Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[TWorksheets]



how do you size yohji?

To supplement Ivwri's answer, here are asobu's thoughts on sizing. Very helpful starting place:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The term one-sized gets thrown around a lot but in fact very few pieces in a certain collection are produced in just one size, if any at all. The garments that are generally one sized are knits and t-shirts, those are often just produced in sz 3 (roughly equivalent to M/48). Some pants are one sized but those are quite rare, at least for the last 10 years. The ss08 ronin pants with the button construction is the one pair I can think of from the last few years, though there might be a few others I've missed. In fact, he's done several pants with clever button construction on the waistband that still came in different sizes (for instance aw04).

However, post-03/04 the pants are cut quite generously in the waist. It's not totally uncommon for pants in sz 3 to measure 18"+ in the waist - though there are exceptions of course - they are indeed meant to be bunched up with a belt or worn with suspenders, and they do fall correctly on the body. The specific pair (I think) you refer to definitely came in sz 2 and 4 as well, though it should be mentioned that those are some of the widest pants he's cut during the last few years and might not be the best place to start if you've never worn Yohji before. The typical YYPH cut is the wide pants with drawstring in the waist, those often come in the regular size set 2/3/4 and are huge in the waist. The ones on LN-CC this season measured 43" in the waist for a sz 2 (S).

About sizing in general:

The regular size run is 2, 3 and 4. This aw11 season they changed it up a bit and started selling 1 (XS) in the west, before those was usually only sold in japan in very small numbers. There are also sz 5 and 6 for the western market (not sold in Japan), those are also quite rare. A sz 6 is never ever a one size item though I've seen some sellers claim them to be.

A good way to approach Yohji sizing is to think about height rather than width, if you're tall you should probably size up one so the inseam is long enough, no matter how the waist is cut. This goes for jackets as well, you get the intended balance in length and sleeve length. It's a common "mistake" to size down because the measurements look big, remember that it's often better to size up than down when it comes to Yohji.

Also note that this refers to the mainline, the Y's pants are often cut considerably slimmer in the waist (with exceptions as always).

TW did the jacket have mao collar with seatbelt detailing at the back and small buttons? You outbidded me on those! lol

haha that's the one! sorry friend. I'm still waffling on whether to keep the jacket or not. I'll pm you if I decide to let it go

 

[asobu]

^haha, no worries. I'll send you a pm, have a few questions anyway.

 

[davidlee388]

Someone very experienced in Yohji clothing once said:- " If in doubt, sze up instead of down! "

 

[Benesyed]

PM me or david for the link; AW10 coat in sz 4. Excellent condition.

The shoulder measurement is bizzare but its a size 4 coat in a brownish beige color. Condition is marked as no signs of wear pre-owned. Looks great to me!

To the asker about sizing.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

My limited experience falls into two categories, whether I am looking for a slimmer shape or for a larger looser cut. If its the latter then 3-5 is how i size and just wear a belt with it. Even some 2 pieces are fairly roomy at the waist. This is same for tops and bottoms and more so YYPH than Y's. With tops I lean toward 4 but some older more generous cut blazers are fine with a 3 esp yyph.

I find finding a slim cut for pants to be more challenging esp with Y's. To find the right waist and right slim shape is tough! For y's id say for me a 4 is best. yyph i was able to get away with a 3 and it was not tight but not as loos on the thighs as id like (for the purpose of wearing a wool knit long john underneath).

Best to get measurements and compare to items you already own. Happy hunting

 

[davidlee388]

Bene that coat listed is from the great AW10 Collection I believe. It's very rare and I know someone wants that badly, especially in sz 4.

 

[xeraphim]

dropped by the conduit st store to have a look earlier - ss13 is indeed spectacular.

 

[the shah]

didn't post this here last time but wore the priest shirt visiting a mission in southwest

Spoiler

the shah received some new things

Spoiler: details

YYPH ss11 "Priest Shirt" sample item, 135cm long
Uniqlo
Chaps
CDG x Purcells
Ute ss12 linen bag sup breezybhai

This place once served as a bastion of civility where the Spanish Catholic conquistadors had established the only hope to tame the savage man.
Apaches destroyed the original one, and the king--paranoid as he was--subsequently banned all Jesuits from Spanish lands in the Americas, entrusting instead the Franciscans to take charge thenceforth.
Now it lies on the [totally undeveloped] reservation and visited by idle-worshiping Mexicans, the very descendants of the once noble but now bankrupted Spaniards, who come to play songs and light small candles as patronage to their holy figures*

* no offense intended to any Mexicans, Jesuits/Catholics/Christians, Native Americans, Spaniards, or anyone else. I was just summarizing 400 years of history from a fictionally colonialist POV

Spoiler: some photos

nearby hillside

Priest shirt paired with other stuff
(yyph pants, cdgh+ pants, vans, 2 x chucks, schneider scarf, damir cap, ute bag)

Spoiler: random experimental gif

shabushabu with some friends, she's from hokaido prefecture and found it hilarious/awesome i was just wearing yohji

Spoiler

and then went to a mountain

Spoiler

aw05 bunched waist jacket sz3
aw03 raf turtle neck wool sweater
aw04 cashmere sz4
socks and cdg x cons
ss12 ute linen bag

finally another mission (same Jesuit fellow)

Spoiler

ss11 damir cap
ss11 long shirt sample sz3
uniqlo t
aw04 cashmere cropped trousers sz4
vans slipons

 

[Benesyed]

its always a delight to see your posts shah, sometimes i feel the quality of the landscape photos dwarfs the clothing (no small feat)

 

[Parker]

Welcome back Parker and looking forward to the new look site

(I figure you were busy with that?).

Thanks Ivwri. I've had a lot going on in 'real life' so haven't been visiting the forum the past month or two. I check in on the Yohji thread occasionally though. Glad everyone is still here. I didn't do very much on the new SF site actually. The Huddler team did all the design. I'm afraid if left up to me, it would look like an Agnes Martin painting. All white on white on white with no one knowing where to click.

 

[davidlee388]

shah, your posts are regular iPad wreckers, the thing just dies trying to show all these Hi-Resolution pics Great stuff nonetheless, you gave the Yohji fans preferential treatment, the SZers didn't get as many shots

Parker I presume now you have more time to play in this parallel universe, we've missed THE HAIR

 

[Ivwri]

I thought I was the only person whose iPad crawled when faced with the shah's pics, hehe. Great stuff man. Really envy how often you get to roam in such great environments.

Oh and Parker, will be getting back to you soon about our own smaller project, hehe. The demands of more boring work got in the way, but it's a new year and I mean to capitalize on it by getting cooler stuff off the ground (that and making enough money to be able to afford to fill my wardrobe with stuff from SS13, hehe).

Xeraphim, is the whole collection out in the Conduit store?

 

[the shah]



its always a delight to see your posts shah, sometimes i feel the quality of the landscape photos dwarfs the clothing (no small feat)

haha thanks ! i must admit i prefer enjoying the scenery than staring at my own clothes, perhaps defeats the purpose of showing what one is wearing but anyway ...
after returning from the mountaintop, i was looking at the shots my friend and I took up there and I was a bit startled realizing how close I really was to the ledge never mind all the snow and ice there. The shot looking down on the winding road below really illustrates this well, nothing but a straight drop for quite a while

shah, your posts are regular iPad wreckers, the thing just dies trying to show all these Hi-Resolution pics Great stuff nonetheless, you gave the Yohji fans preferential treatment, the SZers didn't get as many shots

Parker I presume now you have more time to play in this parallel universe, we've missed THE HAIR

good, i don't like ipad
i kid, but i've already reduced the resolution from 4000x4000something ! i used spoiler tags to reduce the clutter, something that sz doesn't have and given the latest string of all-black-slim-fits followed by "nice variety" commentary i thought it better to desist

+1 on the parallel parker peli play

good news, wire has sent the package, a new suit is on the way ! but i'm wondering if the trousers will fit, quite slim (relatively speaking of course)

Y's for men double layer suit. sz3 aw03 mint condition

Spoiler

rare item and difficult to find as a suit, from one the best y's collections from the past aw03 shown with YYPH

Hand stitching details, the inner layer is a fully constructed sleeveless blazer. The quality is extremely high, incredible wool gabardine fabric and the construction is top notch. Color is an very dark navy (looks basically black) The pants are slimmer than usual with a straight cut (not huge as usually would be)

Removed the Y's patches (there were there to show the fully reversible nature of the garment) but I still have them. It an be worn with the two layers on or just the blazer. The sleeveless blazer can also be worn by itself and it looks great ss04 style.

also picked this up:
Leder shirt, quite thick very nice color and the fabric is just luscious. am considering some trousers but will wait and see as there may be other yohji on the way and that of course takes precedence

 

[Benesyed]

shah you fiend, i had my eyes on that suit

i can rest a little easier knowing it was a dark navy and not a true black. If it doesnt work out for you let me know.

 

[davidlee388]

Ivwri, I PMed you a few days ago about a certain AW12 piece, did you miss it?

 

[davidlee388]



shah you fiend, i had my eyes on that suit
i can rest a little easier knowing it was a dark navy and not a true black. If it doesnt work out for you let me know.

You're a sore loser man lol. Yoda said it's basically black