Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[poorsod]



That's amazing. I'm curious whether others here tried Barbera fabrics and how they compare to English fabrics such as Harrisons, Scabal and H&S.

I have a summer jacket from the old Carlo Barbera for H Lesser (CBHL). It is S120 but feels lux like cashmere. I am surprised how well it resists creases give how soft it feels. I also have a 3 piece suit from a vintage length of Barbera for Lesser around 9/10 oz. Also has a nice silky luxurious feel to the cloth but the pants seem to crease a bit. It is possible that CBHL is more optimal for jackets than for pants.

I suspect Barbera would make cloths to different specs depending on the client. At least compared with Lesser 8/9, the CBHL is less hard wearing and more lux. I don't have any jackets or coats made from cloth Barbera made under their own label.

 

[dfoverdx]

whats the weight and fabric composition?

About 600gr pure wool. A classic heavy weight tweed, can be made as a suiting or jacketing so cloth is rather dense compared to shetland or harris tweed etc.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

swoon!

Barbera cloths. I just don't get how they do it so much better than others [not that I've tried every cloth out there]. Feel like cotton, hang like steel, wrinkle like hardboard.

Yes, I have visited the factory in Biella and seen how they weave it live. For me are the best.

Just took this pic to make an idea about how a tie would be out of my last bougths, improving my photo skills with a 11 year old cheap camera.

Wool that looks linen

 

[justinkapur]



About 600gr pure wool. A classic heavy weight tweed, can be made as a suiting or jacketing so cloth is rather dense compared to shetland or harris tweed etc.

colors are great but I definitely want something that is much lighter.

 

[yywwyy]

If there's anybody interested in below cloth, windsor tweed, it's in subscription list of London Lounge. It's getting more interest but yet it's still short of 20m. Would be happy to get a coat length of it so if anybody else interested let me know in order to push this to 60m...

The background is a mix of browns, windows are red lavender and blue (looks green in pic but it's a blue)

That's a beautiful fabric. Excited to see how it looks made up!

 

[ArchieGoodwin]

Hi people, I'm going to Edinburgh for a weekend in December and I was wondering if you could suggest me where to buy some cloth - I am thinking of a tweed semi-casual three-piece suit and a lightweight sport coat.

Also, I am going to Naples in January for a couple of months. Do you know what is the best taylor for these two pieces?I am not sure if Neapolitan tailors are good with waistcoats. I am thinking of going to Sartoria Pirozzi, I've seen some of their jackets and I like their fit, but I am not sure if they allow BYO cloth.. any suggestions?

 

[SimonC]



Hi people, I'm going to Edinburgh for a weekend in December and I was wondering if you could suggest me where to buy some cloth - I am thinking of a tweed semi-casual three-piece suit and a lightweight sport coat.

I've not lived there for a few years, but there was never anywhere particularly good. Amusingly Harrisons of Edinburgh are now based at the opposite end of the country after the acquisition by LBD, and I don't rate your chances of getting quality cloth in the shops such as Remnant King.

So your best bet is probably somewhere like Walker Slater, but buying cloth from one tailor to take to another seems like a risky and expensive approach.

 

[dfoverdx]

Hi people, I'm going to Edinburgh for a weekend in December and I was wondering if you could suggest me where to buy some cloth - I am thinking of a tweed semi-casual three-piece suit and a lightweight sport coat.

Also, I am going to Naples in January for a couple of months. Do you know what is the best taylor for these two pieces?I am not sure if Neapolitan tailors are good with waistcoats. I am thinking of going to Sartoria Pirozzi, I've seen some of their jackets and I like their fit, but I am not sure if they allow BYO cloth.. any suggestions?

If it's Nunzio Pirozzi i do confirm that you can bring your own cloth. I also recommend him, he's a very good tailor. One of the best in Naples.

 

[ArchieGoodwin]

@SimonC : thanks for the reply. How do you rate Walker Slater RTW line? I'm surprised that there aren't good shops there.. I was hoping to gorge myself on tweeds...

@dfoverdx : Are we talking about Domenico's father? A friend commissioned a couple of jackets and a suit, it seems like a really good tailor..

 

[Michael Ay329]

Volpe supposedly uses an experienced vest maker.

One of our own members posted this thread...Caveat Emptor .;.....http://www.styleforum.net/t/247048/sartoria-gianni-volpe-naples

 

[marcodalondra]



Volpe supposedly uses an experienced vest maker.

One of our own members posted this thread...Caveat Emptor .;.....http://www.styleforum.net/t/247048/sartoria-gianni-volpe-naples

Thanks for the repost, yes Volpe and some other uses one of the top waistcoat makers in Naples, again from the Schiraldi school.

Member @WeakMonday had a three pieces suit (DB vest) made by Volpe and I believe member @yasu10s is having one made

I will post the reference to the WeakMonday posts which I have saved in the thread you linked

 

[Michael Ay329]



Thanks for the repost, yes Volpe and some other uses one of the top waistcoat makers in Naples, again from the Schiraldi school.

Member @WeakMonday had a three pieces suit (DB vest) made by Volpe and I believe member @yasu10s is having one made

I will post the reference to the WeakMonday posts which I have saved in the thread you linked

What is the name of this Neopolitan vest maker?

Does he do solo work?, or does he only do subcontract work through other tailors?

 

[dieworkwear]



What is the name of this Neopolitan vest maker?

Does he do solo work?, or does he only do subcontract work through other tailors?

He works on Mt. Vestuvius

 

[kolecho]



He works on Mt. Vestuvius

He must be a hot tailor.

 

[dieworkwear]



He must be a hot tailor.

His stuff is pretty fire.