Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[othertravel]



Too vague. What mill/merchant? What type of fabric? Etc.

Preferably a well known English or Italian mill. Open to all types of fabrics.

There's a seller on eBay for example that sells suiting from dormeiul, Harrison's and even Kiton. I'm assuming he gets last bolts. But I've never dealt with him before.

And @edmorel sells some stuff too.

So any help would be appreciated!

 

[Slickman]



The problem that I have (of the tailors available in Toronto) is that most of them will charge twice the price for a suit made from 2x more expensive fabric that they source. That is ripp of, and they do it because they can. That is why I always go for basic or close to basic offering (assuming this is still decent).

If I want something a bit special, I am better of sourcing myself.

So, what is the good source?

Most tailors i've dealt with do not markup fabric they source by that much. The slight markup if any is usually offset by the lower price the tailor pays for cloth (compared to the higher price charged to ordinary non-trade consumers) and protects you from having to deal with a cloth merchant who has an incentive to deal more fairly with a frequent repeat customer such as your tailor. That being said I'd lookup harrisons and minnis agents in Canada and inquire with them to see what they offer although I can't recommend enough that you just order it through your tailor


Also, stay away from ebay unless you're dealing with a reputable seller, there are a lot of fake goods out there

 

[ericgereghty]

Wait, if you're checking someone on eBay selling Harrison's suiting...why not check out Harrison's?

 

[venividivicibj]

Eds killing me with all the great fabric he's selling.

 

[othertravel]

So I should stay away from here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/yorkshirefabric/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

?

 

[lordsuperb]



So I should stay away from here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/yorkshirefabric/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

?

Unless it's something special that will be sold out in the near future I would just use your tailor.

 

[poorsod]

I've bought from eBay once and I'm not in a hurry to do it again. Photos often don't represent what a fabric looks like IRL.

 

[venividivicibj]

although they do have a nice purple jacketing in there for lordsuperb.

 

[Pliny]

So I should stay away from here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/yorkshirefabric/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

?

Just be discerning. I've picked up -
a. Vintage cloths by reliable manufacturers
b. 'Last of' cloths

at good prices from Yorkshire and a few others that sell on Ebay. For example, I picked up a 10.5 oz fawn colored Barbera for Lesser suiting.. so dry it's like a fine fine suede. Probably impossible to get from a tailor. What I don't do is buy cloth on the basis of online thumbnail and description alone. That's asking for trouble.

 

[Andy57]

What I don't do is buy cloth on the basis of online thumbnail and description alone. That's asking for trouble.

So what do you do?

 

[Pliny]

Just be discerning. I've picked up -
a. Vintage cloths by reliable manufacturers
b. 'Last of' cloths

at good prices from Yorkshire and a few others that sell on Ebay. For example, I picked up a 10.5 oz fawn colored Barbera for Lesser suiting.. so dry it's like a fine fine suede. Probably impossible to get from a tailor. What I don't do is buy cloth on the basis of online thumbnail and description alone. That's asking for trouble.

 

[S K M]



I've used the Harrison's cotton for chino is excellent stuff Brisbane Moss also makes some really cottons and the price is very reasonable.

I've just discovered a bunch by Solbriati linen and cotton and having a few pairs of trousers make at the moment and it's one of the nicest I've seen.

Thanks a lot tchoy! What weight did you go with for the Harrison's cotton?

 

[Andy57]

Just be discerning. I've picked up -
a. Vintage cloths by reliable manufacturers
b. 'Last of' cloths

at good prices from Yorkshire and a few others that sell on Ebay. For example, I picked up a 10.5 oz fawn colored Barbera for Lesser suiting.. so dry it's like a fine fine suede. Probably impossible to get from a tailor. What I don't do is buy cloth on the basis of online thumbnail and description alone. That's asking for trouble.

If you don't buy on the basis on online thumbnail and description alone, what do you do? I get that you buy Vintage cloths by reliable manufacturers and 'Last of' cloths, but how do you make the decision if not on the basis on online thumbnails and description? I'm genuinely interested, as I've also had the experience of being disappointed when receiving a cloth purchased on eBay.

 

[dieworkwear]

I've never bought cloth on eBay, but a friend has and supposedly had a good experience.

I don't do it because I've been disappointed by so many swatches online. You see something you think is nice, get a swatch, and it turns out the color isn't right (so many sellers don't bother to color correct images); the pattern isn't the scale you assumed; or the hand isn't what you expected.

I find it helps to buy from people who can give you more information. Ed here is good -- you can ask him if he thinks the fabric he's selling might be good for a sport coat, for example. I also find his colors are accurate in the photos. Same with Alden at LL, where you can ask him if the fabric is spongey, densely woven, etc. I've never been disappointed by the things I've bought from them, and they've all been bought online (i.e. using just word and photos).

A random seller on eBay might not give you that kind of reliable info. Or they might not have the same perspective as a clothing enthusiast.

 

[Pliny]

on the basis of what I already know about the reputation of the manufacturer or distributor, largely from what I've read hereabouts. If it's a good line from an Italian or British top tier like CB or HL or J of E, Harrisons, Lovat Mill or Fox I wouldn't hesitate if it's in a weave, pattern and weight that I'm after - provided it's vintage or 'last of' and reasonably priced. Having said that, my fav cloths have nearly all been bought from other members here.