I am also pretty sure the sleeves were hemmed to different lengths by tailor #1. I am learning important lessons with this suit, lol. I am also going to get the cuffs back to a 1.75 and stop faffing with the trousers.

And yes, I need some better stuff to do with my life than obsess about this suit!!

As always, thanks for the invaluable advice!

PS: didnt take it to the original tailor because I live in a different city, for those wondering.

One thing that really catches my eye is how closed the quarters (bottom front if the jacket) are. If you’re okay with this, great. If not, no amount of alteration can fix it, and I’d advise cutting your losses. Overall, even though you’ve taken the waist back out, the jacket still looks too tight, as you can see from the shoulder roll (ripples just behind the back of the collar).

My 2 cents FWIW.

 

[kid1002]

I think that's a fine fit. How closed the quarters should be is a pretty subjective matter. You will see English tailors cutting more closed quarters generally than Italian tailors. The only *quote-on-quote wrong fit would be extreme cutaways.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

I think that's a fine fit. How closed the quarters should be is a pretty subjective matter. You will see English tailors cutting more closed quarters generally than Italian tailors. The only *quote-on-quote wrong fit would be extreme cutaways.

That’s why I said, “If you’re okay with this, great.” 😉 In the end, it’s up to the OP. Me? I’d cut my losses, given the tailoring efforts seem to have made things worse.

 

[Jones&co]

Great effort. The colours blend well; blue and brown are a sure fire combination. Some advice if I may? With a loud, patterned jacket like this, go with a solid tie. Navy is a good choice. So is dark brown. As for the trousers, a more relaxed fit would be more suitable for the sport coat and tie look. Gray is always a good choice. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice my man. I’m waiting on a more relaxed fitting pair of grey trousers to come back from alterations. I’m getting them cuffed. These trousers I have on are from when I didn’t know what classic menswear was. I wore them for my wedding and had them taken in a bit. As you can see they are kind of slim. But all advice is good advice. Thanks

 

[Jones&co]

Thanks for the advice my man. I’m waiting on a more relaxed fitting pair of grey trousers to come back from alterations. I’m getting them cuffed. These trousers I have on are from when I didn’t know what classic menswear was. I wore them for my wedding and had them taken in a bit. As you can see they are kind of slim. But all advice is good advice. Thanks

And I also see what you mean about the solid color tie. That’s why I’m glad I’m in this group. You can really see things until someone points it out to you. Great eye

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

And I also see what you mean about the solid color tie. That’s why I’m glad I’m in this group. You can really see things until someone points it out to you. Great eye

No worries. Glad to help 🙂

 

[Heykal]

Suiting up:

• shoes: Fratelli Rossetti
• socks: Pedemeia
• suit: Pini Parma
• shirt: Lanieri
• pocket square: Shibumi Firenze.

Have a great day gentlemen!

 

[ppk]

New brown MTM suit by Luxire in Dugdale cavalry twill (INV038)

White balance in the close up is off. The other pictures are close to the actual color.

Spoiler: Details

 

[Thin White Duke]

One thing that really catches my eye is how closed the quarters (bottom front if the jacket) are. If you’re okay with this, great. If not, no amount of alteration can fix it, and I’d advise cutting your losses. Overall, even though you’ve taken the waist back out, the jacket still looks too tight, as you can see from the shoulder roll (ripples just behind the back of the collar).

My 2 cents FWIW.

Co-signing this post.
Also I’ll say this for the umpteenth time - Personally I prefer slim but not skinny flat front strides and even then I’m sick to death of seeing pics of ankle-strangling trouser hems on SF. It throws off the balance of the entire silhouette. I’m not suggesting bell bottoms nor even pleated looser fits preferred by some regular SF posters but when I can see the entire shoe while the trouser crease sits behind the tongue of the shoe it’s just not a good look.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Suiting up:

• shoes: Fratelli Rossetti
• socks: Pedemeia
• suit: Pini Parma
• shirt: Lanieri
• pocket square: Shibumi Firenze.

Have a great day gentlemen!
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See my post above.
I’ve critiqued your narrow strides before but you persevere with this look. Sorry I know we can’t be expected to overhaul our entire wardrobes overnight so I don’t mean this to be a pile-on, but this just looks laughably bad.

 

[An Acute Style]

Brooks linen jacket, seersucker shirt, and everyone’s favorite pajama pants.

 

[Heykal]

For today:

• shoes: C&J
• socks: Pedemeia
• trousers: Scavini (gold/mustard)
• suspenders: Albert Thurston
• Polo: Ralph Lauren (light gray)
• jacket: Spier & Mackay (denim)
• pocket square: Fumagalli 1891.

Enjoy your day!

 

[Heykal]

See my post above.
I’ve critiqued your narrow strides before but you persevere with this look. Sorry I know we can’t be expected to overhaul our entire wardrobes overnight so I don’t mean this to be a pile-on, but this just looks laughably bad.
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Thanks for the feedback. I tend to agree with you, but not entirely.

I agree because, if given the choice, my leg opening would be wider, around 1/3 of my shoes's length.

However, I do not entirely agree for several reasons. Firstly, I feel like this is less of an issue with loafers than with, say, derby or oxford shoes.

Secondly, proportions matter. For example, I am tall (±6.2 ft) but my shoe size is 9.5, whereas it could normally be 10.5 or 11.

Lastly, it's cultural. Pini Parma is an italian brand, and in Italy, they tend to wear their clothes very fitted. You can see this on their website, and I also noticed it firsthand when I spent a week in Milan last year.

EDIT
I would add a fourth point: preference. I am thinking of AskOkey that says that leg opening should be 2/3 of the shoe (example). He is more knowledgeable than me but I hate the look of it.

 

[DorianGreen]

Thanks for the feedback. I tend to agree with you, but not entirely.

I agree because, if given the choice, my leg opening would be wider, around 1/3 of my shoes's length.

However, I do not entirely agree for several reasons. Firstly, I feel like this is less of an issue with loafers than with, say, derby or oxford shoes.

Secondly, proportions matter. For example, I am tall (±6.2 ft) but my shoe size is 9.5, whereas it could normally be 10.5 or 11.

Lastly, it's cultural. Pini Parma is an italian brand, and in Italy, they tend to wear their clothes very fitted. You can see this on their website, and I also noticed it firsthand when I spent a week in Milan last year.

It's nice that you appreciate feedback. I also suggested to widen the leg opening on your trousers time ago, but you seem to stick to your usual narrow one. I understand that you wear what you have, but I would still give a try. Pretty sure you won't regret.

And yes, Italian tailors and fashion brands are mainly responsible for the skinny trousers. Not a reason to follow though.

EDIT: I love wide leg trousers, but if it's not your preference, you could still try something in between.