Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Michael Ay329]

Griffyndor, it pains me to pay 120 pounds (with VAT), per meter to Lovat for their cloths, but Holland and Sherry tends to be double to triple that price. Please post a link to the H&S stuff that you feel is worth checking out.

I have not seen anything this distinct from Fox (although they have a treasure trove of cloths on their Merchant Fox page available for immediate purchase).

Do you have a link to comparable Porter and Harding's Glorious Twele?

Chobochobo, I thought about using my other Athenian tailor, who does softer shoulders, but decided to use this tailor, who prefers more structured shoulders, due to the substantial weight of the cloth.

Do you feel the type of shoulder used here, based on my body type, is better used on a businees suit than a sport coat?

Upon receipt of some other odd jackets soon from the "Softer Athenian",, I'll post pics

 

[lordsuperb]



Do you feel the type of shoulder used here, based on my body type, is better used on a businees suit than a sport coat?

Upon receipt of some other odd jackets soon from the "Softer Athenian",, I'll post pics

The jacket looks fine structured. The shoulder on the right needs to be a bit more squared and the armholes need to be cleaned up. Also the lapels look to be about 4.75" to 5" in a 3 button configuration that has only one button. I would slim down the lapels to 4.25 or 4.5 if you insist on big lapels and do a true 3 button or 3r2.5 coat. And open up the quarters.


More importantly lets talk about shirts and ties!

 

[marcodalondra]



I'm as well fed as you

It looks better just as an odd jacket, but if I'm being honest, the cut doesn't do you any favours. If this were RTW, fair enough but if this is bespoke, I'd want a better fit, particularly on the shoulders.

Shoulder, chest and upper arms could have been cut/shaped better to accommodate a larger Phisique.

 

[culverwood]



Crispaire is more like normal tropical than are the Frescoes. Also a tad warmer, both from weight and tightness of weave.

Finmerescos have always been more flexible than the Fresco equivalents. Maybe too much so, in the 12 ounce suiting. Haven't tried the new "Mock Leno" for jackets, although those look promising. The lightest weight stuff (3-ply, 9oz) was quite useful-- don't know if they've changed its specs with the new book. There used to be only two sub-species.

I have just ordered a jacket in the Finmeresco Mock Leno and will be able to report in a few months time. It is an open weave and so required a similar coloured lining which somewhat negates its tropical/summer purpose. I was looking for a travel blazer so I hope it will turn out as intended.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gents,

I do appreciate a piece of advice: I am considering - for the following FW - a navy cashmere SC ( blazer) in a hopsacky cloth that my supplier has just found; should I proceed, it will definitely have 2 patch pockets, but here is the question: would you do it SB or would you go for a DB? It will be combined by flannel trousers and suede shoes.

Waiting for your input!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[dieworkwear]



I do appreciate a piece of advice: I am considering - for the following FW - a navy cashmere SC ( blazer) in a hopsacky cloth that my supplier has just found; should I proceed, it will definitely have 2 patch pockets, but here is the question: would you do it SB or would you go for a DB? It will be combined by flannel trousers and suede shoes.

Cashmere hopsack will fuzz easily. If you're going to wear it often, or if you care about how it holds up, I'd get a harder wearing fiber. Also, patch pockets will droop over time since cashmere loses shape easily. Getting hidden pockets inside those patches help, or just not using the pockets very often.

I have one in a cashmere-wool blend. It's OK, but doesn't get that much wear tbh. Tweed is often more appealing.

 

[sprout2]

Is hopsack a yankee thing: ? It's all you guys ever talk about. I remember seeing an interview with Mariano Rubinacci on YouTube where he says "eh yes we have the internazionale clientele, is many American, Russian, we go in New York, Londra, you see our name London House we come from here, nowdays many Americans always asking us 'opsack 'opsack, do you have 'opsack, and we say what is 'opsack?, so we look, and we search, and we find this one, is a very old tessuto yes and now many Mericano they love il 'opsack, so we make our own Rubinacci 'Opsack is beri beri populare."

What is the iGent fabric of 2017? My bet is on mohair. Now that the internet gentleman is coming of age, he finally is grokking its purpose. Does Suit Supply offer mohair yet?

 

[Griffindork]



What is the iGent fabric of 2017? My bet is on mohair. Now that the internet gentleman is coming of age, he finally is grokking its purpose. Does Suit Supply offer mohair yet?

Dupioni silk. Definitely make an order from the new H&S or Scabal books as soon as you can if you don't want to feel left out.

 

[TweedyProf]

Thoughts on gilt edge? Was going for the Dugdale in the middle for a pair of odd trousers but it's out of stock and will not be restocked. Steed suggested the top, close enough in terms of brightness to the Dugdale (Gilt Edge slightly darker) and similar hand and slight visual interest.


Edit: stop the presses, winner is "Moonlight" and Finmeresco sw2730

 

[Bespoke DJP]



Cashmere hopsack will fuzz easily. If you're going to wear it often, or if you care about how it holds up, I'd get a harder wearing fiber. Also, patch pockets will droop over time since cashmere loses shape easily. Getting hidden pockets inside those patches help, or just not using the pockets very often.

I have one in a cashmere-wool blend. It's OK, but doesn't get that much wear tbh. Tweed is often more appealing.

Dear @dieworkwear

Thank you very much for your input, I do appreciate it a lot!

The fabric is not hopsack per se, but a nice, smooth navy cashmere with a textural interest, something like a small knit. You are absolutely right, patch pockets are fragile and I always pay attention to them! The point made is that having made redundant throughout the years a lot of navy SB SCs, I am now in the verge of considering a DB one with wide lapels, a la SuitSupply, only Bespoke with a far superior fabric.

Tweed, being a good idea, perhaps with a donegal element will be a next project.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]



Is hopsack a yankee thing: ? It's all you guys ever talk about. I remember seeing an interview with Mariano Rubinacci on YouTube where he says "eh yes we have the internazionale clientele, is many American, Russian, we go in New York, Londra, you see our name London House we come from here, nowdays many Americans always asking us 'opsack 'opsack, do you have 'opsack, and we say what is 'opsack?, so we look, and we search, and we find this one, is a very old tessuto yes and now many Mericano they love il 'opsack, so we make our own Rubinacci 'Opsack is beri beri populare."

What is the iGent fabric of 2017? My bet is on mohair. Now that the internet gentleman is coming of age, he finally is grokking its purpose. Does Suit Supply offer mohair yet?

Dear @sprout2

Whilst I read with interest your post, if mine was your inspiration - for the first part of your post at least - I can only state that I am not American, to the contrary I live within a geographic - not to mention historic - proximity to Mr Rubinacci.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[dieworkwear]



Thoughts on gilt edge? Was going for the Dugdale in the middle for a pair of odd trousers but it's out of stock and will not be restocked. Steed suggested the top,

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

close enough in terms of brightness to the Dugdale (Gilt Edge slightly darker) and similar hand and slight visual interest.

Seems fine, although a bit lightweight. I think trousers hang better when they're heavier, and they don't add much heat. If you want odd trousers with a bit of textural interest, try whipcord or sharkskin.

 

[TweedyProf]

Seems fine, although a bit lightweight. I think trousers hang better when they're heavier, and they don't add much heat.

If you want odd trousers with a bit of textural interest, try whipcord or sharkskin.

Just talked to Matthew. We've settled on Finmeresco sw2730 9-11oz, so a little heavier which I agree will drape a bit better.

 

[Concordia]



Seems fine, although a bit lightweight. I think trousers hang better when they're heavier, and they don't add much heat.

If you want odd trousers with a bit of textural interest, try whipcord or sharkskin.

Whose whipcords are those?

 

[dieworkwear]



Whose whipcords are those?

H&S Dakota Plains.

Lighter: H&S 953000
Darker: H&S 953301

Adjacent cavalry twills from Huddersfield.