Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

Shetland is both a place and a type of sheep, and NOT as far as I am aware, a protected appellation. So, I think if you were sufficiently inclined, you could raise Shetland sheep in Spain, and make Spanish, Shetland Tweed.

Harris Tweed is all home woven. I believe Harris merely requires UK sourced virgin wool made into yarn in the Outer Hebrides- I don't think a breed is specified. I don't know if anyone makes shetland yarn applicable for usage within the home looms used by Harris weavers - if so, you could conceivably have a tweed that is both a Harris and Shetland. Calling it a Harris Shetland Tweed would result in one being stuck by lightning by the Harris Tweed Authority - https://www.harristweed.org/

Harris will be coarse, but I am not sure how many universal claims can be made about Shetland given that it could be anything from home woven to factory made of Shetland wool

Thanks for your answer.

So theoretically you can do Harris Tweed made cashmere yarn and worsted Shetland.

Interesting.

 

[Alan Bee]

Today we have on a chocolate brown sport coat in basketweave wool from Caccioppoli. Fabric is 350grams. Beneath is a summery turquoise pop-over linen shirt from Solbiati.

Enjoy the clip ....

 

[marcodalondra]

Got this at the end:
top is a Serge fabric for a DB Blazer - Harrisons Oyster 75750 and bottom is a Smith Woollens Luxury Flannel SW2511X

 

[aristoi bcn]

Marco, I saw the picture you posted on instagram. Isn't that serge intended as a suiting? Maybe in a close-up it'll show more texture but I'd rather go for the Fox serge

 

[marcodalondra]

Hi Nestor,

I have compared them side to side and the Oyster Serge has slightly more texture, read ribs...

 

[Alan Bee]

Today we feature a summer hopsack blazer. Fabric is from Italian mill Cerrutti and at the suggestion of my previous tailor (who has been replaced).

It is a true summer blue and listed at 260 grams. The fabric hasn't worn well and I certainly would not recommend it. It has visible frays at friction points particularly the elbows. It has been long earmarked for replacement and will be subbed out of the rotation by a summer jacket being made in Smiths Finmeresco's Mock Leno in a similar color.

Beneath I have on a pair of cream summer gabardine trousers cut from a Zegna summer book listed at 290 grams. Beautiful fabric with an amazing hand and incredible drape. Highly recommended.

Enjoy the clip

 

[brax]

Yesterday I took delivery of three commissions and one more is in the pipeline. With that said, I still have a long, long way to go:

 

[WillingToLearn]

Please tell us about the barley corn. And a question about barley corn to the broader audience - is there such thing as light weight barley corn? I like the look/texture, especially in a brown, but I am just done with 12+oz. jacketings since I wear them primarily indoors and I run hot.

 

[Newcomer]

My lord...

 

[Concordia]

I have an earlier edition of the barleycorn. It is soft but strong-- and definitely over 16oz. Maybe 20-- not sure.

Options for lighter barleycorns could be in the Lamlana book, and maybe Worsted Alsport or Glorious 12th. I don't know if there are any proper <12oz tweeds in that pattern.

 

[brax]

Please tell us about the barley corn. And a question about barley corn to the broader audience - is there such thing as light weight barley corn? I like the look/texture, especially in a brown, but I am just done with 12+oz. jacketings since I wear them primarily indoors and I run hot.

It is 650g. When I showed it to my tailor, he said that he knew immediately what he wanted to do with it. He nixed my idea of a odd jacket and said that he wanted to do a coat inspired by this picture. He showed me the collar in a second picture that I cannot find and it is a monster that can be pulled up to protect against most any winter storm.

 

[P-K-L]

Today we feature a summer hopsack blazer. Fabric is from Italian mill Cerrutti and at the suggestion of my previous tailor (who has been replaced).

It is a true summer blue and listed at 260 grams. The fabric hasn't worn well and I certainly would not recommend it. It has visible frays at friction points particularly the elbows. It has been long earmarked for replacement and will be subbed out of the rotation by a summer jacket being made in Smiths Finmeresco's Mock Leno in a similar color.

Beneath I have on a pair of cream summer gabardine trousers cut from a Zegna summer book listed at 290 grams. Beautiful fabric with an amazing hand and incredible drape. Highly recommended.

Enjoy the clip

Does your boy-operator know that you do not get 1.000.000 views with these clips?
I'd be disappointed

 

[ATWright]

Please tell us about the barley corn. And a question about barley corn to the broader audience - is there such thing as light weight barley corn? I like the look/texture, especially in a brown, but I am just done with 12+oz. jacketings since I wear them primarily indoors and I run hot.

Try W Bill Phoenix. They have a few nice barley corns, including a brown which I was wearing earlier today. Weight is something like 9oz. Pretty smooth, so doesn't trap heat like other fabrics.

 

[marcodalondra]

And this...

 

[Concordia]

Looking good, Mr Bannon!

It is 650g. When I showed it to my tailor, he said that he knew immediately what he wanted to do with it. He nixed my idea of a odd jacket and said that he wanted to do a coat inspired by this picture. He showed me the collar in a second picture that I cannot find and it is a monster that can be pulled up to protect against most any winter storm.