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Search results
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
Pretty certain it's Super Buck Pebble from Charles F Stead https://www.cfstead.com/classic-suedes/super-buck-pebble/ I bought a hide (maybe a side) from A&A Crack (Leather merchants in Northampton) in 2016 when the leather was very much a novelty. It got turned into a Venetian loafer leaving...- bengal-stripe
- Post #5,871
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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John Lobb 1849 London bespoke--anyone have direct experience here?
Yes, you're right. I was referring to what you had written here, but also to member 'manton' who told the same story here at SF, only some twenty or so years earlier ("the shoes were terrible, but they made a totally new pair, even in a different design, now they're fine"). I remember the only...- bengal-stripe
- Post #5
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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John Lobb 1849 London bespoke--anyone have direct experience here?
It's not since the year dot that John Lobb (London) works without a trial shoe. That policy was introduced by Eric Lobb (1907-1993). Eric is given great credit for manoeuvring the company safely through the turbulent post-war years. Whether the cutting out of the fitting process was based on...- bengal-stripe
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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OFFICIAL Simon Crompton thread (PermanentStyle.com)
I would place it a few decades earlier: A Bolshevik rebel facing a tzarist execution squad- bengal-stripe
- Post #193
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)
I wonder where C&J got the inspiration for the Aldershot, may be here? In 2013 John Lobb (Paris) showed a collection of bespoke shoes to represent the "Spirit of the Cities". This particular model represented London:- bengal-stripe
- Post #30,277
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)
Sorry, wrong quote. Please delete!- bengal-stripe
- Post #30,275
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Berluti bespoke - any experience
It's one of three logos Gerberei Martin in Tuttlingen/Germany uses. Whether the choice of one or the other logo indicates different quality levels, I wouldn't know. https://shoegazing.com/2021/11/04/report-gerberei-martin-traditional-oak-bark-sole-leather-tannery/ I'm surprised Berluti uses a...- bengal-stripe
- Post #28
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
Here you are! EG "Malvern made for Louis Boston (Mid 90s?) on last 33 with "half-moon" detail: Here are the differences between the "old" and the "new" Oxford pattern. Both shoes are last 202 in D fitting. But there is a difference in size: Black shoe is new pattern in (English) size 8 1/2...- bengal-stripe
- Post #43,716
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
Yes, EG certainly used this way of adding reinforcement to the vamp point. I've just checked my shoes and I found three pairs from the mid-90s sporting that feature. I believe it was a standard of the "old Oxford". Sometime in the mid-90s, the standard pattern for all Oxford shoes got revised...- bengal-stripe
- Post #43,714
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Church's Appreciation Thread
Church's was acquired by Prada in 1999. Post-Prada the shoes carried not only London, Paris, New York but also had Milan added. That would be another pointer towards mid-to-late Nineties.- bengal-stripe
- Post #1,115
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Canons (London) bespoke shoes
Here are a few historical prices for shoes, bespoke and premium ready-to-wear. Source is an article in the 'Financial Times' from about 1998. Bespoke shoes: Jason Amesbury £1000 GJ Cleverley & Co £1000 Foster & Son £1110 John Lobb (London) £1490 (without VAT) Poulsen Skone (New & Lingwood)...- bengal-stripe
- Post #27
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
Here is a good introduction into 'gemming', the textile rib to which the welt gets attached in the vast majority of machine-made shoes. Gemming was introduced in the 1950s and can't be as bad as some claim, as millions of shoes have been produced since then...- bengal-stripe
- Post #43,337
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
'Castorino' by Tannery Zonta, a 'reversed calf' is generally considered (at least in West-End bespoke shoemaking circles) to be the first choice for premium suede. It is reversed: the grain side, undisturbed, is left in place and gives far more stability to the leather than inferior 'velour'...- bengal-stripe
- Post #42,915
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Help with Cleverley
Adam Law is no longer working with Cleverley. Instagram.com: adamlawshoemaker- bengal-stripe
- Post #21
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Berluti bespoke - any experience
Is this the same job that was measured on March 25th? To complete an order for a bespoke pair of shoes in just four month must be a world record. And a lovely pair they turned out to be.- bengal-stripe
- Post #19
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Best High-Grade, OTC, Hand-Linked Socks Internationally? Please help.
For those who haven't seen it before, here is a video showing the process of hand linking (by machine): At one time hearing "hand-linking" I did imagine little old ladies with crochet hooks doing the connection of the toe seam literally by hand. Unfortunately the truth is more prosaic, the...- bengal-stripe
- Post #6
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Canons (London) bespoke shoes
The firm is a follow-up from Foster & Son. Foster went bust, venturing with Japanese money into ready-to-wear did kill them. Canons was founded by Simon Bolzoni who was once a lastmaker for Foster. I seem to remember that the new firm started off as Foster, but they had to rename themselves as...- bengal-stripe
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Advice for shoes for wide feet
The 'width' of a shoe is the circumference of the last, not the width from left to right. Whenever you change the 'width' the circumference changes, the left/right measurement of the insole (Brandsohle) will changes accordingly, about 1 1/2 mm either wider or narrower. That change is so small...- bengal-stripe
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Lumps in shoe sole
The 'lumps' are the heads of the nails which go through the insole and hold the heel in place. They are covered-up by the 'sock' (insole liner) and usually a little pad of foam or felt. Those EG shoes, judging by the design of the EG logo, are very old, mid- to late 80s I would guess. It is...- bengal-stripe
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Church's Appreciation Thread
You might well be right. That absurd price increase of a year or two ago did make matters only worse. They certainly are not in a good place: https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/markets/article-11202043/Luxury-shoe-brand-Churchs-heel-sales-slide.html- bengal-stripe
- Post #1,003
- Forum: Classic Menswear