Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[DavidLane]

I love heavier cloths but personally would not go that heavy for a linen suit. The regular weight W Bill/Spence Bryson stuff would be my choice.

I agree, which is why I am struggling picking the cloth. The W.Bill is the standard, but I really don't like that the finish is smooth. I like the texture that the Fox hopsack has, but it really is stiff and heavy. I don't think it would work through the summer. The SB stuff is hard to tell from the images what kind of finish they have.

I will keep poking around. Thank you for all the suggestions.

-DL

 

[reidd]

I agree, which is why I am struggling picking the cloth. The W.Bill is the standard, but I really don't like that the finish is smooth. I like the texture that the Fox hopsack has, but it really is stiff and heavy. I don't think it would work through the summer. The SB stuff is hard to tell from the images what kind of finish they have.

I will keep poking around. Thank you for all the suggestions.

-DL

Spence Bryson is the same as W.Bill. I believe they make the W. Bill bunch in fact.

 

[camez_]

thank you. I got a swatch via a tailor less than two years ago but immediately dismissed it as to my touch it felt even thinner than W. Bill at 380. Perhaps I had an old bunch?

the finish is different. it is way softer and less stiff as the wbill but still just a tad thicker. also, there is another quality in the same bunch at 530g which is even thicker than the first one.

@reidd this is correct.

 

[ZRH1]

I agree, which is why I am struggling picking the cloth. The W.Bill is the standard, but I really don't like that the finish is smooth. I like the texture that the Fox hopsack has, but it really is stiff and heavy. I don't think it would work through the summer. The SB stuff is hard to tell from the images what kind of finish they have.

I will keep poking around. Thank you for all the suggestions.

-DL

I can really vouch for Dugdale Lisburn, as I echo the smooth WB sentiment and I already commissioned a trouser with DL. It has texture and is not smooth without being considerably heavier.

 

[kolecho]

I can really vouch for Dugdale Lisburn, as I echo the smooth WB sentiment and I already commissioned a trouser with DL. It has texture and is not smooth without being considerably heavier.

Have some Irish linen suits in Minnis, W. Bill and Dugdale Lisburn. Lisburn is about the same wight as the rest but has nice surface interest and weave is more open. Wears cooler than the other two. Lisburn gets my vote these days. Forget about anything heavier if you want to wear it in the warmer months.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

I have this weird idea of making a double breasted navy suit in this HEAVY Fox Barathea

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea

Part of Fox Brothers' eveningwear collection, this classic Barathea is available in dark navy & black. This traditional textured cloth is woven in 100% pure new wool, and is perfect for formal tailoring.

foxflannel.com

I love the super dark navy, really havent found anything similarly dark so far, and I believe it has enough texture to even work as a seperate jacket. What do you guys think? Am I completely over the line here?
Does anybody have other alternatives that are similarly dark and have enough surface texture to seperate from High Twist Trousers?

 

[DorianGreen]

I have this weird idea of making a double breasted navy suit in this HEAVY Fox Barathea

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea

Part of Fox Brothers' eveningwear collection, this classic Barathea is available in dark navy & black. This traditional textured cloth is woven in 100% pure new wool, and is perfect for formal tailoring.

foxflannel.com

I love the super dark navy, really havent found anything similarly dark so far, and I believe it has enough texture to even work as a seperate jacket. What do you guys think? Am I completely over the line here?
Does anybody have other alternatives that are similarly dark and have enough surface texture to seperate from High Twist Trousers?

Not too extravagant, in my opinion. As you said, the fabric has great texture and presence and I can see it working for separates.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Was a bit worried about the extreme weight...

 

[DorianGreen]

Was a bit worried about the extreme weight...

Of course, not a summer weight.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Yeah, but should be good enough September through May in Central Europe.
Now I only need to decide who to use

 

[Concordia]

Does anyone have an opinion on the wear and handle of Harrisons Fine Classics? I’ve heard this is the present equivalent of the old Lesser in the 370g category. How does it compare to Drapers Superbio in terms of drape, heat retention, and handle?

It aims at the same aesthetic as Lesser 13 and 11/12. It isn’t as durable as the 13, of course, at least the older ones. Not sure about post-merger. But I have heard that Lesser 11/12 is now much less good than before and was always a bit softer than some liked. So if you want that weight and some crispness, it is a reasonable option.

 

[L.deJong]

It aims at the same aesthetic as Lesser 13 and 11/12. It isn’t as durable as the 13, of course, at least the older ones. Not sure about post-merger. But I have heard that Lesser 11/12 is now much less good than before and was always a bit softer than some liked. So if you want that weight and some crispness, it is a reasonable option.

Harrison's keeps saying that they did not change anything to the lesser 13 cloth. In the most recent video made by Thomas Mahon they assured the viewers that it was the same cloth.


So either it's not true? Or it's placebo. But I think it was Despos that said the same thing, and I trust tailors more then sales agents.

 

[Concordia]

Hard to know. Bolts of the older legendary 13oz might actually be sturdier or may just have dried out. I should get another from that book just to see. Between LL and other exotica, I have drifted away from Lesser recently.

 

[Baked Potato]

Tips on heavier camel coloured (wool) overcoat fabrics (over or around 700g)? Something like this LP fabric colourwise.

 

[ZRH1]

I have this weird idea of making a double breasted navy suit in this HEAVY Fox Barathea

Fox Brothers Dark Navy Barathea

Part of Fox Brothers' eveningwear collection, this classic Barathea is available in dark navy & black. This traditional textured cloth is woven in 100% pure new wool, and is perfect for formal tailoring.

foxflannel.com

I love the super dark navy, really havent found anything similarly dark so far, and I believe it has enough texture to even work as a seperate jacket. What do you guys think? Am I completely over the line here?
Does anybody have other alternatives that are similarly dark and have enough surface texture to seperate from High Twist Trousers?

I have a SB in that. Heavy but good!