Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[dieworkwear]



I found a lot of the brown and green swatches in the book too "confetti-ish" when I looked at it this summer at Steed (e.g. the swatch below the brown which I thought was fairly staid in the speckling).

I have a jacket from that book, which I think is fairly conservative in its speckling (#34579).

 

[edmorel]

You can get a donegal like effect without the speckling if you go the birdseye route from one of the jacketing books where they are done in wool or wool/cashmere blends. The other benefit is that most donegal tends to be firm with a dry finish and a wool/cashmere blend will be softer, assuming you want soft. If you prefer tweeds, then a dionegal is the way to go and there are solids, typically grey, brown or blue. I am sure the Porter and Harding books has some as does SherryTweed.


I just picked up a nice amount of H&S 14 1/2oz and 20oz cream moleskin, typically khaki is the lightest color you see these in. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM, price is a few dollars cheaper per yard than the HFW moleskins (an about half the normal price of H&S).

507 and 600

 

[Andy57]

Why would you want a Donegal without the speckling? Isn't that sort of the point?

 

[tchoy]



Tchoy, that's a nice looking jacket but I think you would benefit from some shoulder roping, your shoulders seem very slopped and it looks like your recent jackets all have natural shoulders, which accentuates how slopped your shoulders are. It is not a particularly good look for you, in my opinion.

I appreciate the feed back even my better half tells me my more structure jackets looks better on me. I have jackets made by different tailors some are more structure than the one shown somehow I always gravitate towards the softer style jackets it's much more comfortable. It really comes down to personal preference. I may do a version with slight padding and roping in the future.

 

[Michael Ay329]



I have a jacket from that book, which I think is fairly conservative in its speckling (#34579).

Could you post a picture of the finished jacket...I'm interested in making it too?

 

[dieworkwear]



Could you post a picture of the finished jacket...I'm interested in making it too?

Unfortunately at my tailor's right now for a small adjustment. I think I might get it back next month though. Can PM you photos when it comes.

 

[Griffindork]

W Bill donegal:

 

[DavidLane]

I will be picking up the green W.Bill below at the beginning of October.


DL

 

[Fanthom]

This is a little bit naughty, but can anyone identify any of these fabrics from Drake's new collection? I realize they might be woven especially for Drake's (or Belvest), of course. The first one is 100% wool, the second 60% wool 35% mohair 5% cashmere.

 

[heldentenor]

Have you checked out Abraham Moon's books? I would bet pretty good money on that first tweed being Moon. If anyone has a lead on a gunclub fabric like the second one above (dark, rich undertone, highlights across the spectrum from blue-orange), point me that way.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Yorkshire Fabrics has the top one. It's great. Seems to be Shetland. Harris Tweed has one similar to the second.

 

[seferphier]

Deleted

 

[seferphier]



I couldn't disagree more. There are definitely times where down and Sorel are part of my wardrobe (I am in Upstate NY), however I truly enjoy having the right tweed, linen, cashmere ect. for the situation. I would much rather have 3 different weight tweeds than one of these stupid things: DL-

That is incredibly useful. I'm thinking of making an overcoat for this winter. I need a Donegal fabric with drape but light enough that I can wear at 15c. I originally settled on molloy but it sounds like I should consider another fabric with a light weave. Can someone recommend me a fabric? Preferably not a harrison fabric Like w bill since the Hong Kong agent has a huge mark up on fabrics.

 

[Concordia]

How urban/evening/dressy do you want it to be? 15c is almost 60F-- I'd almost never wear an overcoat of any sort at that temperature unless it were punishingly damp. YMMV, of course, depending on your internal heat regulator.

One option, if you want a good city topcoat, is a suiting fabric. 13oz or 16oz. You could get a charcoal herringbone, or the same in navy. MAYBE a hopsack. Sometimes Italians do that when they want to look sharp but not overheat. You do have to be careful, as it should look like a coat and not a suit. I was going to suggest Harrison's Oyster, but there may be something similar in the VBC catalogue, or one of the very English books from Holland & Sherry or even Scabal.

If you want very crisp, and are willing to have it not last forever b/c of shine, a cavalry twill from one of the trousering books will be a pleasant step up from trenchcoat cotton and still be graceful enough to roll up easily while traveling on planes, etc.

If you want a little more casual, Donegal tweeds do breathe well. There are players other than W. Bill, but I don't know who they are at the moment. Be careful with Scabal, Dormeuil, and some others-- in addition to the real stuff, they sell "tweeds" that look to be aimed at the disposable ladies' fashion market.

 

[Manton]

Covert is about as light as I would go for a topcoat.