Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[edmorel]

Left-over Brisa?

never saw the Brisa in person so can't say, this is dark grey PoW with a light blue overcheck.

 

[gdl203]

Are these too basic for the fabulous lordsuperb?

View attachment 832372

View attachment 832373

Lamlana is so much nicer than Phoenix. Get it while you still can.

 

[marcodalondra]

Are you looking for jacket, trousers, suit, coat?

Traditional DB Blazer.

 

[Concordia]

Their worsteds book has a larger collection. Otherwise, Harrisons Oyster would be my first stop.

 

[Concordia]

never saw the Brisa in person so can't say, this is dark grey PoW with a light blue overcheck.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/thelondonlounge/5468014219/

 

[edmorel]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/thelondonlounge/5468014219/

yeah, looks like that is the same thing.

 

[lordsuperb]

Lamlana is so much nicer than Phoenix. Get it while you still can.

The Phoenix bunch screams summer weight but the texture says other wise.

yeah, looks like that is the same thing.

Which begs the question, does Alden really design the fabrics for the lounge?

 

[marcodalondra]

Their worsteds book has a larger collection. Otherwise, Harrisons Oyster would be my first stop.

Thanks, I could not see online something that looked like a serge on the Oyster book but I'll try to get a sample sent tomorrow

 

[Alan Bee]

Smith Steadfast (14/15oz), it there is anything left.
Otherwise, there are some excellent 13oz fabrics in the Harrisons Oyster book.
Also, the worsted book at Fox has some traditional navy serges and hopsacks, a few of which are in the 15oz territory.

Thanks Concordia. Can you point me to a specific cloth(s) in the Oyster book? I have the complete travel set.

Regards, Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

Gentlemen,

Can someone who's had one tailored offer a view on Lesser 8/9oz tropical worsted suiting? I like the feel of the cloth but I am concerned about drape and more importantly durability. I have the unfortunate tendency to wear out trouser crotches when the fabric is not sufficiently sturdy.

Thank you in advance

Alan Bee

 

[Concordia]

Thanks Concordia. Can you point me to a specific cloth(s) in the Oyster book? I have the complete travel set.

Regards, Alan Bee

I don't have the book, but based on the website I'd say 75750 and 75751 for classic twill.
Hopsack isn't always featured so prominently, but in the past there have been a light navy and dark navy very much like the twills. Those might be 75712 and 75714, but the pics aren't great and they might be sharkskin.

 

[krakatoa]

Gentlemen,

Can someone who's had one tailored offer a view on Lesser 8/9oz tropical worsted suiting? I like the feel of the cloth but I am concerned about drape and more importantly durability. I have the unfortunate tendency to wear out trouser crotches when the fabric is not sufficiently sturdy.

Thank you in advance

Alan Bee

Gentlemen,

Can someone who's had one tailored offer a view on Lesser 8/9oz tropical worsted suiting? I like the feel of the cloth but I am concerned about drape and more importantly durability. I have the unfortunate tendency to wear out trouser crotches when the fabric is not sufficiently sturdy.

Thank you in advance

Alan Bee

As I understand the concept of drape, it's a result of a specific type of cut (commonly used by certain houses on SR). Although I did have a suit made up from Lesser tropical, I didn't ask for that type of cut, so I'm not able to tell you whether it would produce the desired result. As for durability, my suit is less than 2 years old so can't really say, but I haven't noticed any durability issues so far. In fact, when made up the suit seems just a little heavier than what I'd like, but may therefore be a little more durable. I hear what you're saying about the crotch wear, as this has affected two of my older (8 year old) suits made with 10/11oz. (nonsuper) Scabal cloth, so I may well see this problem with the tropicals by the time they reach that longevity (or earlier). I usually now ask for a cloth lining for the crotch and so far, it's worked.

 

[jcmeyer]

The Phoenix bunch screams summer weight but the texture says other wise.

Pretty sure @Murlsquirl has that exact Phoenix cloth (@Newcomer has another color) and despite the numbers it doesn't seem to really be summer weight. Maybe if it was sparsely lined.

 

[Alan Bee]

As I understand the concept of drape, it's a result of a specific type of cut (commonly used by certain houses on SR). Although I did have a suit made up from Lesser tropical, I didn't ask for that type of cut, so I'm not able to tell you whether it would produce the desired result. As for durability, my suit is less than 2 years old so can't really say, but I haven't noticed any durability issues so far. In fact, when made up the suit seems just a little heavier than what I'd like, but may therefore be a little more durable. I hear what you're saying about the crotch wear, as this has affected two of my older (8 year old) suits made with 10/11oz. (nonsuper) Scabal cloth, so I may well see this problem with the tropicals by the time they reach that longevity (or earlier). I usually now ask for a cloth lining for the crotch and so far, it's worked.

Thank you for your prompt response Krakatoa.

Would you be kind enough to address other properties of this cloth when fully made up such as holding a trouser crease and wrinkles. I am particularly sensitive to a clean back and my prior experience suggests that light weight cloth moves a lot thereby rendering a clean back a tailoring challenge. Based on counsel I've received here on this thread, I'm trying out a roomier (fuller) cut hence my question regarding drape.

Any other observed characteristics also welcome.

Thank you in advance

Alan Bee

 

[Patrick R]

Pretty sure @Murlsquirl has that exact Phoenix cloth (@Newcomer has another color) and despite the numbers it doesn't seem to really be summer weight. Maybe if it was sparsely lined.

My first Phoenix jacket was suggested by Chris when I was looking for a spring/summer jacket. His suggestion was that it would be light enough to work in the Chicago summer (outside of the hottest days), but that it would also be appropriate the rest of the year. I now have two jackets from that book and I wouldn't hesitate to get a third.