Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

The only advantage I can feel is that the First Class feels smoother to the touch, but only when compared to other high-twists.

How does it compare to fox air?

 

[CLH03]

Random pick-up. Haven’t heard of this bunch but it is hefty and scratchy. Should make for some decent pantaloons.

 

[kid1002]

How does it compare to fox air?

Fox Air on-book seems scratchier to me than First Class, but I don’t have anything made of Fox Air yet to compare the two as completed garments.

 

[wozniak]

At the risk of reigniting the old blazersuit discussion, let me say as a newbie I don't understand everything. This is very close up bright outdoor sun photo of a navy jacket suit separate in Nailhead that I have, next to a high weave fabric from VBC designed specifically for sports jackets/coat. Up close like this you can see the pattern difference of the fabrics and the high twist from VBC is slightly rougher to the hand. One is 280G and the other 300G. I am aware the high twist fabric - if made into a navy sport coat would be more durable and wrinkle resistant.

Step the camera back a two feet, and in artificial lighting. I can't see the difference. My suit jacket does not have dark blue/black buttons, but slightly contrasting color ones, soft shoulder (minimal pad), and notch lapels. Visually, how would anyone (ok you experts may) know I was wearing an "Orphan Suit jacket" vs a navy sport coat with a nice pair of grey trousers ?

You guys know more than me. Please help me understand what I am missing. I am trying to understand if I should have a navy sports jacket separately made for me - and keep the suit as a suit. I might wear a suit 3 times a year, a sport coat/jacket probably once a week.

 

[ericgereghty]

Outside of us weirdos, NOBODY will notice...no harm in getting an actual navy blazer, but I'd wager the overwhelming majority of the world has never once thought of the term "orphaned suit jacket"

 

[CLH03]

At the risk of reigniting the old blazersuit discussion, let me say as a newbie I don't understand everything. This is very close up bright outdoor sun photo of a navy jacket suit separate in Nailhead that I have, next to a high weave fabric from VBC designed specifically for sports jackets/coat. Up close like this you can see the pattern difference of the fabrics and the high twist from VBC is slightly rougher to the hand. One is 280G and the other 300G. I am aware the high twist fabric - if made into a navy sport coat would be more durable and wrinkle resistant.

Step the camera back a two feet, and in artificial lighting. I can't see the difference. My suit jacket does not have dark blue/black buttons, but slightly contrasting color ones, soft shoulder (minimal pad), and notch lapels. Visually, how would anyone (ok you experts may) know I was wearing an "Orphan Suit jacket" vs a navy sport coat with a nice pair of grey trousers ?

You guys know more than me. Please help me understand what I am missing. I am trying to understand if I should have a navy sports jacket separately made for me - and keep the suit as a suit. I might wear a suit 3 times a year, a sport coat/jacket probably once a week.

I’m not against the “blazer suit” idea conceptually, and I have a navy suit that I’ll wear as a navy sport coat every once in a while.

The biggest issue I have with the idea is that you’re going to wear the jacket out faster than you normally would.

If you’re worried about getting a sport coat that’s too close to your suit, I would just get a darker navy than you already have for the sport coat.

 

[wozniak]

Outside of us weirdos, NOBODY will notice...no harm in getting an actual navy blazer, but I'd wager the overwhelming majority of the world has never once thought of the term "orphaned suit jacket"

any time I dive into a new interest - shoes, luggage, suits, watches, etc.... I do go down a rabbit hole. Thanks for the reassurance.

I do have an older darker navy blazer in hopsack, that is on its last legs. I will consider a separate replacement later this year.

 

[classicalthunde]

Visually, how would anyone (ok you experts may) know I was wearing an "Orphan Suit jacket" vs a navy sport coat with a nice pair of grey trousers

As mentioned above, 99.5% of GenPop wouldn't know, and I would bet in context that 90% of SF dudes wouldn't realize in an IRL context.

Generally speaking, the three main give aways are texture (both seem to be decent here but the sport coat does have more), sheen (at least in this picture, the sport coat appears to have slightly less sheen) and style details (contrasting buttons and patch pockets help rusticate a suit jacket to be closer to a sport coat)

 

[SimonC]

I’ve done it the other way around - I have a handful of (SB and DB) suits where the trousers have worn out or got damaged and I’ve had the buttons swapped out (e.g. for mother of pearl) to intentionally turn an orphaned suit jacket into a blazer.

However they are all plain navy. I wouldn’t try it with something in grey or pinstripe / chalkstripe - that to me is the very definition of ‘orphaned suit jacket’.

 

[wozniak]

I’ve done it the other way around - I have a handful of (SB and DB) suits where the trousers have worn out or got damaged and I’ve had the buttons swapped out (e.g. for mother of pearl) to intentionally turn an orphaned suit jacket into a blazer.

However they are all plain navy. I wouldn’t try it with something in grey or pinstripe / chalkstripe - that to me is the very definition of ‘orphaned suit jacket’.

I had considered getting second pair of pants, not done that yet.

 

[tim_horton]

Outside of us weirdos, NOBODY will notice

**I** would know... and the knowledge would gnaw at me.

I’m not against the “blazer suit” idea conceptually, and I have a navy suit that I’ll wear as a navy sport coat every once in a while.

My biggest issue with the blazer suit is it isn't an optimal suit or jacket. A navy suit with patch pockets just looks odd to me, even more odd than a navy sports coat with flapped or jetted pockets in smooth worsted wool. Basically I'd rather use an orphaned navy suit jacket as a blazer than have a blazer suit made.

 

[Nilles]

In line with this discussion, have people here seriously worn out their jackets to a practically unusable extend?
Looking at some of my older clothes I can hardly imagine burning through clothes that are not trousers or socks in a shorter period than say, 10 years or so. Especially if I look at some of the old jackets Bruce Boyer has worn or some of the old jackets Salmon Crompton has shown.

 

[tim_horton]

In line with this discussion, have people here seriously worn out their jackets to a practically unusable extend?

Has never happened to me with a jacket.

Of course, I only use 20 oz. or greater fabrics, and anything less than 30 is a summer weight.

 

[Nilles]

Has never happened to me with a jacket.

Of course, I only use 20 oz. or greater fabrics, and anything less than 30 is a summer weight.

1kg LL Cashmere is a blazer fabric, not a coating fabric of course.

On a related note, what are good jacketing bunches for a three-ish season jacket?
I think I might move away from green tweed towards something like 350 to 400 ish grams jacketing, so like 13/14 ish oz?

 

[oldworldelegance]

1kg LL Cashmere is a blazer fabric, not a coating fabric of course.

On a related note, what are good jacketing bunches for a three-ish season jacket?
I think I might move away from green tweed towards something like 350 to 400 ish grams jacketing, so like 13/14 ish oz?

It depends on how 'tweedy' you want it. I would suggest:
- Fox Somerset Jacketing
- Abraham Moon (mainly Lambswool)
- P&H Glenroyal