Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

Bummer. The Fox Sport collection is being discontinued. I was looking to commission a blazer in the FS27 dark navy hopsack, but that's out of stock. The FS26 midnight hopsack is a bit too dark, I think.

Anyone know of any alternative hopsacks in a similar four season weight of 320/350g; 11/12oz? I know of the heavier 415/430g Taylor & Lodge and Bateman Ogden options, but worry they're too heavy for spring/summer.

I haven't ruled out mock leno as an alternative but am looking for hopsack specifically...

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

 

[Spaghettimatt]

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

Thanks. I had heard T&L is dead. I wonder if they made for Fox and that's why the Fox Sport collection is dead.

I think it will come down to Bateman Apollo hopsack or a heavy mock leno (finmeresco, dugdale)... so I guess the question is whether I want to sacrifice the height of summer (Bateman hopsack) or depths of winter (heavy mock leno).

 

[jonathanS]

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

How does the Monte Carlo compare with the heavier mock Leno (eg. Finmeresco, or fresco books)

 

[camez_]

How does the Monte Carlo compare with the heavier mock Leno (eg. Finmeresco, or fresco books)

way finer, not as sturdy. wouldn't opt for it outside of summer / warm days since it is quite formal

 

[classicalthunde]

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

I would imagine that Fox would replace in kind with something else of a similar fabric quality, right? Its odd that there's such a gap in fabric offerings for a robust, midweight hopsack for blazers...

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks. I had heard T&L is dead. I wonder if they made for Fox and that's why the Fox Sport collection is dead.

This crossed my mind too...but I was under the impression that Fox makes their own cloth. @camez_ any insight?

 

[Concordia]

I was just talking about a SR tailor about this today. Fox's product line has more or less tripled in the last few years. They have designed and specified all of that, but there's no way that they tripled the number of mills they own in Somerset. So just as Lesser, Smiths, et al, contract with mills, so will they. Your best protection is to see what the quality of the particular bunch is.

 

[solid_olid]

@tim_horton @WhereNext @ericgereghty

Thanks for the advice and framing! The weddings tend to be up to cocktail attire formality, which linen I think seems fine for? Let me know if you think differently. I don’t mind looking a bit disheveled, that’s kind of my vibe anyways. Nicest thing anyone’s said to me recently was my little cousin saying I look like Jason Momoa.

I do think Dove grey is a good idea generally, I think it’s just a meh color for my skin tone. Too cool.

Overall l, really helpful thought - I’m going to investigate the suggested wool linens and frescos, and I’m thinking I’ll pick one of those. Thanks all!

 

[Concordia]

A suit in Smith’s Blue Riband recently arrived.

I LOVE this fabric. Holds a crease, is great for my internal thermometer, and the finish is fantastic. I prefer it to Premier Cru by far.

My suit is in dark grey. I have a strong preference for grey over navy but there are some nice navies in Blue Riband so I was thinking of going with one of those next… but I see Blue Riband has been pulled from the Harrison’s website. So maybe it’s gone for good.

I just had a more or less final fitting with a replacement blazer from this book today. If I'd known how much I would have liked it, I would have figured out some kind of suit to make from it. There isn't much of that quality in that weight. And fabulous color, too!

 

[tim_horton]

I just had a more or less final fitting with a replacement blazer from this book today. If I'd known how much I would have liked it, I would have figured out some kind of suit to make from it. There isn't much of that quality in that weight. And fabulous color, too!

I e-mailed Harrison’s and while the book is being discontinued, they still have stock. Here is the list they gave me. I’m going to have Stephen Hitchcock grab some solid navy for suit when he’s in town in a few weeks.

 

[Concordia]

Is there a set of pics of these, for those who didn't memorize the book?

 

[DaAlSh]

This crossed my mind too...but I was under the impression that Fox makes their own cloth. @camez_ any insight?

They make some of their own cloth - looking at their website it would seem only Fox tweed and Golden Fox - so not even the flannel they were once famous for....

 

[tim_horton]

Is there a set of pics of these, for those who didn't memorize the book?

Ha no, they took the book off their website, but I’m going to ask Stephen to bring the swatch book with him. I’m hoping one of those is a navy!

 

[Concordia]

I see him next week-- shall inquire!

 

[hpreston]

Gentleman - could use some advice on fabric for a suit I’ll be ordering shortly via NMWA/Carrara (great experience with them so far). Please help with my crippling indecision 😁

Suit will be used for warm/hot weather summer weddings as I’m hitting “that age” where these come non stop. Since I run hot and sweaty naturally, breathability is a priority, although I don’t totally want to compromise on weight/drape (I’m gonna sweat regardless). I’d like to do something more interesting/fun than basic navy/greg, and prefer warm tone fabrics - I am thinking a tobacco brown is the move. A bit of texture/pattern is great as well, though I would like to keep it reasonably dressy. Not too concerned with durability since I’m only going to wear this maybe 3-4 times a year.

Given the above preferences, I’ve been looking mostly at fresco/high-twist wool and linens. In the shop I was looking at Italian linens, but after a bit more research I’d probably go for Irish - this is currently the thing I’m most likely to choose. Happy to hear suggestions on specific colors/patterns, but I think I will be happy with that classic cigar/tobacco brown, and hopefully I can find a fabric they have with a bit of yellow undertone mixed in with the red.

Fresco I could see myself choosing given its performance benefits and ability to dress up a little better, but I haven’t found much in the way of colors that suit my taste. Nothing as warm tone, fun, and summery as the linen - the best things seem to be beiges and medium dark browns. Looked mostly at lascot drapers 2/4 ply and minnis.

Fox air did some have more fun and texture fabrics, but none hit quite the right balance - some small checks that I’m skeptical would work for a suit, beautifully textured olive and reddish brown colors that were linen esque in skin, but just not quite what I was looking for.

Any wise words of wisdom for me? I was also thinking about looking for some wool-linen blends, which seem to not be commonly used for suiting, but seems to fit my criteria well? Appreciate the advice.

Pictures:
1) fox air tight check
2) fox air textured red brown and olive
3/4) minnis fresco
5) portofino linen plain weave
6/7) portofino linen textured weaves.

How about the tobacco linen No Man just did preorders for Carrara (I’m sure Greg can get you the cloth ID)


I also like this:

FA36 : Walnut Hairline Plain Weave

This cloth is a walnut hairline plain weave. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the summer heat...

foxflannel.com

or this:

FA15 : Beige Melange Plain Weave

This cloth is a plain weave on a base of beige melange with ecru to give a lively appearance to the colour tone of the cloth. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel...

foxflannel.com

And I know you said no blues or greys, but I’ve worn this to a couple of weddings…. And thought I looked good, didn’t stand out too much, and was comfortable

FA1 : Plain Weave Navy Classic Prince of Wales Check

This cloth is a Navy classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the summer...

foxflannel.com