Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[patrickBOOTH]

Thank you, sir.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

its filmnoirbuff...he said it makes u look like a sanitation worker

I shall have to henceforth refer to my new brown hopsack sport coat as a, "garbage jacket." I think that Mr. Genuardi actually did rather well, but rules are rules.

serge is woven using a worsted warp and a woollen weft. Creates the distinct texture.

A "Prunelle weave" gives cloth a twill appearance but isn't a twill.

Slight variations of weaving and yarn structure define the differences.
Hopsack is a plain weave, difference is that it is two yarns woven over two yarns. Plan weave is one over one.

Thank you for explaining that. Just what in the Hell serge is had heretofore eluded me. I think that description fits with the feel of the navy Bateman Ogden Apollo cloth (AA10, I believe) that I recently commissioned a blazer in and is described by the merchant as, "serge." It certainly fit my sensibilities at any rate: little or no sheen with a little woolly roughness.

 

[lordsuperb]

I shall have to henceforth refer to my new brown hopsack sport coat as a, "garbage jacket." I think that Mr. Genuardi actually did rather well, but rules are rules.

More context is needed. Hopsack works great as a sport coat but may be too rustic when made into a suit.

 

[JGARY]

I have a navy suit from Steed that they referred to as a “hopsack” (it’s from the Botany book, but I can’t remember the number), and it doesn’t look rustic at all. I occasionally use the jacket separately, but it really is too smooth to be ideal for that purpose— not that anyone really notices.

Steed also made me a navy blazer from the Botany book. It’s a twill with distinct ridges. I assume it’s a serge since they recommended it for a blazer, but who knows...

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gents,

I really enjoyed the past 2-3 pages; this is not The Cloth Thread, this is The Cloth Academy!

Congrats to each and everyone of you!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bromley]

I remember that vaguely, owing only to the garbage man reference. I have still yet to see a garbage man in a hopsack suit, though I am not in NYC or another major market...

I'm not a Garbage Man, but I'm a garbage man, and I wear a hopsack suit.

 

[The Chai]

I think the precise term that was used was ‘hopsack cloth has a sanitation worker handle’

 

[Despos]

The other metaphor was navy jacket/grey trouser as quintessential "security guard" look. Actually had a client decline ordering grey trousers with a navy jacket on that premise. He had read it here.

 

[JGARY]

The other metaphor was navy jacket/grey trouser as quintessential "security guard" look. Actually had a client decline ordering grey trousers with a navy jacket on that premise. He had read it here.

You should have told him that he’ll be ok in blue/gray unless he adds a fake badge to the outfit. Then all bets are off.

 

[Mr. Six]

I shall have to henceforth refer to my new brown hopsack sport coat as a, "garbage jacket." I think that Mr. Genuardi actually did rather well, but rules are rules.

Navy hopsack is for sanitation worker (wearing his Sunday best), brown is for farmer.

I don't know why you think the first element is a factor for cloth choice but if that gets you off, then awesome. And if the second point reads "stuble" then yeah, it's a good fabric choice. If you meant "subtle" then wearing hopsack for a suit is a good way to subtly place oneself as a sanitation worker wearing his Sunday best.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

We need FNB back on Style Forum.

 

[lordsuperb]

We need FNB back on Style Forum.

He would cosign a purple cashmere jacket.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Actually I think he is here under the pseudonym "@Riva"

 

[lordsuperb]

Haha did the somewhat douche responses give it away?

 

[paborden]

I had a crazy idea, don't know how I feel about it.

A camel flannel suit - https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/classic-flannel/products/370g-camel-fox-flannel

Sometimes I have these urges where I try to find something similar but less crazy. Like, sometimes I want a navy velvet suit and then I think, nah, better to do a navy corduroy suit. This might be one of these times.