Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[davidlee388]

A recent addition.






YYPH AW05 Look 38 Handstitched Blazer - ( HN-J70-120 ) - the black iteration of the vintage linen Runway piece. 90/10 wool/nylon blend, non-woven, boiled wool like. Size 2, sleeves + 2/3 body lined in cupro, 2 sliver bespoke thin metal closure buttons for a short, boxy silhoutte. 2 expandable pockets, buttonless sleeves. Close-up reveals exquisite handstitched details on edge of notch lapels and front panels creating a subtle 3-D effect.

YYPH AW02 Long Zipped Knit Vest - ( HM-K32-086 ) - ex Wire.Artist, dark navy in 90/10 wool/cashmere soft fabric. Size 4, long and slim fit, bright silver double riri zippers for closure variations. Huge collar allows a rollneck option.

YYPH SS09 Look 15 Leather Insert Pants ( HV-P07-114 ) - 100% wool, softer than 100 gab, size 3, huge waist and super baggy, front pleated. Belt loops, 2 back pocket flaps, and darts on knee side buttoned pockets in leather.

Y-3 Hejarklack Leather Hi-tops, CDG H+ Belt, Basic Tee

 

[Ivwri]

Always looking forward to these archival posts Kiko . One thing about Yohji's stuff that is not spoken about as much as his use of black and early 20th century influences is the crossover with a lot of African American culture as well. Quite inspiring in the way these forms and shapes can be so timeless and still represent a rebellious edge that a lot of designers struggle to get right.

 

[cupper]

Spoiler: YYPH and Y's for men AW 04 Runway Photos

 

[Benesyed]

Just acquired this YYPH piece from ebay courtesy of someone buying my margiela and a very helpful consult from our own david

Here is the tag code: HY-J25-101

According to david it's a SS05 peice from the runway. The price was absurd!

Runway pics:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[the shah]

i previously passed on this , i forgot who had it on SZ but i was many years ago before i had a single yohji

i love the **** details and would get it were it my size !

size2

 

[repp_fink]



I noticed a variation of it on Y! as well. The one I saw on Y! was a size 2, and had one pair of connecting tabs up near the shoulders instead of the elbows like your version. Sounds like it might be the one you saw as well. 

I own one of the variant jackets I think you're referring to -- it's similar to the one davidlee posted, but there are some interesting differences. You could think of it as the more "formal" variant, I suppose. It's unvented, with flap pockets instead of patch pockets, the buttons are black horn instead of metal, and there's no hood. The attachments at the elbows have been moved to the rear shoulder seams. There are also an extra set of attachments which I didn't see on davidlee's photos, at the rear hem about four inches each from the center seam, allowing the jacket to be pulled up behind as well as in front. Additionally, there are vertical hidden **** pockets parallel to the front darts, which I don't believe are present on the other version.

The fabric is a different composition and code (HN-J04-104) : 59% wool, 17% rayon, 12% linen, and 12% ramie. It's heavy stuff -- offhand, I'd say it's like a #8 or even #6 cotton duck -- with a pronounced weave. If you all are interested, I can take some photos during the week and post them to this thread.

 

[davidlee388]



I own one of the variant jackets I think you're referring to -- it's similar to the one davidlee posted, but there are some interesting differences. You could think of it as the more "formal" variant, I suppose. It's unvented, with flap pockets instead of patch pockets, the buttons are black horn instead of metal, and there's no hood. The attachments at the elbows have been moved to the rear shoulder seams. There are also an extra set of attachments which I didn't see on davidlee's photos, at the rear hem about four inches each from the center seam, allowing the jacket to be pulled up behind as well as in front. Additionally, there are vertical hidden **** pockets parallel to the front darts, which I don't believe are present on the other version.
The fabric is a different composition and code (HN-J04-104) : 59% wool, 17% rayon, 12% linen, and 12% ramie. It's heavy stuff -- offhand, I'd say it's like a #8 or even #6 cotton duck -- with a pronounced weave. If you all are interested, I can take some photos during the week and post them to this thread.

This is slowly becoming a AW05 sub-thread lol which I don't mind cos it's my favorite season, so many great Runway pieces that are also very wearable.

Please post a fit for your blazer. There is an identical piece ( I think ) to yours now on Y! right now that the seller reckons it's Look 42 but it's difficult to ascertain from the mainstream online images. Kiko has access to and post some very good alternative, detail images of AW05 so maybe he can post some more here....

Funny you said the parachute blazer iteration you have is more formal ( no hood, no patch pockets, different buttons etc ) in design and yet my and Arche's Look 41, more informal iteration is fabricated with a more formal 100% wool gab rather than a more utilitarian fabric. That's I guess makes Yohji such an interesting dress maker, not only anti-fit, but sometimes anti-fabric as well ... The predictable thing about Yohji is he's unpredictable

 

[esox]

found this ad today in arena magazine - 1987



+ suit arrived along with y's shirt that i got it from ebay. both are in fantastic condition and fabric, well the jacket pockets were still stitched on and i can easily say its brand new.

congrats to the suit. i really like it.

there is one iteration i even like more. did not see it in nature but would like to own one.
if someone want to sell a size 4.....?

 

[nahneun]

^ there were a lot of those on gilt before

 

[cupper]

reep_fink, we are all interested please do post them. It's always great to see the details and fit pics.

esox, that jacket is indeed beautiful. Do you guys know if Yohji san was saying goodbye with the SS09 show or was his continuation never in doubt?

 

[dantebykiko]

i'm pretty sure this is not one show but two. one for y's and one for yamamoto.

yyph aw04:


y's for men aw04:

 

[cupper]

Kiko you are right, there's even a photo where you can see the Y's logo on the reverse jacket. Vogue had the photos as one show and I was on auto mode when posted them.

 

[dantebykiko]

its the same on catwalking.com... maybe the shows were one after an other..

not sure if i posted the y's aw05 pitti show. so many great suits and white shirts... me want.

 

[asobu]



its the same on catwalking.com... maybe the shows were one after an other..

not sure if i posted the y's aw05 pitti show. so many great suits and white shirts... me want.

Yep, up until AW05 Y's for men and YYPH were shown together, one after the other afaik. Not sure when it started though. AW05 also happens to be the last runway show for YFM.

 

[asobu]



congrats to the suit. i really like it.

there is one iteration i even like more. did not see it in nature but would like to own one.
if someone want to sell a size 4.....? 

Yes, I love this one too! Also trying to locate one in sz 4..! Like nahneun said, there were a few on Gilt some time ago, perhaps they will show up again.