• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Explore longtime Styleforum sponsor John Elliott’s Once-a-Year Black Friday Sale. From now through Cyber Monday, enjoy 30% off sitewide and up to 70% off on further markdowns. Shop premium Japanese denim, signature Mainline French terry essentials, expertly crafted leather, and more.

    Join the conversation in their thread here.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Where is the line drawn on when a suit jacket can be worn as a sport coat?

2711383

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2017
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
So I understand that suit jackets aren't supposed to be worn standalone because they look off without the trousers. My confusion comes from looking at Natalino's website and seeing that they essentially market all their suit jackets as "sport jackets".

So I guess my question is, why can this be a sport jacket but the top half of this Spier and Mackay suit can't? They both have jetted pockets, similarly sized lapels, etc.. Is it because of the sheen from the weave of the S&M suit?
 

Using Technology

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
354
Reaction score
61
I believe the rule of thumb is the more formal a suit looks, the less you can wear it as separates and conversely the more casual a suit is the more you can. This goes for both the fabric (shiny worsted wool is formal vs patterned tweed or linen as casual) and also details like jetted pockets vs. patch pockets.

In your examples, I agree the Natalino seems pretty close to an orphaned suit jacket to my eye. That said, it does have a herringbone pattern that makes it more casual than the S&M
 

Using Technology

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
354
Reaction score
61
That makes sense. Thank you!
No prob! Someone else here will probably have a more detailed explanation, but in general I think a flat untextured color doesn't really work for sports coats or wearing a suit jacket as separate. You want something textured (linen, tweed) or patterned (windowpane, herringbone, etc.). Obvious exception is a pinstripe which would look silly without the pants...
 

maxalex

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
1,255
Reaction score
1,047
I’m guessing those examples are flap pockets with the flaps tucked in (probably not yet unbasted), so the underlying jets are visible. Actual jetted pockets don’t have flaps and are considered ultra formal, like a tux.

Regardless, in these days where anything goes, whether to wear a suit jacket as a separate is more a matter of personal taste. Also where you live. Americans obsess about orphan jackets more than here in Europe, for example.

Better to think more about how the jacket goes with your other gear. I personally would never wear a worsted navy super 120s suit jacket with chinos and chukkas; that would just look odd to me, and not in a good way. But I might wear that suit jacket with solaro wool dress trousers and cordovan loafers, or with grey flannel trousers.
 

mhip

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
9,884
Reaction score
10,623
Also where you live. Americans obsess about orphan jackets more than here in Europe
I can tell you here in Southern California, I'd be shocked if I ran across someone who would have a clue about it.
It's a big country with a lot of jeans and flip flops...
 

RobertSoren

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
23
Reaction score
13
The question might be better framed as WHY does it look off without the matching trousers? Because you're pairing it with the wrong pant?

Pair fancy tailored jacket with equally fancy trousers
Or sporty jacket with sporty trousers

It's much simpler to buy the matching set (a suit) then to try to effectively pull off these combinations (although not that difficult).
 

Featured Sponsor

Visible Pick Stitching on Lapels and Pockets

  • It’s a mark of quality and craftsmanship

  • I like it when it’s subtle

  • I don’t like visible stitching

  • Doesn’t matter to me


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
518,037
Messages
10,703,587
Members
227,880
Latest member
phylliswayne
Top