Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[marcodalondra]



To put it in another way: what weight range do you recommend for casual chinos? Thanks of your help

Best,
SKM

I have used Brisbane Moss Shakespeare Cotton Drill , 215 g/m2 for three chinos and have two or more lenght left for more chinos in the future.

Pretty happy to use them in the summer.

Brisbane Moss has another Cotton Drill, range Tennyson, 290 g/m2, but only in very conservative colours.

 

[S K M]



I have used Brisbane Moss Shakespeare Cotton Drill , 215 g/m2 for three chinos and have two or more lenght left for more chinos in the future.

Pretty happy to use them in the summer.

Brisbane Moss has another Cotton Drill, range Tennyson, 290 g/m2, but only in very conservative colours.

Thank you so much for your input! I guess I would be fine using something in the range of 300 gr/m though I can't calculate exactly how that translates to Moss' g/m2. I even considered some 500 g/m for very casual jeans like chinos, but I don't now if that would be too insane…

 

[archibaldleach]



Thank you so much for your input! I guess I would be fine using something in the range of 300 gr/m though I can't calculate exactly how that translates to Moss' g/m2. I even considered some 500 g/m for very casual jeans like chinos, but I don't now if that would be too insane…

500 grams is not insane if you are looking for something for wall and winter. My fall / winter trouser wardrobe has a bunch of 12-15 ounce wool (mostly flannel but the occasional cavalry twill), and cotton trousers in the 14-20 ounce range. They're good for keeping your legs warm on a cold day.

 

[Concordia]

21-oz corduroy is very useful stuff. Obviously twills will behave differently, but no reason not to experiment.

 

[SimonC]

Cotton also wears a lot cooler than wool, weight for weight. I have 14oz flannel trousers that are unbearably hot in situations where a 22oz moleskin / 24oz corduroy would be fine.

 

[S K M]

Thank you so much for your valuable inputs, gentlemen

 

[dopey]



It's a WWII term for a Mackinaw coat, which is a double breasted, shawl collar style that was originally worn by fur traders and lumberjacks. The style was later adopted for more civilian purposes and was even sold at Brooks Brothers in the early 20th century.
[...more info and pictures]

Thanks. That was great.

 

[othertravel]



Hey guys,

Is there a trusted source online for suiting? eBay and/or SF?

Bump. Any advice?

 

[venividivicibj]

Too vague. What mill/merchant? What type of fabric? Etc.

 

[tchoy]



Anyone has experience with either W. Bill's "Irish linen & Cotton" bunch or Harrison's "Mesolair" bunch for cotton trousers? Both have cotton twills available in a range of weights and colours.

Thanks!

I've used the Harrison's cotton for chino is excellent stuff Brisbane Moss also makes some really cottons and the price is very reasonable.

I've just discovered a bunch by Solbriati linen and cotton and having a few pairs of trousers make at the moment and it's one of the nicest I've seen.

 

[Slickman]



Bump. Any advice?

My advice is to order directly through your tailor

 

[greger]

Dopey,

Harry Simmons, from the 1920s, put out a number of books concerning tailoring, mtm and Mass-production. The Mackinaw coats are in some of his publications. If your tailor is not sure about a pattern, a little internet research.... His mtm book shows how to change your basic coat pattern into a number of coat styles by moving lines and adding and subtracting lines. While that book is aimed at general block patterns it works fine on personal patterns. There are other tailors that printed directions.

 

[gs77]



My advice is to order directly through your tailor

The problem that I have (of the tailors available in Toronto) is that most of them will charge twice the price for a suit made from 2x more expensive fabric that they source. That is ripp of, and they do it because they can. That is why I always go for basic or close to basic offering (assuming this is still decent).

If I want something a bit special, I am better of sourcing myself.

So, what is the good source?

 

[venividivicibj]

Search this thread. Its been written dozens of times before. I believe there was even a pretty comprehensive list done a year or two ago.

 

[usctrojans31]

@gs77,

Can't recommend @edmorel enough. He usually has sport coat lengths and some suiting, and the price/quality is always terrific. Check out his recent stuff available.