Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

^ This. Density of the weave plays a huge role. So does the cut of the garment. Closely cut garments tend to wear hotter, while loosely cut items are a little cooler.

Yet tailors from Naples still miss this logic .

 

[Alocin]

Hi all,

I’ve never posted in this thread but have lurked for a while now.

I’m thinking of having my first MTM commission for 3-4 season wear.

I was thinking of a light-ish to mid grey wool suit since I have charcoal already; I would like it made up of something on the lighter end of weight as I run hot. I think I would want to stick to the range of 12oz or below. I also would prefer something with some visual texture, so no very smooth worsteds.

As mentioned above however I know weave is also important. I live near SF but work in the city so at work it is usually no hotter than 70’s with a breeze in the dead of summer.

@Mr. Six has given me some very good suggestions and a few that have caught my eye are the finmeresco sw2723, Harrison fine classic 46727 and dugdale 8960.

Apologies for the essay but hopefully I could get some assistance!

Sorry edit: I should also mention I work at a wealth management firm so something that could fit in a not-so-strict business environment would be necessary.

 

[jdp234]

Hi all,

I’ve never posted in this thread but have lurked for a while now.

I’m thinking of having my first MTM commission for 3-4 season wear.

I was thinking of a light-ish to mid grey wool suit since I have charcoal already; I would like it made up of something on the lighter end of weight as I run hot. I think I would want to stick to the range of 12oz or below. I also would prefer something with some visual texture, so no very smooth worsteds.

As mentioned above however I know weave is also important. I live near SF but work in the city so at work it is usually no hotter than 70’s with a breeze in the dead of summer.

@Mr. Six has given me some very good suggestions and a few that have caught my eye are the finmeresco sw2723, Harrison fine classic 46727 and dugdale 8960.

Apologies for the essay but hopefully I could get some assistance!

Sorry edit: I should also mention I work at a wealth management firm so something that could fit in a not-so-strict business environment would be necessary.

Can't speak from owning a garment made up but based on looking at swatches -- so grain of salt -- the greys in the Fine Classics book seem right up your alley for this. The Steed guys like that book a lot, fwiw. Other books they pulled for me to look at on a vaguely similar request (biz suiting in the 11-12 range) were H&S Intercity, Lesser 11/12, and a couple Yorkshire Textiles books that I don't know the name on. The Fine Classics book had the most texture of the options, though.

 

[Alocin]

Can't speak from owning a garment made up but based on looking at swatches -- so grain of salt -- the greys in the Fine Classics book seem right up your alley for this. The Steed guys like that book a lot, fwiw. Other books they pulled for me to look at on a vaguely similar request (biz suiting in the 11-12 range) were H&S Intercity, Lesser 11/12, and a couple Yorkshire Textiles books that I don't know the name on. The Fine Classics book had the most texture of the options, though.

Thank you!

Yeah I was suggested both of those as well, but if I remember, the Lesser’s all seemed to be a little too dark for what I was looking for, just getting through the Intercity now.

I’ll be sure to see if I can find those Yorkshire books.

 

[JGARY]

I have a dark gray sharkskin Steed suit out of the Fine Classics book and I love it. I scrounged around and can’t find the number, but It sounds like you are looking for something a shade lighter anyway.

 

[Alocin]

I have a dark gray sharkskin Steed suit out of the Fine Classics book and I love it. I scrounged around and can’t find the number, but It sounds like you are looking for something a shade lighter anyway.

If you happen to find it I’m sure it would still help! I could look around the number to see if there are any lighter shades in the range.

 

[lordsuperb]

If you happen to find it I’m sure it would still help! I could look around the number to see if there are any lighter shades in the range.

Harrison Oyster

 

[JGARY]

If you happen to find it I’m sure it would still help! I could look around the number to see if there are any lighter shades in the range.

I just looked back through my phone and I had a picture of 47509. That must be it.

 

[Alocin]

Harrison Oyster

Will look as soon as I get home!

I just looked back through my phone and I had a picture of 47509. That must be it.

Awesome thank you!

 

[Concordia]

Harrison Oyster

A good range but beefier than Fine Classics.

 

[Mr. Six]

I didn’t put Oyster on the list for Alocin because of the weight. But it is a great book for suit fabrics.

 

[Alocin]

I’m not positive, but I think the winter weight RJ suit I have was made with Harrison’s oyster or something extremely similar made by RJ, to a Birdseye that is in that book.

And if that is the case I love the fabric but it is definitely too heavy for me, for an all season at least.

Thank you all for the guidance!

 

[Bromley]

Spoiler: Earlier post

I always struggle in the heat, and we're really in it now. Linen has always been my go-to shirting for hot weather, but I'm pretty excited to finally give this one a try...

I've been curious about this Acorn cloth (Leno) for a while, but the colors options in the book all look pretty ugly to me (white is fine, but looks very see-through).


That illustration depicting the weave? The cloth really looks like that up-close-- I got to inspect it with a jeweler's eyeglass because I'm interested in boring things.

Recently I noticed a lighter, more textured "Sky" (blue) available on the Acorn site, and ordered a length right away.



It's really lovely, and about as see-through as any linen of the same weight and color. Acorn doesn't make the finest cloths, but they have some good, interesting stuff. Their wool/cotton tattersalls are great, and I liked my first linen/bamboo blend so much that I'm having another made up:


What do you all wear to stay cool in the summer? What am I missing out on?

Finally had this cloth made up. Received the shirt a few months ago. Had a few warm days to give it a try, so I did.

Reporting back that it is indeed very cool-wearing and not see-through at all. BUT it's kind of ugly. I'd hoped the texture of the weave might play off kind of like an oxford or something, but it doesn't. Instead it looks like a shirt that would have a garish contrasting cloth inside the collar, cuffs, and placket (not my thing, but if you like it then I am glad for you). I'm sure I'll wear this all summer and love it, but in the future I will stick with the reliable, ungodly-heavy linens that I love.

 

[ericgereghty]

Anybody ever have Dugdale's Crommelin linen made up in a jacket? Got a pair of Shibumi braces made up in the cloth, and I imagine it would make a really fun, tweedy type of summer sport coat...provided one could tolerate the weight.

 

[kolecho]

Anybody ever have Dugdale's Crommelin linen made up in a jacket? Got a pair of Shibumi braces made up in the cloth, and I imagine it would make a really fun, tweedy type of summer sport coat...provided one could tolerate the weight.

Not Crommelin, but Paone is making up a Dugdale Lisburn linen suit for me. Lisburn is more porous than typical tightly woven Irish linen. Drapes well. Worth a try.

FWIW I have a Solbiati 450g linen jacket which I use for shoulder seasons in HK. Not for the dog days of summer outdoors for sure but then nothing works in 30C plus 80% humidity.