Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

^This is excellent advice, despite the W. Bill book those are from being fantastic!

W.Bill Phoenix is probably my favourite jacketing book. Not too delicate (cashmeres or cashmere blends) nor too rustic (tweeds or faux tweeds). And the colours are all staples apart from a couple more rakish.

 

[wigglr]

The Drapers and Caccioppoli cloths posted by wigglr are jacketings (afaik made by VBC, hopsack, very open weave, see-through). Definitely not to be made into trousers.

Correct! It is a wonderful, textured solid navy blazer. @TweedyProf id highly recommend the Caccioppoli

 

[TweedyProf]

Correct! It is a wonderful, textured solid navy blazer. @TweedyProf id highly recommend the Caccioppoli

On the open weave, see-throughness: would you recommend lining the jacket then?

 

[wigglr]

On the open weave, see-throughness: would you recommend lining the jacket then?

Mine is half lined, and I have no problem whatsoever. I can take a picture tonight when I'm home

 

[fllick]

Cacciopolli (I have the lighter of the two)
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Drapers
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W. Bill

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IS the cacciopoli 2731 a very dark navy? Thanks!

 

[wigglr]

IS the cacciopoli 2731 a very dark navy? Thanks!

You mean drapers? Yeah it's definitely darker.

 

[S K M]

Ok, my navy blazer might be ruined (freak rain storm where the rain, due to the strong winds, struck horizontally).

Suggestions on cloth for basic navy blazer for spring/summer, breathable, with a bit of texture but not over the top? A slightly chunky hopsack is my first inclination. Recommendations, links and pictures welcome.

I would definitely recommend the 75719 from Harrison's Oyster book:
http://merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_148&product_id=3104

Nice texture and weight which makes it suitable for half-lined if one should wish to do so.

Cheers,
S K M

 

[Tony Montana]

I would definitely recommend the 75719 from Harrison's Oyster book:
http://merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_148&product_id=3104

Nice texture and weight which makes it suitable for half-lined if one should wish to do so.

Cheers,
S K M

Have you had it made up? If so, do you have a picture you would be willing to share?

Almost looks like birdseye in the Merino Bros' photo. It would be too heavy for summer (for my taste), but if it's a nice, chunky hopsack, it might be a good option for the colder months.

 

[WillingToLearn]

my Caccioppoli (VBC) hopsack SC is 1/4 lined, meaning in my mind just the shoulders and upper back and sleeves have the silk(?) lining. The front is self lined. This will prompt someone to tell me i am wrong and that is called 1/2 lined, or french facing on the front or buggy lined. i can't keep it straight.

Bottom line, i have zero issues with "see through" with this jacket. My light weight minnis and other high twist blends are far more see through and none of it bothers me. The only comments i get are on the minnis/high twist and it is someone noting with jealousy on a really hot day how awesome it is that is is so airy.

i went with Navy MOP buttons on my hopsack SC btw, and i really like that choice.

 

[supern0va]

Does anyone know which mill makes the caccioppoli wool solaro? Super 150 wool, 265g.

 

[lordsuperb]

London Lounge City Gunclub!

 

[gdl203]

Antonio working on your jacket!

More of Antonio and Antonio (Dionisio was in Milan the day we shot this)

Spoiler

 

[firenze_rob]

London Lounge City Gunclub!
View attachment 784446

Steed made mine. Will post pics later. Would be interesting to see different executions of the same cloth.

 

[lordsuperb]

Antonio working on your jacket!

More of Antonio and Antonio (Dionisio was in Milan the day we shot this)

Spoiler

Awesome video. You guys seriously need a store front.

Steed made mine. Will post pics later. Would be interesting to see different executions of the same cloth.

That'll be interesting to see. What configuration did you go with for your jacket?

 

[UrbanComposition]

I love seeing variations of a common variable. Tailors are talented folk. The more pictures the better.