Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

Hi all, any suggestions for an only wool equivalent for 3 seasons, similar to this colour way and glencheck?

There is a similar one in the Explorer bunch

 

[Bespoke DJP]

At last, a heavier flannel from Ermenegildo Zegna:

Best,

Dimitris

 

[DorianGreen]

I saw this really interesting fabric on the Anthology's news feed, could anyone help ID it? View attachment 2261751

Beautiful. Subtle but with a lot of character.

 

[duffyfluffy123]

What wool coating fabric do you guys use/like that is light weight and durable yet can hold shape?
Do you have any recommendations?

 

[circumspice]

There is a similar one in the Explorer bunch

They tend to use the term " guarded check" to describe those, and Standeven was my first thought for who tends to do things like that

 

[CLH03]

.

 

[Concordia]

Hi all, any suggestions for an only wool equivalent for 3 seasons, similar to this colour way and glencheck?

Depends on how warm you run. There are some in Fox's Worsted Classics, although that is a bit on the fuzzy side. I don't know about specific colors, but Harrison's Fine Classics is 11/12oz and not overly warm. If you want something that can handle most of the summer and won't look stupid in cooler weather, Fox Air might work.

 

[Sfba]

Check out Drapers Ascot 18021
Light grey and is mottled, mix of light and darker yarns that give it more character. This is unusual for a light weight, light grey cloth. The minis looks flat and one dimensional when you compare the two.
Ascot cloth is lighter, 25Og but tailors and wears great. Drapes well above its weight.

Finally something positive about the 2 ply!

I wish I had this feedback before commissioning 2 4-ply suits last year; the 4-ply is decidedly not a summer suit. Even its wrinkle resistance is less than that of the same weight of Superbio. It’s neither the best-in-class drape in the 13 oz range nor a proper summer suit due to its weight.

 

[jonathanS]

Finally something positive about the 2 ply!

I wish I had this feedback before commissioning 2 4-ply suits last year; the 4-ply is decidedly not a summer suit. Even its wrinkle resistance is less than that of the same weight of Superbio. It’s neither the best-in-class drape in the 13 oz range nor a proper summer suit due to its weight.

I have been beating this drum ever since I got a 4ply suit. It’s a great warm weather winter suit (Florida winter). It’s not for a tropical or subtropical summer. It’s too hot. Great fabric. But not a summer suit.

Fox air, imo, is better for summer. Which is why (above) I mentioned I got 2 Fox air and 2 drapers ascot trousers made. My trouser maker actually liked the 2ply ascot for summers in Napoli.

 

[epsilon22]

I have been beating this drum ever since I got a 4ply suit. It’s a great warm weather winter suit (Florida winter). It’s not for a tropical or subtropical summer. It’s too hot. Great fabric. But not a summer suit.

Fox air, imo, is better for summer. Which is why (above) I mentioned I got 2 Fox air and 2 drapers ascot trousers made. My trouser maker actually liked the 2ply ascot for summers in Napoli.

Would love to hear your opinion on how the 2-ply compare against fox air. Florida is hotter and more humid than peak NYC summer so anything that works for you should be more than sufficient for me haha.

I agree with both of you that 4-ply isn't proper summer fabric. I have one suit made in VBC "Spring Four Ply" (probably different branding for the Asian market?) which feel almost identical to the ascot 4-ply, but it's not something I wore outdoors or if my commute involved a lot of walking.

I have a light high twist from Rota's book, I'm guessing it might be VBC/Drapers 2-ply but not sure, I think it's fine for summer. Unfortunately the cut is too slim so comfort is a bit lacking, but purely based on the fabric I'd grab that over 4-ply. The 4-ply is better at keeping the front crease though.

 

[jonathanS]

Would love to hear your opinion on how the 2-ply compare against fox air. Florida is hotter and more humid than peak NYC summer so anything that works for you should be more than sufficient for me haha.

I agree with both of you that 4-ply isn't proper summer fabric. I have one suit made in VBC "Spring Four Ply" (probably different branding for the Asian market?) which feel almost identical to the ascot 4-ply, but it's not something I wore outdoors or if my commute involved a lot of walking.

I have a light high twist from Rota's book, I'm guessing it might be VBC/Drapers 2-ply but not sure, I think it's fine for summer. Unfortunately the cut is too slim so comfort is a bit lacking, but purely based on the fabric I'd grab that over 4-ply. The 4-ply is better at keeping the front crease though.

I try to stay in air conditioning to be honest.

But, I’m still thinking about it: I like fox air but I was recently on a trip to Washington DC and it was rather warm walking around.

I haven’t used the drapers 2ply yet. I think, given Despos’s and Marco’s (my trouser maker) suggestion, I may try it on the next order. I was dissuaded by the people who said “this won’t hold its shape” - but I think it may be fine. Marco seemed to like the 2ply for Napoli summers, so there’s that.

Also, in Florida summers, on the weekends, you won’t find me in trousers - always linen shorts.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Dear all,
I'm looking to recreate a splendid grey brown barleycord tweed jacket that Mr Tomasso Capozzoli was pictured sporting.
I believe it is the attached, but i cannot locate the bunch. Could anyone identify it, or something similar?
Thank you.

 

[krudsma]

I'm looking for a brown tweed but with a cooler tone - a lot of the stuff I'm seeing skews more red/yellow.

Something maybe in this neighborhood? Color is right but I'd prefer something with a little more surface interest. Ideally in the 15 - 17 oz. range.

 

[Concordia]

Other Tweeds - Ardalanish

More of our range of tweeds. Sold in lengths of up to 4m. Please contact us for wholesale prices. All of our tweeds are woven at Ardalanish, using 100% pure new Hebridean, Manx and Shetland wool. Our unique shades are achieved through careful sorting and creative blending.

ardalanish.com

 

[CLH03]

I'm looking for a brown tweed but with a cooler tone - a lot of the stuff I'm seeing skews more red/yellow.

Something maybe in this neighborhood? Color is right but I'd prefer something with a little more surface interest. Ideally in the 15 - 17 oz. range.

Dugdale ecology, some of the Marling and Evan’s undyed collection