CAVOUR Official Community - Discuss Tailoring, Shirting, Shoes & More - Official Affiliate Thread

[kevinsvindland]

Small job opening, as AI is not yet good enough:


We are looking for someone to help out with Swedish translations and proof reading copy for our website.


So if there is a Swede on here that likes to read and write, please shoot me a DM for details.

 

[kevinsvindland]

Permanent Style: The Casual Style Guide

Now available online and in store.

 

[St1X]

@kevinsvindland the description for Sartoria jackets and suits says that every seam and stitch are executed by hand and no machine has ever been involved in the production of these garments.
Unfortunately that is not true. While there is a lot more hand work in Sartoria jackets, there is plenty of machine stitches there. All structural seams are machine made, fabric folds are machine stitch secured, lining stitching is machine made in some places. And that's only for the seams easily visible. I suspect there is a lot more on the inside. Not gonna open my jacket to see if the canvas is hand or machine padded.
The only time I liked false advertising was when I found that all button holes on a regular line were handmade as opposite to just lapel button hole per advertising.

 

[blue928]

What you see is what you get. Might be returns, might be some products in transfer from our physical store. But the product balance is real time.

Today we recieved the second batch of tailoring and outerwear, so the website will be updated as soon as the new goods are processed.

This Loro Piana Wool Herringbone Martingala Coat is among todays arrivals.
View attachment 2031455

I purchased this coat, and I love it so far. The softness and hand feel is amazing. The herringbone is subtle but provides good visual interest. I wonder if you know the weight of the Loro Piana wool used? My guess would be around 16 or 17 oz, am I close? It does seem on the light side, but a small sacrifice for the plush feel. Also, I think the length is actually perfect for me. Now I wish there were more colours for me to purchase.

 

[kevinsvindland]

I purchased this coat, and I love it so far. The softness and hand feel is amazing. The herringbone is subtle but provides good visual interest. I wonder if you know the weight of the Loro Piana wool used? My guess would be around 16 or 17 oz, am I close? It does seem on the light side, but a small sacrifice for the plush feel. Also, I think the length is actually perfect for me. Now I wish there were more colours for me to purchase.

It’s a good one, glad you like it.

Around 5-600g if I remember correctly - Typical Italian overcoat weight.

 

[MrNestor]

@kevinsvindland

I'm about to purchase a suit in preparation for not being a student anymore. Which one out of the navy twill or the navy twist would be the wiser choice for the "first" quality suit?

I'm thinking it is the first of many but would still like it be as versatile as possible, maybe even to wear as an odd jacket, but that aspect is not super important.
The twist does seem darker and less shiny judging from the pictures, which is a good thing.

Anyone else can feel free to chime in too!
Twill or twist?

 

[MrNestor]

I chose and ordered the twist in navy with the Mod 3 trousers.

 

[kevinsvindland]

I chose and ordered the twist in navy with the Mod 3 trousers.

I would go for the twist, it is a little more robust.
And it is indeed darker with a matte finish. The subtle texture of the cloth makes it wear decent as separates too.

 

[St1X]

@kevinsvindland the description for Sartoria jackets and suits says that every seam and stitch are executed by hand and no machine has ever been involved in the production of these garments.
Unfortunately that is not true. While there is a lot more hand work in Sartoria jackets, there is plenty of machine stitches there. All structural seams are machine made, fabric folds are machine stitch secured, lining stitching is machine made in some places. And that's only for the seams easily visible. I suspect there is a lot more on the inside. Not gonna open my jacket to see if the canvas is hand or machine padded.
The only time I liked false advertising was when I found that all button holes on a regular line were handmade as opposite to just lapel button hole per advertising.

@kevinsvindland can you comment on this one? Not that I dislike my Sartoria garments - they are phenomenal. But I would like to know where is the error - in the description or at the factory?

 

[kevinsvindland]

@kevinsvindland can you comment on this one? Not that I dislike my Sartoria garments - they are phenomenal. But I would like to know where is the error - in the description or at the factory?

There is no error, this jacket is as handmade as they come.

However I do appreciate that the wording could be slightly different.

As there are some machine stitching on some of the components, before they are assembled by hand. Such as the closing of the cut edges of each "panel".

 

[St1X]

There is no error, this jacket is as handmade as they come.

However I do appreciate that the wording could be slightly different.

As there are some machine stitching on some of the components, before they are assembled by hand. Such as the closing of the cut edges of each "panel".

Thanks for the clarification.
While I am at it, can I ask you what's the motivation to have the front of your jackets lined? If I am not wrong, on a regular line lining is also attached by hand. I have no idea if it is economically cheaper to do a neat finishing there vs having a lining on the front. But I personally prefer to have only a half lining on the back and in the sleeves. This is the only thing that Cavour's jackets are missing for me personally to be perfect. On the Sartoria line the fit on me is at a bespoke level

 

[kevinsvindland]

Thanks for the clarification.
While I am at it, can I ask you what's the motivation to have the front of your jackets lined? If I am not wrong, on a regular line lining is also attached by hand. I have no idea if it is economically cheaper to do a neat finishing there vs having a lining on the front. But I personally prefer to have only a half lining on the back and in the sleeves. This is the only thing that Cavour's jackets are missing for me personally to be perfect. On the Sartoria line the fit on me is at a bespoke level

True, the lining is done by hand on the regular line too.


The function of the front lining is that it sits more comfortably on the wearer, because there is less friction.

Personally I dont like when jackets are lined with the same fabric. To me it does not feel as sartorial or elegant.
But to each his own.

 

[MrNestor]

Thanks for the clarification.
While I am at it, can I ask you what's the motivation to have the front of your jackets lined? If I am not wrong, on a regular line lining is also attached by hand. I have no idea if it is economically cheaper to do a neat finishing there vs having a lining on the front. But I personally prefer to have only a half lining on the back and in the sleeves. This is the only thing that Cavour's jackets are missing for me personally to be perfect. On the Sartoria line the fit on me is at a bespoke level

Pictures please!

 

[Rowyourboat]

@kevinsvindland, could you share the sizing dimensions for the Sportivo Parka in size 48? I wanted to know the length, sleeve length, and shoulder width. Thank you!

 

[kevinsvindland]

@kevinsvindland, could you share the sizing dimensions for the Sportivo Parka in size 48? I wanted to know the length, sleeve length, and shoulder width. Thank you!

I dont have a shoulder measurement at hand, But this should give a pretty good idea. Runs true to size.