whnay.'s good taste thread

[mktitsworth]



quite good? given that I sneaked in a white shirt that's quite the compliment coming from :foo: =)

yes the last outfit has folded silk but it's vanda's kimono silk, ****'s like 1mm in thickness. folds like french crêpe!

yes that's the bane of skinny lapels. thanks don draper.

I wish my weight would change for once, I've been 220 lbs forever now and desperately try to gain... metabolism like a hummingbird.

I'm not a big fan of them. These are the skinniest lapels I own, and they are the only skinny lapels I own. I much prefer something that plays to the symmetries of the jacket.

How many calories are you taking in per day? 2500-3k is what you need just to maintain that weight from what I understand.

You curse it now, but you should pray that you keep it.

Once it's gone 'tis nigh upon impossible to get back.

 

[Coronaeus]

Thanks for the replies to my shirt queries.

I guess the source of my question concerning possible "formality" differences between solid and striped OCBDs comes from the fact that I find it more difficult to pair a striped OCBD with the odd jackets I own, than I do with solids. Because my odd jackets tend to have texture and pattern, I worry that striped OCBDs will clash unflatteringly, especially when a tie is added to the mix.

I'd love to see good examples of a striped OCBD and tie with a textured/patterned odd jacket if anyone has some to share.

 

[Cantabrigian]



Thanks for the replies to my shirt queries.  

I guess the source of my question concerning possible "formality" differences between solid and striped OCBDs comes from the fact that I find it more difficult to pair a striped OCBD with the odd jackets I own, than I do with solids.  Because my odd jackets tend to have texture and pattern, I worry that striped OCBDs will clash unflatteringly, especially when a tie is added to the mix.

I'd love to see good examples of a striped OCBD and tie with a textured/patterned odd jacket if anyone has some to share.  

I think you were on the right track already and wouldn't go out of your way to wear a striped OCBD just to wear one.

A prominently patterned sportscoat generally calls for a quiet everything else - solid shirt, solid tie. But you don't want the accesories to be too formal which is why some texture is nice - hence oxford cloth / knit ties.

 

[NOBD]



I have one. I kinda like it.

It's white and I'll wear it with a heavy blazer or a flannel suit. It's formal enough for either of those occasions. I like the texture and it's ever-so slightly warmer for those rare occasions where I'm somewhat dressed up but outside for a bit.

If I got another, it would be blue-white striped.
I think that this is an instance in which etymology isn't a very good guide to current useage.

The casualness of an open collared shirt is more than enough to overwhelm the difference in formality between collar styles.

I generally dislike seeing collar points. So unless you have a GDLstyle cutaway buttondown, I actually prefer a spread collar in this instance.

Provided, of course, it's a spread collar that's firm enough to not crumple or fall down.

I have four! White, light blue (royal oxford), blue-white striped and blue-white gingham. Versatile shirts for me.

 

[Cantabrigian]

I think one of the big reasons why biz caz sucks so much is because mainstream retailers haven't gotten beyond suit-appropriate shirts / shoes. Or if they have, they haven't done it well.

 

[recondite]

S., regardless of how "fuzzy" you think the jacket is, it is a hard-finished worsted--not a handwoven tweed. That is not a matter of opinion. Also, "fuzzy" or not, the color and pattern are exceedingly meek for an odd jacket. So, yes, the critique most certainly applies.

Dark grey and charcoal are more formal colors for worsted suiting. Again, that is fact, not opinion. Hence, when you wear dark grey trousers like that, they look like they come from a suit since color is often the only thing to distinguish a pair of odd trousers from suit trousers.

Oh, please!

"Odd" trousers by definition are most likely to be navy, dark grey, or charcoal, because the trousers are "odd" when they are paired with a jacket for which they were not designed, as opposed to cashmere striped morning trousers which appear to be "odd" or contrasting with a morning coat, but are in fact constructed to be worn as an integral part of morning wear. And so too, a buff waist coat is not "odd" when worn with morningwear, but it is "odd" when worn under a navy suit or tweed sport coat.

Apparently, you are just making these definitions as you go along.

Take away navy and charcoal or black trousers from a wardrobe and any man, who wishes to camouflage a larger than average posterior, would be near powerless to do so.

This type of dogma is not only useless, but ridiculous and bordering on an unhealthy vanity, as if all should dress to your standards despite it being a terrible look for them.

Navy and charcoal trousers paired with a lighter sports jacket are IDEAL for a larger pear shaped body, which is now a common body type given the typical sedentary Western lifestyle.

FYI: it is a great look if you are shorter in stature as well, since the darker trousers will make your legs look longer if paired with dark shoes and even a dark vest or sweater under a lighter sport coat which will make your upper body seem proportionately larger and taller.

For the same reason, a lighter camel hair jacket or grey tweed overcoat would be better for a shorter than average person than navy or black cashmere, but why you accept this idea for an overcoat and put it aside for a sport jacket, is something only you understand.

Cheers!

 

[TheFoo]

Navy, charcoal and black are exactly the odd trousers you should never own. Particularly black. And a black cashmere overcoat is even a possibility you'd entertain? Honestly, it sounds like you draw your sensibility from late 90's Banana Republic.

This post is the must egregious piece of defiantly ignorant nonsense I've seen here in a long time.

 

[zeero3]



No, there is no room in my world for a faux tweed jacket with a subtle pattern.

:foo: While we have your attention, I've been doing a ton of research for my first tweed/tweedish odd jacket. Any suggestions for the pattern of a first odd jacket that would be most versatile and tasteful? I was planning on dark brown herringbone (with intentions of a medium brown w red windowpane to follow).....

 

[TheFoo]

Wait, you're a troll aren't you? Well congrats--you got me.

 

[TheFoo]



:foo: While we have your attention, I've been doing a ton of research for my first tweed/tweedish odd jacket. Any suggestions for the pattern of a first odd jacket that would be most versatile and tasteful? I was planning on dark brown herringbone (with intentions of a medium brown w red windowpane to follow).....

Based on that description, I'd go for the latter over the former. Tweed is an inherently bolder and more casual cloth. Embrace it and don't bother trying to make it more subtle. The great thing about a classic, boldly patterned tweed is that it is so damned easy to pair with things. The more barely-there hints of random colors in it the better.

 

[aravenel]



Based on that description, I'd go for the latter over the former. Tweed is an inherently bolder and more casual cloth. Embrace it and don't bother trying to make it more subtle. The great thing about a classic, boldly patterned tweed is that it is so damned easy to pair with things. The more barely-there hints of random colors in it the better.

I don't know that that would be a good first odd jacket--it's hard to wear a distinctive jacket like that often without it looking like, well, you only have one jacket.

How about a classic herringbone in brown/tan or grey?

Edit: Not sure if this is OPs first odd jacket or first tweed jacket. If it's the latter, then sure, go for the FU tweed.

 

[gdl203]



I have four! White, light blue (royal oxford), blue-white striped and blue-white gingham. Versatile shirts for me.

I probably have 30, a ton of plain blues, whites, stripes of various shades, even checks. I am surprised there is even any sort of debate about using oxford cloth for a non-BD shirt. I could see maybe a little bit of a debate if someone suggested French cuffs... But a spread collar oxford shirt is now matter for disapproval ?

 

[NOBD]

I've lost count of things disapproved.

 

[zeero3]



I don't know that that would be a good first odd jacket--it's hard to wear a distinctive jacket like that often without it looking like, well, you only have one jacket.

How about a classic herringbone in brown/tan or grey?

Edit: Not sure if this is OPs first odd jacket or first tweed jacket. If it's the latter, then sure, go for the FU tweed.

That's exactly one of the reasons why I was considering the more sedate option--because it is my first "keeper" odd jacket (I'm trying to get rid of an abomination of a light grey herringbone that struggles to breathe as a versatile odd jacket).

 

[TheFoo]



I don't know that that would be a good first odd jacket--it's hard to wear a distinctive jacket like that often without it looking like, well, you only have one jacket.

How about a classic herringbone in brown/tan or grey?

Edit: Not sure if this is OPs first odd jacket or first tweed jacket. If it's the latter, then sure, go for the FU tweed.

I dunno, think an "FU tweed" is exactly the way tweed should be. I'm not talking some crazy purple and green and orange dreamcoat. He mentioned a red on brown check, which is a pretty established staple.

But a spread collar oxford shirt is now matter for disapproval ?

Well, it's definitely an oddity, no?