Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[circumspice]

I am kicking around the idea of a corduroy suit, looking for very fine wale. Any particular books I should look at?

 

[dieworkwear]

I am kicking around the idea of a corduroy suit, looking for very fine wale. Any particular books I should look at?

I have a mid-wale corduroy suit made from Hunt & Winterbotham's Eskdale bunch. I assume they have some pinwales on there. You can check with Huddersfield Fine Worsted, who sells the fabric.

Brisbane Moss also sells corduroy, although I don't know if they have needlecords in there. Be careful with the weight. If I remember correctly, they measure by linear meter, not square meter, so you'll have to convert (if you normally think of fabrics in square meter weights).

Both of those are pure cotton, which will feel slightly stiff. If you want something softer, you might want to look for a cotton/ cashmere blend. I believe @GusW has something like that from Zegna.

 

[C&A]

These videos are the only content being posted here, and are preventing this thread from stagnation.

thats not really a convincing argument tbh. moreover, this thread was doing quite well actually. on average no more or less stagnation lately than there has been over the last nine years. not every thread needs the amount of posts as e.g. waywn.

 

[Tony Montana]

Brisbane Moss also sells corduroy, although I don't know if they have needlecords in there. Be careful with the weight. If I remember correctly, they measure by linear meter, not square meter, so you'll have to convert (if you normally think of fabrics in square meter weights).

It's the other way round: They use g/m^2, so you could multiply by 1,46m, or whatever the width is, since g/lm seems more common in the industry (even though g/m^2 is more sensible, obviously).

 

[edmorel]

14milmil14 isn't cashmere, it's superduperfine wool. while i've never handled the 14mil product i have handled several of the 15mil products which are really great, so it would follow that the 14mil would be a very fine product as well (just not quite as fine a micron)

the nice thing about superfine wool compared to cashmere is that it seems you can use a true worsted prep with wool. i can only recall seeing napped or woolen-type products with cashmere, but that might just be my own shortcoming/unworldliness.

you were actually correct, the fabric is 14 micron wool (80%) and cashmere (20%), I was mistaken because I only saw the Cashmere on the selvedge.

 

[Gus]

I am kicking around the idea of a corduroy suit, looking for very fine wale. Any particular books I should look at?

I have had two cotton and cashmere blend corduroy suits. They were soft, comfortable and had a nice drape from day one. When it came time to get a new corduroy suit, the cashmere/cotton blend fabrics were close in price to pure cashmere (crazy!). And, the 100% cotton options felt stiff and hard as though backed with cardboard. Jim Ockert at Khaki's of Carmel found an option in a Zegna book. It was a cotton with 3% Elastine. I never thought I would consider a synthetic but the Elastine gives a soft feel to the fabric without the stiffness of 100% cotton. I found that I actually prefer the little bit of stretch that the Elastine offers. I've worn the suit for coast-to-coast flights and never even think about taking off the jacket because it is so comfortable.

The Zegna options aren't the old-school 50's-60's colors or wide wale corduroy. They are a bit more modern with a slight dusty look and a narrow wale. The overall effect is a bit muted which I think is nice. I chose green but they also had a charcoal, a burgundy and navy as I recall.

I've owned a lot of corduroy jackets and suits since I was in college. My favorite colors have been the mossy greens and chestnut/browns. Those colors don't pretend to be a formal suit and mix perfectly with jeans and heavy derbys or boots which is how I've worn them 90% of the time. The pic, below, is of a custom Ring Jacket suit. The shirt, tie and pocket square are all from NMWA.

 

[venividivicibj]

Does the elastine prevent wrinkles/have any other effects or is it purely for stretch?

 

[Gus]

Does the elastine prevent wrinkles/have any other effects or is it purely for stretch?

It offers both stretch and softness. Now that you mention it I guess it is a bit less prone to wrinkles but I've never had much of a wrinkle problem with any corduroy.

 

[edmorel]

Does the elastine prevent wrinkles/have any other effects or is it purely for stretch?

A little wrinkle resistance, a little more resistance to liquids penetrating the fabric but the stretch is the selling point. I love cotton/elastene for pants, but people here elastene and assume it's a cost cutting measure or a cheap fabric. Incotex and a lot of the Italian brands make their cotton pants in this blend.

 

[circumspice]

I have had a Boglioli grey corduroy sportcoat for a couple fall seasons now - the wale is similar to @GusW's Ring suit, if not even more subdued. Are the Zegna books available for perusal online? Their website appears to be brochure-ware.

 

[dieworkwear]

I have had two cotton and cashmere blend corduroy suits. They were soft, comfortable and had a nice drape from day one. When it came time to get a new corduroy suit, the cashmere/cotton blend fabrics were close in price to pure cashmere (crazy!). And, the 100% cotton options felt stiff and hard as though backed with cardboard. Jim Ockert at Khaki's of Carmel found an option in a Zegna book. It was a cotton with 3% Elastine. I never thought I would consider a synthetic but the Elastine gives a soft feel to the fabric without the stiffness of 100% cotton. I found that I actually prefer the little bit of stretch that the Elastine offers. I've worn the suit for coast-to-coast flights and never even think about taking off the jacket because it is so comfortable.

The Zegna options aren't the old-school 50's-60's colors or wide wale corduroy. They are a bit more modern with a slight dusty look and a narrow wale. The overall effect is a bit muted which I think is nice. I chose green but they also had a charcoal, a burgundy and navy as I recall.

I've owned a lot of corduroy jackets and suits since I was in college. My favorite colors have been the mossy greens and chestnut/browns. Those colors don't pretend to be a formal suit and mix perfectly with jeans and heavy derbys or boots which is how I've worn them 90% of the time. The pic, below, is of a custom Ring Jacket suit. The shirt, tie and pocket square are all from NMWA.

I like my cord suit, but if I were to do it again, I think I'd give one of these cotton-cashmere or cotton-elastane blends a try. It's true that the H&W Eskdale and Brisbane Moss cords are a bit stiff. Stiffer than the corduroy stuff I've bought off the rack from Ralph Lauren.

I originally decided to not get the cot-cash blend cause I thought it might be more delicate than pure cotton, but in hindsight, I think that was misguided. Plus, with enough clothing and proper rotation, reasonably well made stuff lasts forever anyway.

 

[abkain]

Can anyone comment on where to order/find Solaro cotton cloth? The cotton Solaro seems to be more muted or "cooler" (as DWW would say) than the "warmer" (to my eye) Solaro wool - is that correct?

Also, any opinions on the sand (510247) or beige (510223) Fresco for a Spring/Summer suit as a more subdued alternative than the Solaro?

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55

 

[abkain]

Also, any recommendations for a year-round (I live in LA) mid to light grey suiting cloth for a suit that would work for business (not super conservative business dress environment) and non (weddings, social events)? I have heard good things about VBC's Revenge fabric (it looks nice to me) but would appreciate other recommendations. Thanks in advance.

 

[mactire]

What's wrong with lowering the crotch?

False advertising?

 

[Concordia]

Can anyone comment on where to order/find Solaro cotton cloth? The cotton Solaro seems to be more muted or "cooler" (as DWW would say) than the "warmer" (to my eye) Solaro wool - is that correct?

Also, any opinions on the sand (510247) or beige (510223) Fresco for a Spring/Summer suit as a more subdued alternative than the Solaro?

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/55

Worth a look. Also the wheat and dark beige.
Dugdale's New Fine Classics (on their website) has a nice batch of taupe/beige suitings, 10oz.