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What are the best shirting fabrics?

pglover19

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except for acorn,Shirting mills do not sell direct to consumers. Acorn has many qualities of fabric. some good, some that are awful.

there are no distributors in the US, who sell to the consumer.
there are fabric stores that sell to the consumer, but those stores usually do not know where the fabric was woven.

the best assortment of shirting available to the consumer are at tip top, beckenstein, and mood. all are in NYC.
they will not send swatches.

does your shirtmaker not have fabrics to choose from?

does your shirtmaker make the shirts on site? or are they made at a factory somewhere else.
FYI some factories will not cut 36" fabric.

fabric yields, vary depending on the cutter/cutting system.

my cutter can cut a 15.5 x34 shirt using 1.625 yards.
the factory that makes shirts for me "wants me to send" 2.25 for the same set of measurements..

Alumo is excellent. I buy from Grandi & Rubenilli, Testa is also a favorite. I buy albini/Thomas mason through a distributor, or through the secondary market.


My local shirtmaker has fabric, but is very limited and not my style. My style is more contemporary/modern. He does all the cutting and making of the shirt onsite. However; after 3 shirts he still does not have my template correct. So I am still working with him to make me a perfect shirt.
 

dragon8

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Thanks for the quick response. Is there a certain line within Alumo to look at? Also where can I find a book that has all of their fabric? Additionally where is the best place online to purchase Alumo fabric?


alumo's entire line is good. Can't go wrong.
 

Hirsh

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no rep!

there are a few shirtmakers who buy and stock their fabric.
I plan to get the swatch book from them in the near future.

sadly, the money earmarked for fabric, had to go into my new space.
I did buy some buttons, and found a great resource for printed cotton.

I also found a resource that can make bedding in shirting patterns.
very high quality.. need to gauge demand for this. not even sure of pricing, but think
sferra or frette quality.

I recently picked up about 350 assorted shirt lengths, from a factory that was closing out fabric.
lots of sport shirts. mostly Italian goods, some from Portugal. some?????? good deals on these!


I like the sound of Alumo bedding v much indeed!

Please could you pm me if this becomes possible?

Thnx:)
 

Shirtmaven

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I like the sound of Alumo bedding v much indeed!

Please could you pm me if this becomes possible?

Thnx:)


recently met with the head of sales at Alumo
bought a number of things for stock and received the swatch books
even picked up a few more engineered pleats for formal shirts.

the swatch book is classic. they do stock some seasonal patterns as well.

the fabrics are expensive, but the quality is solid.
most of the line is in 100/2 and 120/2.
expensive compared to other mills.
but
the fabric is dense and well constructed.
no games involving compact yarns and resin finishes.

worth the price as the shirts will last a long time.

the bedding project could only be made in a facility that has very wide looms.
i don't think alumo has these looms
My italian source will turn out a beautiful product.
 

Hirsh

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recently met with the head of sales at Alumo
bought a number of things for stock and received the swatch books
even picked up a few more engineered pleats for formal shirts.

the swatch book is classic. they do stock some seasonal patterns as well.

the fabrics are expensive, but the quality is solid.
most of the line is in 100/2 and 120/2.
expensive compared to other mills.
but
the fabric is dense and well constructed.
no games involving compact yarns and resin finishes.

worth the price as the shirts will last a long time.

the bedding project could only be made in a facility that has very wide looms.
i don't think alumo has these looms
My italian source will turn out a beautiful product.


Which mill do your Italian shirtings come from?

Sleeping on Thomas Mason shirting bedding would be gorgeous, although I'd still prefer the Alumo 100s to be honest:)
 

Gianvittorio

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Riva, Monti, Canclini, Thomas Mason, Albini... and all egyptian cotton. But actually i don't know where to buy...i choose the cotton fabric to my shirtmaker folders....
 

SartodiNapoli

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My vote goes jointly to Carlo Riva, Alumo and the best DJA shirtings:)

You got very nice taste as Anna Mattuozzo told me in person about you.

I hope you feel better btw.

I will chose Riva and then some Alumo, not all.
 

qelfulres

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Adding to the above Grandi & Rubinelli, Bonfanti, Sic Tess, G&R is hard to beat in terms of value for money.
29.gif
 
Last edited:

SartodiNapoli

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Yes, even has some random good lines, the shrinkage huge compared with the rest. We had to add some extra ease due to it.
 

VRaivio

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Pglover19, the very word shirting, perhaps best popularised by Alan Flusser in his many books, means a shirt fabric. No need for "shirting fabric" or "suiting fabric" and so on.

As for the best, well, Carlo Riva's name is thrown in the air often, but their shirtings are hard to come by unless you buy a Kiton shirt. Alumo is always great, Thomas Mason has a nice range.

The best fabric is the one that serves your intended use best, while also ageing nicely and bringing pleasant sensations when worn and handled. Even superior weaving technology is just marketing if the end result displeases intended use.
 

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