Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[brax]

Many amazing fabrics!

Number 3 and 4 on the left pie both look like reverse or shadow stripes. Where are they from? Number 3 might be LL? What about the very last one on the left pile?

You’re right. It does appear that way.

Number 3 on the left is indeed the LL reverse stripe. My first length of this is at the tailor now. It will be a 1BPL.

Number 4 on the list is:

And the last one on the left is the second length of this London Lounge:

It is more blue than appears in the picture.

 

[brax]

The reverse hacking pocket on the jacket looks interesting...

Interesting but super impractical.

 

[brax]

Can anyone point me in the direction of Calvary twill?

LL QUCT

 

[LJ1891]

INV034 | Search From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality

Buy INV034 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

The Invincible book is worth a look

I ended up going with the grey cavalry twill, dark grey cavalry twill, and the camel brown bedford cord 👍

 

[oscarthewild]

Using jacketing for suiting.
I have suit length this fabric. Not very spongy. Duller than it looks in the picture.
Any advice on getting trousers made from this?

Thank you.

 

[jonathanS]

I’ve got Zegna RTW pieces in my closet that are nearing 20 years old and a bespoke S130s from VBCs perennials that I didn’t bother getting a second pair of trousers with a date stamp of May 2006 going strong and no worse for the wear. To each their own but I find the stuff about Italian cloth or Super whatever’s being junk to mainly be just a bunch of hyperbole.

My objection to super 130s / 120s isn’t necessarily durability (which it is when you get up to super 180s), but its identity: is it a summer suit? Or a winter suit?

Often times, if it’s lightweight (summer) it does not breath enough for summer. Whereas if it’s for winter, it’s too light for walking around outside.

On a note about lightweight, I really hate the wrinkles that emerge too. Whereas with heavier fabrics, the wrinkles fall out nicely & I prefer mohair blends / frescos for summer suits.

 

[FlyingHorker]

What kind of tweed weave is this? Broken twill?

 

[SimonC]

Broken loom?

 

[DorianGreen]

A stunning cloth on this jacket.

 

[Baked Potato]

What do you guys think about wearing a “lighter” jacket with a heavier pair of trousers? I’ve been eyeing a rather nice wool/cashmere fabric from Rogna, which I’ve been thinking of using to make a jacket. It’s around 330g. My flannel trousers I have (and which I’ve been thinking of pairing with the jacket) are heavier (some around 370g and some 450g). Would it be odd to make that kind of pairing?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Liabilities for some projects this winter and spring arrived in Naples.

 

[CLH03]

What do you guys think about wearing a “lighter” jacket with a heavier pair of trousers? I’ve been eyeing a rather nice wool/cashmere fabric from Rogna, which I’ve been thinking of using to make a jacket. It’s around 330g. My flannel trousers I have (and which I’ve been thinking of pairing with the jacket) are heavier (some around 370g and some 450g). Would it be odd to make that kind of pairing?

I don’t really think so. 330 g isn’t exactly lightweight. I think as long as the textures work together, it’s ok.

 

[circumspice]

Liabilities for some projects this winter and spring arrived in Naples.
View attachment 2094291

The gunclub on the hard right looks very, very similar in palette to the left most fabric? Feels a bit redundant? The right most looks a bit hairier, perhaps.

 

[Concordia]

Using jacketing for suiting.
I have suit length this fabric. Not very spongy. Duller than it looks in the picture.
Any advice on getting trousers made from this?

Thank you.

Assuming you want to try, consider getting them lined. That will take some of the stress out of the knees when you sit down. Otherwise, be aware that you might end up wearing the jacket separately more often than not.

 

[oldworldelegance]

You’re right. It does appear that way.

Number 3 on the left is indeed the LL reverse stripe. My first length of this is at the tailor now. It will be a 1BPL.

Number 4 on the list is:
View attachment 2093177
And the last one on the left is the second length of this London Lounge:
View attachment 2093179
It is more blue than appears in the picture.

Fantastic! Thanks for the pictures.

I love the reverse stripe. I'm looking forward to picking up my finished LL reverse stripe suit tomorrow (fingers crossed). Hardy Minis has some but the stripes could be a bit wider like the LL version.

Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by 1BPL? 1 button ...?