Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Sure thing, will you post in the MTO section? I can drum up some interest in our thread too. Are there any more pictures available?

To be totally honestly, I don't know what/where the MTO section is, but I will happily get something up and (hopefully) rolling once I do.

@S K M definitely not, at least as far as I'm concerned. While fairly redundant, I'd be open to trying to get both ventures off the ground. All things considered, I think I prefer Slewfoots version, but am in no way opposed to DWW's.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Does it have to be the Slewfoot version rather than DWW's?

Just to clarify, my pictures and 6s are the DWW.

 

[ThunderMarch]



I don't know what/where the MTO section is, but I will happily get something up and (hopefully) rolling once I do.

The MTO section can be found here :
http://www.styleforum.net/f/20926/p...r-trunk-shows-and-other-collaborative-efforts

 

[DavidLane]

One more of the DWW...




DL-

 

[sacafotos]



@ericgereghty @dieworkwear

We're a couple of guys at Skoaktiebolaget interested in the Slewfoot Tobacco Fresco.

Is this the less red version of the two (Slewfoot vs DWW run) ?

It's gorgeous.

 

[dfoverdx]

I am looking to make a solaro suit for next summer. Do you have any idea where can i get a summer solaro suiting ? Smiths Woollens ?
I found this but not sure which cloth is it...Anybody knows ?
http://blazerandtie.tumblr.com/post/106711166322/vannikorea-solaro-suit-summer

 

[P-K-L]



I am looking to make a solaro suit for next summer. Do you have any idea where can i get a summer solaro suiting ? Smiths Woollens ?
I found this but not sure which cloth is it...Anybody knows ?
http://blazerandtie.tumblr.com/post/106711166322/vannikorea-solaro-suit-summer

This one is smiths- weighs around 370g i think
Caccioppoli has a lighter version available

 

[Pliny]

Quote:

Is this the less red version of the two (Slewfoot vs DWW run) ?

It's gorgeous.

The Slewfoot is more 'saturated' than it is ruddy. The intensity makes it tricky to wear the trousers as odd pants. The jacket not so much.

 

[Pliny]

Here's a poser and I'd be grateful for comments...

If you were to commission an unstructured jacket - no padding at shoulders, no canvas - which wool would drape and hold its structure best? I'm tempted by a 'cardi-jacket' for extra casual-osity, but don't want a limp rag.

I'm thinking a stiff or perhaps hairy tweed, like Harris. Structurelss wears cooler, so I can go for weights ( > 12 oz) I normally wouldn't consider.

 

[Isolation]

Not sure if you mean unlined as well but without lining it could be uncomfortable and scratchy to wear. I own like 30%~ unlined jackets, and I have to say that the difference is not as much as I thought it would be, but definitely feel that a more lined jacket is more practical/easier to put on, better movement, and I can believe that it'd be more durable as is said.

I feel that structure does some of those things too (wearability etc)

 

[Pliny]

@Isolation Yes, lined, but no structure.

A Shetland, perhaps.

 

[kolecho]



Here's a poser and I'd be grateful for comments...  

If you were to commission an unstructured jacket  -  no padding at shoulders, no canvas  -  which wool would drape and hold its structure best?  I'm tempted by a 'cardi-jacket' for extra casual-osity, but don't want a limp rag.

I'm thinking a stiff or perhaps hairy tweed, like Harris.  Structurelss wears cooler, so I can go for weights ( > 12 oz)  I normally wouldn't consider.

It sounds like a shirt jacket type of garment, though the cut might be somewhat different. Wool will catch on your shirt if left unlined completely and will feel scratchy. You're better off with linen to cotton because no matter what wool you choose, it will never look the same as a jacket with canvas under it. You might as well embrace some crumpled charisma.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Here's a poser and I'd be grateful for comments...

If you were to commission an unstructured jacket - no padding at shoulders, no canvas - which wool would drape and hold its structure best? I'm tempted by a 'cardi-jacket' for extra casual-osity, but don't want a limp rag.

I'm thinking a stiff or perhaps hairy tweed, like Harris. Structurelss wears cooler, so I can go for weights ( > 12 oz) I normally wouldn't consider.

I own a tailored uncanvassed and unlined jacket made of Harris Tweed. It holds its shape quite well. It feels relatively scratchy, partially because I always wear it with knitwear. The lack of canvas has never been an issue.

Nonetheless, nowadays I would opt for a more pleasant cloth against the skin (hence the idea of having it unlined). Teba jackets (a spanish creature) has been always done in cashmere and it doesn't have neither canvas nor lining. Never owned one, but the ones I've seen on people looked in good shape regardless its (lack) of structure.

 

[dieworkwear]

Agree that you're just going to end up with a shirt jacket. I don't know if a Harris or linen is going to make that big of a difference in terms of shape, so long as the material isn't super loosely woven. FWIW, I have a few shirt jackets and find that a bit of fusible and shoulder padding can go a long way.

P. Johnson does some of those "zero structure" designs. I think it works on some people (like Patrick himself), but it's not the most flattering thing on other guys. You have to have the right physique and character for it.

If you do it, ask your tailor if he's going to cut a side body. Years ago, I thought about commissioning a shirt jacket with a separate side body because it seemed like you could get a bit more shape out of the waist. That'll mean that you'll have to go to a "traditional" tailor and not just a shirtmaker, which will drive up the cost. And you'll be paying for a whole lot of stuff that you're not getting, like that canvassing and structure inside. Might be worth trying on RTW brands that are similar (e.g. Barena) to see if you even like that zero structure look (I think Barena has no structure, but if not, it's pretty close).

Anyway, I would probably go with a spring/ summer fabric. Maybe linen or something.

Teba jackets (a spanish creature) has been always done in cashmere and it doesn't have neither canvas nor lining. Never owned one, but the ones I've seen on people looked in good shape regardless its (lack) of structure.

I don't know about Bel y Cia's, but Justo Gimeno's Tebas have a bit of fusible in the chest and some shoulder padding. IMO, that's what makes them look a lot better than totally unstructured shirt jackets.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I was told at Bel that theirs were completely unstructured, but now I have my doubts...are Matuozzo shirt-jackets completley uncanvassed/unfussed?