Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ZRH1]

on the topic of cloth and geography, please note that many users do travel extensively and thus don't necessarily use the garment in the place they live. For instance, as we were here recently talking about thick overcoats in HK, I can well imagine that said gentleman, indulging in bespoke wear, will be for instance in cold Tokyo for some fine fattier sushi during winter. Another example would be a mainland Chinese living in Singapore who returns home often for a taste of the cold weather. To conclude and to show it is not only an Asian matter, I imagine a very high number of SF users are US based but travel either for work and/or holidays to Europe, where it is much colder than, ex. in Texas.

 

[mktitsworth]

Alright, I think I've sufficiently collected my unfunded liabilities. My last two for a while arrived this week while I was out of town.

The first was a matter of rarity and exclusivity. When A. Marchesan launched their webstore at the end of December with their vintage fabric selection, I picked up all of the vintage 1930s/1940s green herringbone with yellow and orange flecks. I was curious about the differences between what this vintage fabric would be like vs more modern fabrics and it's really cool. It's scratchy and tweedy and I think it'll make a great odd jacket that I'll never find on anyone else.

The second is a 100% cashmere barleycorn from Zegna. It's nice and soft and simple and will probably make a great heritage piece.

 

[brax]

Yes, agreed the 1kg cashmere needs to be given to a proper tailor. I think that’s why several give it to kotaro, or qemal. If I recall correctly, kotaro cut 4 of those coats before saying “no more.” He told me it was like stitching a rug because it was so thick! Lol. Also I think it broke his needles.

My USA tailor uses surgical strength needles so I hope he’ll be fine with my commission.

 

[brax]

Kotaro bitched about how hard it was to stitch a pre-Harrisons W. Bill Irish linen 13oz suit I ordered from some years ago. I've never heard this from any of my other tailors. Maybe he just likes to complain. But 1kg cashmere is just too much to make and to use IMHO. Only Alden can sell this idea and get his followers to fill the orders.

Well, we’ve had two straight weeks where the high temperature for the day was around 0 degrees. I think I’ll get good use from my doppio usu and my polo.

 

[ZRH1]

Alright, I think I've sufficiently collected my unfunded liabilities. My last two for a while arrived this week while I was out of town.

The first was a matter of rarity and exclusivity. When A. Marchesan launched their webstore at the end of December with their vintage fabric selection, I picked up all of the vintage 1930s/1940s green herringbone with yellow and orange flecks. I was curious about the differences between what this vintage fabric would be like vs more modern fabrics and it's really cool. It's scratchy and tweedy and I think it'll make a great odd jacket that I'll never find on anyone else.

Thank you for reminding me of that source, I looked up some interesting fabric, but whilst I appreciated the exact measuring of the weight, most of it is under 400, whereas I like my darker fabrics to be near 500 if not above if very tightly woven.

How do yours feel?

 

[camez_]

quick drop of the recently arrived cloth for my personal stack:

 

[DorianGreen]

quick drop of the recently arrived cloth for my personal stack:

Especially fond of the first fabric.

 

[L.deJong]

Especially fond of the first fabric.

Me too!

The glentwist to me is the least appealing, that pied du poul is very nice and would happly make up in a nice sb coat.

 

[_AMD]

Me too!

The glentwist to me is the least appealing, that pied du poul is very nice and would happly make up in a nice sb coat.

I think this is the first time I've seen houndstooth referred to this way.

 

[Simon A]

Let's be real – ANY overcoat in Hong Kong is too much. Hell, I'd say tailoring PERIOD is a challenge in that climate. Linen shorts and a lightweight t-shirt for me. 😂

In terms of the Everest cloth, I think it's expensive but *worth it* if it's really what you're looking for.

I hate to break it to you, but Hong Kong in December/January when the Manchurian gale is blowing from the north, 90% relative humidity and 5 degrees C, it feels more frigid than -10 C in the US Midwest. Local people dress their kids up like the Michelin Man in multiple layers of North Face quilted clothing, to the extent that they bounce if they fall over. My overcoats get some use there (although not made from 1 kg cloth).

 

[mktitsworth]

Thank you for reminding me of that source, I looked up some interesting fabric, but whilst I appreciated the exact measuring of the weight, most of it is under 400, whereas I like my darker fabrics to be near 500 if not above if very tightly woven.

How do yours feel?

I assume you're talking about the vintage cloth. It's stiff and scratchy and fuzzy. It's definitely different from the more modern, softer, smoother fabrics that I have. It'll be interesting to see how it makes up.

 

[L.deJong]

I think this is the first time I've seen houndstooth referred to this way.

I have to admit I did it on purpose, the snob that I am

 

[_AMD]

I have to admit I did it on purpose, the snob that I am

I appreciated learning something new today.

 

[konstantis]

May i ask if anyone has experience from the Bennett Silks and especially their 56% Linen, 44% Silk suitings fabrics ? Thanks.

 

[The Chai]

May i ask if anyone has experience from the Bennett Silks and especially their 56% Linen, 44% Silk suitings fabrics ? Thanks.

Me! I like it?