Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[dantebykiko]

Yep, up until AW05 Y's for men and YYPH were shown together, one after the other afaik. Not sure when it started though. AW05 also happens to be the last runway show for YFM.

What about the y's beijing show?

 

[davidlee388]



What about the y's beijing show?

You are both right.

The Beijing Y's Show in June 2008 was held in conjunction with Yohji Yamamoto Fund For Peace and the pieces were auctioned afterwards so technically the Runway pieces of that never made it to the shops for us mortals.

 

[esox]

Yes, I love this one too! Also trying to locate one in sz 4..! Like nahneun said, there were a few on Gilt some time ago, perhaps they will show up again.

so i am not the only one searching for one in a size 4!??

bad luck that i didnt know gilt at this time.

 

[asobu]



What about the y's beijing show?

You are both right.
The Beijing Y's Show in June 2008 was held in conjunction with Yohji Yamamoto Fund For Peace and the pieces were auctioned afterwards so technically the Runway pieces of that never made it to the shops for us mortals.

yeah, I meant "regular" YFM shows. The Beijing show is an exception as David points out. Compared to the YFM aw08 lookbook (and what I assume was sold in the stores), the pieces shown in Beijing seemed to be mostly reworked YYPH pieces. I think some of it was sold in stores though..? Like the flower print shirts etc. Anyway, for aw08 there was also a lookbook - the Beijing show done in conjunction with the women's pieces (also quite similar to the YYF iirc) was a one time off thing.

 

[dantebykiko]

while still on aw04 talk. one of my first yohji buys: y's heavy wool pants and y's wool felt coat. both bought around year ago before knowing season codes etc. i think £150 in total. now is the time that i finally start to feel relaxed wearing them... one year later.

 

[the shah]

"There is poetry and elegance to the way nomads dress. I want to capture that feeling and make it modern."

[Video][/video]

 

[HarukiUeda]

I'm back with another thrift item but this time it is an A.A.R. Yohji Yamamoto D'urban suit. From what I could google, this seems to be some sort of collaboration for an affordable line but I don't know much more than that; would anyone have more info? It seems to be one of his earliest collaborations. Unfortunately, this suit is tight on me (it is labeled as a Medium) and the sleeves seem short for a Yohji but the shoulders are slightly oversized and the trousers are somewhat egg shaped (looks like a typical early 1990’s Japanese suit). In terms of quality, it is all machine stitched and finished with a fused front but the construction was finished well. Overall, I think it lines up with the quality of a current Hugo Boss suit. But what I most like is the fabric which is 80% wool, 15% cotton, and 5% nylon (Yohji seems to really like combining wool cotton and nylon). It has a raw texture to it with the cotton clearly visible in-between the wool. Both fabric and construction were done in japan.







Now that I have the YYPH coat and shirt, I have been looking for some trousers to go with it so when I got my hands on this suit, I started comparing the measurements of the trousers with some ebay/y! listings and one thing that I noticed is that the trousers I got seem to match some of the more popular yyph trousers that get more bids. What worries me is that these trousers seems kind of normal for your typical 80's to mid-90's suit trousers, not something that is unique to Yohji or particularly difficult to find with other brands (during that time). Was it that Yohji influenced all of these designers and many people copied his silhouettes or was Yohji just following the general trend at that time. Admittedly, he does make really wide cut trousers and his hakamas are fairly exclusive to him but the the ones I see most often on the runway are quite normal and as my grandfather's closet seems to suggest, somewhat dated. If I were to get one pair of trousers from YYPH, what style should I be going for if I wanted something unique but not jarringly different?

 

[Auburn]

I think for one the silhouette of the trousers that you have now is not all that interesting. That is however due to them being from a "Yohji for businessmen" line. Pictures also don't really do the pants much justice, since a still image can't transfer the feeling of the fabric or convey how it looks in motion. I would just try to find a nice pair of wool gabardine trousers as a nice base to start with. There are also "weirder" trousers with interesting button placement. Unfortunately, I don't have the memory to point you towards specific seasons, but I know Ivwri and David both have a lot of interesting trousers which, at least to my eye, do not seem at all dated.

edit: I don't know how tall you are, but as you said the suit does look a little tight on you. I'd stick to things in a 4 or an L.

 

[slstr]

That suit looks great, Haruki. You gotta tell me where you're thrifting all this yohji!!
I know A.A.R doesn't have the best reputation, but that fabric is beautiful and the cut is pretty good too, if not a little conservative for yohji. I have heard the quality of that line is pretty crap though. Hope you got a good price for it

 

[Benesyed]

Wool gab. If you want interesting then perhaps something that has volume at the thighs and then tapers at the end.

Linen and cotton blends are good too, ESP if you want a jump on the summer. I think that suit had potential, out just needs to be exploited

 

[dantebykiko]

 

[HarukiUeda]

So here are the trousers. Waist 38cm, Thigh 36cm, Rise 40cm, Height 87cm, Leg opening 22cm.
.
The waist is very very tight on me (not wearable) so I am still looking for trousers. Is there any good new years sales in japan that may carry yyph at a steep discount? I know someone that is in japan and can possibly pick something up for me. Thanks for the help.

 

[xeraphim]

forget about steep discounts - you'll be hard-pressed to find anything remotely decent after the first few days of the first markdown.

 

[Benesyed]

Not the masters work but still a celebration of some interesting fit and fit play

 

[the shah]

Size 2 / 56% Cupro-44% Cotton / slightly oversized buttons / BNWT & extra button