Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[lordsuperb]

I’m glad I could inspire a debate. My most recent commission was also (mostly) cotton, so I suppose I am profligate.

View attachment 2147915

Fabric details?

 

[bourbonbasted]

Fabric details?

Zegna CashCo 75113.

 

[jonathanS]

My Neapolitan bespoke cotton suit from Iorio is one of my favourites. Circa 260g tan cotton twill. It wrinkles a lot but feels featherweight and the handmade details shine in this cloth. Rustic beauty I guess.

To me, cotton is for the guy who’s placed way too many orders. It’s not practical. But if you like it, go for it. I’d suggest doing it with a Neapolitan tailor first to mitigate any potential disappointment (and expenditure on a suit that’s not a staple / workhorse suit).

 

[Nico]

Any suggestions on lightweight pure cashmere jacketing in grey herringbone? I'm not after something rustic/spongey.

Best candidate so far attached.

This one looked good too but seems discontinued: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/262705

Also: https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/87418/

 

[aristoi bcn]

Any suggestions on lightweight pure cashmere jacketing in grey herringbone? I'm not after something rustic/spongey.

Best candidate so far attached.

This one looked good too but seems discontinued: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/262705

Also: https://www.harrisons1863.com/product/87418/

The Minnis is woollen cashmere and it is woven by Joshua Ellis. It is spongey. The Harrisons is worsted, much lighter and silkier in hand.

 

[double00]

Posting this q both here and in the overcoat thread b/c the two have some non-overlapping participants:

Looking for heavy, very wide herringbones for an overcoat.

I know Marling & Evans makes some lovely 720g spongy herringbones, and I'm not against going in that direction – but really I'm looking for something wider.

Even this wouldn't be too wide:

View attachment 2147023

Any recommendations?

heavy and spongy , wide patterned hb ? you might look at blanket fabrics too

 

[camez_]

Cotton is not my expertise and would like a crash course on what fabric weights to use for the summer and what weights to use for the winter.

up to 320g is fine for summer, 420g for spring/autumn - winter/autumn screams for corduroy and moleskine

 

[ericgereghty]

A debate that pops-up every now and then, the one of the cotton suit.


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Not that you need to defend your POV ("I like it gotdamnit" is plenty adequate lol), but curious why, or I guess in what scenarios do you prefer cotton to linen for suiting? Or do you just prefer cotton to linen, full stop?

To me, cotton is for the guy who’s placed way too many orders. It’s not practical. But if you like it, go for it. I’d suggest doing it with a Neapolitan tailor first to mitigate any potential disappointment (and expenditure on a suit that’s not a staple / workhorse suit).

I think this is fair. At some point, if you've got enough stuff there's no harm in experimenting or dabbling, if you're not one of those weirdos (me) content with blue/grey suiting

 

[jssdc]

I guess I’m just not clear on what cotton does, either stylistically or functionally, that’s not done better by another fabric choice.

 

[jeremygo]

This is from a Die Workwear post from a couple years ago that sums up why (I think) some folks like cotton over linen in some situations. For what it’s worth I have 2 heavy cotton sport coats that I quite like. I feel they look
casual/lived in in a very “professorial” way that appeals to me.

Put On a Happy Suit

A few years ago, someone posted a thread on Reddit’s Female Fashion Advice with the title “I Love to Dress...

putthison.com

A few years ago, I spoke to Michael Hill, co-owner and Creative Director of Drake’s, who told me that he loves cotton suits for the same reasons people hate them. “They’re stiff, they crumple, the color fades. I can picture my cotton suit sitting on the end of my rail at home now. The way the sleeves curl, it looks like my arms are in them, and the sleeves will probably stay like that even after the jacket has been cleaned. If you get one in heavy drill cotton, the fabric almost molds to your body. That’s the wonderful thing about cotton suits. They’re casual and age with you, much like a good pair of jeans.”

 

[jonathanS]

Not that you need to defend your POV ("I like it gotdamnit" is plenty adequate lol), but curious why, or I guess in what scenarios do you prefer cotton to linen for suiting? Or do you just prefer cotton to linen, full stop?

I think this is fair. At some point, if you've got enough stuff there's no harm in experimenting or dabbling, if you're not one of those weirdos (me) content with blue/grey suiting

This is from a Die Workwear post from a couple years ago that sums up why (I think) some folks like cotton over linen in some situations. For what it’s worth I have 2 heavy cotton sport coats that I quite like. I feel they look
casual/lived in in a very “professorial” way that appeals to me.

Put On a Happy Suit

A few years ago, someone posted a thread on Reddit’s Female Fashion Advice with the title “I Love to Dress...

putthison.com

For me, these are the cream db linens or solaro suits. I wouldn’t wear them into the office, but I call them my vacation suits. They make my happy to wear.

Typically, I’d stay away from browns as well, but, I broke that rule for a solaro & may break it again for a fox air brown or olive suit. It’s definitely on my list of wants.

But, for business, I don’t like browns.

 

[TheLawBeard]

For me, these are the cream db linens or solaro suits. I wouldn’t wear them into the office, but I call them my vacation suits. They make my happy to wear.

Typically, I’d stay away from browns as well, but, I broke that rule for a solaro & may break it again for a fox air brown or olive suit. It’s definitely on my list of wants.

But, for business, I don’t like browns.

Fox air char brown might fit your desires then. It’s brown but also a hint of not-brown.

 

[jonathanS]

Fox air char brown might fit your desires then. It’s brown but also a hint of not-brown.

FA5 : Plain Weave Walnut Classic Prince of Wales Check

This cloth is a Walnut classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the...

foxflannel.com

FA4 : Plain Weave Olive Classic Prince of Wales Check

This cloth is a Olive classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the summer...

foxflannel.com

I was looking at one of those, probably as a sb suit from kotaro. I would’ve done db suit from satoki, unfortunately that’s not an option.

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi all, I would greatly appreciate opinions/input on the following:
i am considering these two fabric colourway options/patterns below for two unlined sport coats, however, as they are for spring summer - any ideas for complementary trousers? I was thinking dove grey frescos, dark blue frescos, offwhite or cream irish linen?

- any particular fresco or tropical wool suggestion which doesnt come off as too ‘suity’

Would appreciate all help and advice! Kindest regards!

 

[DorianGreen]

Hi all, I would greatly appreciate opinions/input on the following:
i am considering these two fabric colourway options/patterns below for two unlined sport coats, however, as they are for spring summer - any ideas for complementary trousers? I was thinking dove grey frescos, dark blue frescos, offwhite or cream irish linen?

- any particular fresco or tropical wool suggestion which doesnt come off as too ‘suity’

Would appreciate all help and advice! Kindest regards!

The options you mentioned are all good, in my opinion. I would add a cool pink linen for the greyish cloth, if it's not too adventurous, and a light blue and an olive linen for the beige/tan one.