Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

Need advice on navy wool/wool blend for an overcoat. It should be dark navy and plain.

For now, my options are the next:

W.Bill Classic Coating Collection (80% wool, 20% alpaca) 520g:

Hardy Minnis 2003B 100% wool 580g.

Which of the above mentioned would you choose and why?

Any more suggestions?

Thanks in advance

 

[dfoverdx]

Need advice on navy wool/wool blend for an overcoat. It should be dark navy and plain.

For now, my options are the next:

W.Bill Classic Coating Collection (80% wool, 20% alpaca) 520g:

Hardy Minnis 2003B 100% wool 580g.

Which of the above mentioned would you choose and why?

Any more suggestions?

Thanks in advance

I don't remember this particular W. Bill coating but last time at my tailor's shop i had a look to the whole book and quite nice stuff, much better than Harrisons and H&S book that i knew already.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

I don't remember this particular W. Bill coating but last time at my tailor's shop i had a look to the whole book and quite nice stuff, much better than Harrisons and H&S book that i knew already.

Two books that I have had great overcoats from
- The Harrisons wool/camel blend - there's a great plain navy in there
- The Loro Piana wool/cashmere blend - Chittleborough & Morgan made me an extraordinary grey overcoat from this book, and I also saw a great navy in there. Expensive but worth it

R-O-T

 

[zr3rs]

Any more suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Fox Brothers Large Herringbone in Midnight. 24oz/690g. I have this in charcoal for a peacoat. Because of the extensive flannel finish, the herringbone is nearly invisible and it has a soft, but firm grip to it. Relatively heavy, probably high durability, only cashmere might be warmer (but less durable). I really love it.

 

[taxgenius]

My tailor had a no name entry level fabric book. He says it's from England. Are you able to figure out from which mill this is from? I know it doesn't provide much info-just hoping.

 

[lordsuperb]

Midnight Blue Smoking Jacket over Cream Cricket Flannel Trousers. Enjoy the clip ....

I'm not sure I like this one. The sleeves look a bit snug and the jacket makes your hips look wide.

I like the concept of various dinner jackets, but how often are you able to wear them?

Also, what's your sport coat game look like?

 

[venividivicibj]

Would have preferred the epic sax guy on repeat during the whole video.

 

[sugarbutch]

Also, what's your sport coat game look like?

This man has a laser-like focus.

 

[lordsuperb]

This man has a laser-like focus.

 

[WillingToLearn]

jacket looks nice, from this photo, I'd lengthen the sleeves for sure. Left arm slightly dropped shoulder, for sure needs more length in the sleeve on the dropped shoulder.

 

[Pliny]

Nailed the shoulders, chest & whole top end tho, imo

 

[brax]

I am skipping our so-called winter. Texturally speaking, Phoenix - which I anticipate is similar in texture to my Rust jacket - is really only useful in the winter season. The temperature here ranges from the high 80s to high 90s from March through November.

So you're looking for a Louisiana spring-summer-fall odd jacket? A heavy linen might do the trick. Chris loves the LL linen options. For what it's worth, I really like them also but only in solid. A share the bias against patterned linen for men.

 

[brax]

I am skipping our so-called winter. Texturally speaking, Phoenix - which I anticipate is similar in texture to my Rust jacket - is really only useful in the winter season. The temperature here ranges from the high 80s to high 90s from March through November.

And if you are looking for patterned jacketing, how about waiting for the new Loro Piana spring/summer swatches when they become available?

 

[brax]

(cross posted...)
style advice requested: I'm thinking about commissioning a navy blazer of the ivy-trad-gold-brass-button variety and was wondering if I should get it made up in a hopsack cloth or something like flannel or a doeskin fabric. Is one of these more 'appropriate' with the whole brass-button get up (for instance, are there any seasonal connotations with this type of blazer), or is it just 6 of one, half a dozen of the other, etc...

thanks!

I think that brass buttons look much better on heavier jacketing. I'd skip them on the fresco (mock-leno is an especially good option here) and use them on a heavier flannel. Use MOP on the fresco. If you want a heavier option than Minnis with a very similar structure, check out the 12-13oz Finmeresco Mock Leno. Great stuff.

 

[kolecho]

I think that brass buttons look much better on heavier jacketing. I'd skip them on the fresco (mock-leno is an especially good option here) and use them on a heavier flannel. Use MOP on the fresco. If you want a heavier option than Minnis with a very similar structure, check out the 12-13oz Finmeresco Mock Leno. Great stuff.

For mock leno, I actually prefer the ones in the Fresco 3 bunch. They feel more bouncy and crease resistant than the Finmeresco mock lenos but there are less colour options.