Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

In addition to Crispaire and the light Fresco, the lightest Finmerescos have a more tropical appearance than normal Fresco. The finer weave also makes it less scratchy, which avoids a prominent source of discomfort in 100-degree heat.

 

[edmorel]

What you are looking for doesnt really exist, unfortunately. NYC summer is going to be hot, and open weave or not you are likely to be uncomfortable. Your best bet honestly is to have the suit cut a little on the fuller side, which will increase the air circulation better than a more fitted silhouette.

I, on the other hand, suffer tremendously in the heat irrespective of what I wear, so I stay in the AC...

I think something that often gets missed in the discussions of fabrics is what you mention here, when its really hot, it doesn't matter what your suit fabric is, you are going to be hot. If the weather is such that you are hot wearing a tank top and jorts, it doesn't matter if you are wearing a 2oz sweat wicking fresco, you are going to be hot. The jacket will have innards/lining, you'll have a shirt and probably a tie on so if its 85-90 degrees in NYC, your suit fabric is pretty much irrelevant. Obviously a 17oz flannel will wear warmer then a 9oz worsted but for summer I would get whatever fabric I like and realize that if I am walking in the city in August with the jacket on, I will be sweating. Easier/better to try and avoid the heat.

 

[ATWright]

Am in the process of clearing out some of my, and a friend's, ULs. If anybody is interested, have a peek at the link below. Will be adding some more lengths soon. Highlights include some escorial.

https://www.styleforum.net/buyandsell/cloth-escorial-mohair-flannel-etc.5099/

 

[Mr. Six]

Anyone have any recommendations for warm-weather suiting (think NYC warm in the summer) that ISN'T an open weave? I've tried Minnis fresco and am not a fan of the look for suits. I realize by not using an open weave I'm sacrificing some heat resistance. I was considering Smith Woolens Blue Riband, which is 10 oz., but is there something lighter? I'm looking for boring charcoal/dark grey or dark navy, either solid or with a faint herringbone pattern.

My preference is for wool but I'm open to wool/mohair blends as long as the mohair isn't overwhelming. I had one mohair suit and it was stiff AF but the mohair content was pretty high.

Take a look at some of the lighter suitings form Caccioppoli and Drapers. I have suits from each and they do fine in warm weather. Although what edmorel says is also true.

 

[PCK1]

I had a drapers navy wool/mohair blend made up recently that came out great...i think it was 10 oz

 

[etostano]

H&S Cool Breeze is the only suit I have that isn't completely miserable in NYC summer ... though ultimately I agree with edmorel

 

[PCK1]

and then there was LINEN

 

[jssdc]

I'd just add to ed's points that half or quarter lining makes a big difference for me in summer.

 

[jonathanS]

I'd just add to ed's points that half or quarter lining makes a big difference for me in summer.

Do you find a difference between half lined / quarter lined or are you saying the lining vs some sort of unlined?

 

[jssdc]

Do you find a difference between half lined / quarter lined or are you saying the lining vs some sort of unlined?

The latter

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Some people asks me for staple navy and grey from Carlo Barbera, now it´s the time.

Offers on this S130´s navy, I am getting the upper one for myself as well

And this grey with 10% of cashmere.

 

[lordsuperb]

Does anyone have thoughts on when a bellied vs straight lapel is appropriate?


Bellied Lapel

Straight Lapel

 

[The Chai]

Does anyone have thoughts on when a bellied vs straight lapel is appropriate?


Bellied Lapel

Straight Lapel

IMO abit of belly looks nicer on a peak lapel. Belly also looks good if you want to make the jacket look ‘soft’ and more relaxed. Straight lapels look more sleek and formal

 

[aristoi bcn]

I think the straightness of the lapel has nothing to do with formality and it's a question of style.

I don't like bellied lapels at all, so for me tailors who normally do them are a big no, but only because I don't like the style. Some tailors are flexible with this, but I'd rather go with tailors who normally do straight lapels, both on SB and DB.

 

[The Chai]

I think the straightness of the lapel has nothing to do with formality and it's a question of style.

I don't like bellied lapels at all, so for me tailors who normally do them are a big no, but only because I don't like the style. Some tailors are flexible with this, but I'd rather go with tailors who normally do straight lapels, both on SB and DB.

You're right, it doesn't but to my eye straight lapels do look more sleek...I'm starting to prefer them too