Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

I have a size 40 chest these days but because I get a drape cut with a longer skirt ala 80s Armani - It is 3.5 metres for a 2 piece (4.25 metres if it is patterned)

 

[L.deJong]

I am basically you. 4m should cover a 3 piece SB. 5.5 would be the safest to add a spare pair of trousers. This is probably a case where the tailor would be way more comfortable dialing back metre tenths per their judgment than us rank amateurs.

B&Tailor did two trousers in a SB three piece out of Five metres. Vest had no lapels,and was SB as well. This was out of Kolecho's solid mid grey flannel run a few years back. I'd be hesitant to recommend the same with a directional fabric - if we were talking pinstripes, probably less risky but herringbone may be tricky a la corduroy which runs one way

Oh my tailor is and old and Italian, he once cut me a jacket out of 2.1m, a plain navy hopsack, but looking back at it it's almost 5cm shorter than all my other jackets
So I would always buy a little more than what he really needs just to be on the safe side. Plus the difference between say 4m and 3,5m kan make a huge difference for the tailor, and will cost you max. around 55 bucks extra, I think that is worth it. So many people try and safe money on cloth lenghts and in the end there is not enough...
Oh and keep in mind some flannels also run one way! The Standeven Stonedale flannels for instance.

 

[The Chai]

I had this made several months ago but never posted it. Pow blue overcheck with harrisons 2080 flannel

 

[RogerC]

Do you have any Donnegal tweed bunches you recommend for a casual suit? Is Shetland or merino better?

I have recently had a 3-piece done in Thornproof (the lighter weight half of the book), which is woven more tightly than traditional Donegals and should stand up better to trouser use.

 

[camez_]

My project to fund 20 liabilities this year is almost finished and should wrap up end of January when I finally pick up the missing pieces.

Had many fittings (see ongoing bespoke thread) the last two days and I'm still processing them. I'll narrow down to mainly two or three tailors in the next year.

 

[JibranK]

I had this made several months ago but never posted it. Pow blue overcheck with harrisons 2080 flannel View attachment 2259701 View attachment 2259703 View attachment 2259705

Beautiful fabric. I was planning to have some suits made up in it soon.

This photo is really helpful because I wasn't sure of the scale of the PoW version from photos of the fabric alone. Like it's clear here that it's not large enough in scale to wear the coat separately, as I had wondered about.

 

[camez_]

Do you have any Donnegal tweed bunches you recommend for a casual suit? Is Shetland or merino better?

Check molloy and sons for that

 

[aristoi bcn]

Vintage Ermenegildo Zegna Iter. Some kind of worsted flannel 490g.

 

[ppk]

I need a pair of lightweight light grey trousers and I'm thinking of making them in Minnis Fresco Lite III which is 280g. I'm wondering if they are too light.

Thoughts?

 

[CLH03]

I need a pair of lightweight light grey trousers and I'm thinking of making them in Minnis Fresco Lite III which is 280g. I'm wondering if they are too light.

Thoughts?

Fresco lite is just okay. Have a pair of mid grey, which are just kind of boring. No real drape, color depth is lacking. I prefer the 2 ply fresco or Standeven explorer 2 ply. Better drape with the heavier weight, and colors are better IMO.

 

[Despos]

Check out Drapers Ascot 18021
Light grey and is mottled, mix of light and darker yarns that give it more character. This is unusual for a light weight, light grey cloth. The minis looks flat and one dimensional when you compare the two.
Ascot cloth is lighter, 25Og but tailors and wears great. Drapes well above its weight.

 

[jonathanS]

Check out Drapers Ascot 18021
Light grey and is mottled, mix of light and darker yarns that give it more character. This is unusual for a light weight, light grey cloth. The minis looks flat and one dimensional when you compare the two.
Ascot cloth is lighter, 25Og but tailors and wears great. Drapes well above its weight.

how do you like the 2ply drapers ascot vs 4ply?

I recently placed an order. Ended up going with the fox air light gray. It was a bit mottled with a bit of character, if you will. I wasn’t sure about the drapers 2ply (250g). I ended up ordering 2 pair of the 4ply (medium gray & taupe-gray) and 2 pairs of the fox air (beige and light gray)

Haven’t received the order yet; will check on it next month on my Italy trip.

 

[Despos]

They are apples and mangos. Both are good for what they are but different cloths for different purposes.
Great light weight cloth
Great heavier weight cloth

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi all, any suggestions for an only wool equivalent for 3 seasons, similar to this colour way and glencheck?

 

[RogerC]

I saw this really interesting fabric on the Anthology's news feed, could anyone help ID it?