Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[circumspice]

How much travel are you planning? I love linen, but have become a bit of a realist on its utility for travel - wool just is more resilient. So, I'd have more of a bias for something like a WSL blend.

 

[reidd]

Interesting, what are your preferred bunches in that realm?

Standeven Heritage Twist. Holds its shape as well as any trousering I have used.

 

[camez_]

I've finally decided on the cloth that will be funded this trip - will be quite a big order with 4 different tailors in Istanbul, most of it will be split between Sedat Selvi, Muhammet Nasyrlayev, Zülal Akbulut and will try out Sahin Demir for one comission

vintage selfstripe, sb suit

navy wool sb (maybe db, not sure yet) jacket, jetted pockets -> this will go to a new tailor to try him out

russel check, sb jacket, jetted pockets (maybe flaps, not sure)

db suit, jetted pockets

herringbone sb jacket, patch pockets

moon glencheck sb jacket, patch pockets

moon worsted wool sb jacket, jetted pockets

spencer bryson dark green linen sb jacket, patch pockets

dormeuil grey corduroy suit, jetted pockets

bateman ogden hopsack sb jacket, jetted pockets

standeven explorer suit, jetted pockets

then some trousers, cav twill (halstead) and tartan (marton mills), both 1 pleat
fresco 2 pleats, 5cm cuffs on all

 

[CLH03]

I've finally decided on the cloth that will be funded this trip -

Some great choices. Where is the dark grey w/ black glen check from? I’ve been on the hunt for something like that.

 

[camez_]

Some great choices. Where is the dark grey w/ black glen check from? I’ve been on the hunt for something like that.

non-selvedged english cloth
was the last length leftover, sorry

 

[reidd]

I've finally decided on the cloth that will be funded this trip - will be quite a big order with 4 different tailors in Istanbul, most of it will be split between Sedat Selvi, Muhammet Nasyrlayev, Zülal Akbulut and will try out Sahin Demir for one comission

vintage selfstripe, sb suit

navy wool sb (maybe db, not sure yet) jacket, jetted pockets -> this will go to a new tailor to try him out

russel check, sb jacket, jetted pockets (maybe flaps, not sure)

db suit, jetted pockets

herringbone sb jacket, patch pockets

moon glencheck sb jacket, patch pockets

moon worsted wool sb jacket, jetted pockets

spencer bryson dark green linen sb jacket, patch pockets

dormeuil grey corduroy suit, jetted pockets

bateman ogden hopsack sb jacket, jetted pockets

standeven explorer suit, jetted pockets

then some trousers, cav twill (halstead) and tartan (marton mills), both 1 pleat
fresco 2 pleats, 5cm cuffs on all

Lots of fantastic stuff here. Can you share a bit more about these Istanbul tailors? I would assume they are pretty good value?

 

[camez_]

Lots of fantastic stuff here. Can you share a bit more about these Istanbul tailors? I would assume they are pretty good value?

You can scroll through my post history. They tend to run from 700-1500 Euro depending on the person (read: foreigner prices, relation to the tailor etc). Zülal doesn't take new customers as he's old (as his prices). Sedat Selvi worked along Ayhan Apaydin, the most known Istanbul tailor for many years. Ayhan has closed his shop now and Sedat has opened one on his own (together with Muhammet, who'll sadly return to his home country in a couple of months, though).

I have another tailor in Bursa, Fevzi Ulu, but won't visit him til autumn this year. Have around 10 projects open with him.

 

[tim_horton]

That Moon glen plaid jacketing is beautiful.

I've been gently criticized by my tailor for ordering too many plaid jackets.

 

[camez_]

That Moon glen plaid jacketing is beautiful.

I've been gently criticized by my tailor for ordering too many plaid jackets.

I had to back down from many pow/glencheck/plaids as my friends told me to stop with that - also I have/had a quite big focus on brown fabrics, not sure why I'm quite attracted by that colour in particular recently..

 

[hitsuji]

I've finally decided on the cloth that will be funded this trip - will be quite a big order with 4 different tailors in Istanbul, most of it will be split between Sedat Selvi, Muhammet Nasyrlayev, Zülal Akbulut and will try out Sahin Demir for one comission

vintage selfstripe, sb suit

navy wool sb (maybe db, not sure yet) jacket, jetted pockets -> this will go to a new tailor to try him out

russel check, sb jacket, jetted pockets (maybe flaps, not sure)

db suit, jetted pockets

herringbone sb jacket, patch pockets

moon glencheck sb jacket, patch pockets

moon worsted wool sb jacket, jetted pockets

spencer bryson dark green linen sb jacket, patch pockets

dormeuil grey corduroy suit, jetted pockets

bateman ogden hopsack sb jacket, jetted pockets

standeven explorer suit, jetted pockets

then some trousers, cav twill (halstead) and tartan (marton mills), both 1 pleat
fresco 2 pleats, 5cm cuffs on all

That Cav twill looks similar! Had mine made up last week

 

[LJ1891]

That Cav twill looks similar! Had mine made up last week

Pics or it didn’t happen

 

[P-K-L]

I've finally decided on the cloth that will be funded this trip - will be quite a big order with 4 different tailors in Istanbul, most of it will be split between Sedat Selvi, Muhammet Nasyrlayev, Zülal Akbulut and will try out Sahin Demir for one comission

vintage selfstripe, sb suit

navy wool sb (maybe db, not sure yet) jacket, jetted pockets -> this will go to a new tailor to try him out

russel check, sb jacket, jetted pockets (maybe flaps, not sure)

db suit, jetted pockets

herringbone sb jacket, patch pockets

moon glencheck sb jacket, patch pockets

moon worsted wool sb jacket, jetted pockets

spencer bryson dark green linen sb jacket, patch pockets

dormeuil grey corduroy suit, jetted pockets

bateman ogden hopsack sb jacket, jetted pockets

standeven explorer suit, jetted pockets

then some trousers, cav twill (halstead) and tartan (marton mills), both 1 pleat
fresco 2 pleats, 5cm cuffs on all

Which sort of glue / machinery is most fitting for the Moon fabrics?

 

[hitsuji]

Pics or it didn’t happen

Have got to get the photographer out to show me with them on! Has a lovely colour depth to it in person. I think its a little lighter than the standard 600-630g Cav Twills, more around 500~

 

[DorianGreen]

Have got to get the photographer out to show me with them on! Has a lovely colour depth to it in person. I think its a little lighter than the standard 600-630g Cav Twills, more around 500~ View attachment 2123269

Beautiful colour and fabric.

 

[LJ1891]

@hitsuji looks like they did a good job 👍
What mill is the ct from?