Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

I run pretty warm, but have found good Irish linen to absorb summer heat and humidity quite well. Soft tailoring, of course, and be careful to avoid high-supers cotton shirts, which can turn into plastic bags.
Next project for the summer: Maison Hellard herringbone, unconstructed navy suit. If that winds up being too fragile I will go back to the more conventional Irish finish, 13/14oz. Those can take a while to break in, but some time on a hanger should get it to settle down and drape properly.

Or— perhaps and— a linen fresco as an experiment. I haven’t seen it in person yet. But SR shops are showing some interest.

Hitchcock or Mina for the unconstructed navy suit?

 

[Concordia]

This was Hitchcock, a long time ago. I'm still debating as to whether it's worth getting recut. More or less unlined, but otherwise his standard construction, I think.

I don't do NsM for jackets.

Hitchcock or Mina for the unconstructed navy suit?

The next one will be an unconstructed India-made from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I used to care less about such things, but standard SR prices are starting to make me twitch just a little.

 

[ericgereghty]

80F is fall weather for me. Best thing to wear in summer time is nothing. You’ll sweat your balls off wearing tailored clothing

This is so obviously the correct answer unless you're in EXTREMELY temperate summer climates.

Like, yes, sure, heavier Irish linen will feel cooler than silk (I'd agree even on a WSL blend) on your body.

You're still going to feel like full on shite if you're wearing anything of the sort in legitimately hot/humid temps. The degree is suffering at that point is so minute it is of no consequence, to anybody being honest with themselves.

 

[MRex]

Splits the difference very nicely between firm heavy Irish weaves and flimsy Italians. With really excellent colors and patterns.

Do you have much experience with MH? I've been looking at a number of their fabrics, particularly the indigo Nimes-Osaka (it looks as though they rebranded it as Carnet de voyage indigo), but I've not heard much about them first-hand and would be curious to hear some thoughts.

 

[Despos]

Check out Drapers Portofino Linen book.
Suiting, jacketing or trousers. A Solaro Herringbone cloth, twill, hopsack and plain weave for jackets, trousers or suits.

These twills didn't photograph well.
Great for jackets

Plain weave is same construct as the 13/14 ounce but at 11.5 ounce it's not as stiff.
Just enough weight difference to improve the feel and drape but keep the character of the cloth. IMO they figured out the optimal weight for each weave and use.