Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[KellySolari]

Planning to get a navy suit made in Lesser 16oz... Any comments on the swatches below?
FYI, 29616 seems to be a hopsack (correct me if I'm wrong) and 29608 is a twill weave.

@patrickBOOTH seems to be well-equipped to give me some advice!

 

[lordsuperb]



Planning to get a navy suit made in Lesser 16oz... Any comments on the swatches below? FYI, 29616 seems to be a hopsack (correct me if I'm wrong) and 29608 is a twill weave. @patrickBOOTH seems to be well-equipped to give me some advice!

Navy blue is a tough color to photograph but I have seen the swatches in person. Not a fan, check out harrison oyster in sharkskin. Their blues are divine.

 

[poorsod]

I have a DB in 29608 that I like a lot. At 13oz, Smith's Botany has an unmatched selection of sharkskin. Hopefully they are not letting Botany run out after Harrison's acquired Smiths.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

You can't really go wrong with lesser it seems. I have a navy from Harrison's P&B Universal that I like a lot too, much more hopsacky than anything I remember seeing in the Lesser book.

 

[Concordia]



I have a DB in 29608 that I like a lot. At 13oz, Smith's Botany has an unmatched selection of sharkskin. Hopefully they are not letting Botany run out after Harrison's acquired Smiths.

Rumor from their website is that Botany will be replenished this summer.

 

[emptym]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Did you have extra fabric, or did you use the same fabric from a different bolt?

I have been considering this. I had a chalk stripe suit made up and

the tailor made the original jacket with patch pockets, which I didn't request or want. They remade the jacket,

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

only for me to realize they had made the new jacket from the opposite side of the fabric from the pants, so they had to make it again. It's still a **** show, so I am considering just having someone else redo it.

Is it not possible to have patch pockets converted into regular ones? I thought I'd read about someone doing that. Maybe it was just the breast pocket.

 

[dieworkwear]



Is it not possible to have patch pockets converted into regular ones? I thought I'd read about someone doing that. Maybe it was just the breast pocket.

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[Arno]

If the fronts have been made with a seperate side body, there will often be a horizontal seam (wedge) that forms the basis of the pocket.
It's there to remove unnecessary fullness from the front dart over the hips. (this is also the reason why many check and wide stripe patterns don't match above the pocket)

For coats with patch pockets, this seam is hidden. About an inch lower, and covered with lining or cloth.
If you were to convert them, the pockets would be too low.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Interesting^

 

[Gauss17]

Is there an appreciable difference between flannel fabric from Dugdale vs. flannel fabric from JJ Minnis? I am about to order some trousers in a mid/light grey and am wondering if the $100 extra for Minnis is really worth it. Both are 14 oz flannel fabric.

 

[Concordia]

I don't what Dugdale flannel is like, but Minnis flannel is remarkably stiff and warm for its weight compared to, say, Fox.

 

[lordsuperb]

Tonik

 

[greger]



If the fronts have been made with a seperate side body, there will often be a horizontal seam (wedge) that forms the basis of the pocket.
It's there to remove unnecessary fullness from the front dart over the hips. (this is also the reason why many check and wide stripe patterns don't match above the pocket)

For coats with patch pockets, this seam is hidden. About an inch lower, and covered with lining or cloth.
If you were to convert them, the pockets would be too low.

Never heard it explained that way. Maybe you are explaining something else.

There is a wedge for the purpose of shortening the length of the front hem.

How high or low you want the pockets is another matter. 9 to 11 inches is concerned general depending on which school of thought you belong to and that depends on the proportions of the person among other details.

 

[Nayr-]

I have a jacket that has patch pockets and needs to be shortened. Would lets say an inch shorter throw off the proportions or is there another way to do it?

 

[Pliny]

Quote:
okay saw it, looks good in grey. Is a blue sharkskin a thing? Oyster has them, ut I seem to see mosly greys