Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[tim_horton]

1) what do people think of the lighter cloths in the Fox Worsted Flannel book (i.e. the 9/10 oz fabrics), specifically made up as a casual suit? I have seen good reviews of this book but I think they have referred mostly to the heavier fabrics.

I've never used it. I have used a Holland & Sherry worsted flannel of a similar weight (9 oz. I believe), and while I'm not a stickler for fabric performance per se, it did feel light and flimsy, relatively, and I wished I had gone heavier. That being said, it was a standard midgrey flannel, the kind you can find in any flannel book at almost any weight. This pattern and color would have fewer options.

 

[breakaway01]

try standeven's oxbridge 22035 / 22036

Thanks—forgot to mentioned that I ordered these swatches. On the fence about them—the base color is a bit darker and leans slightly greenish IIRC.

 

[CLH03]

Two related questions --

1) what do people think of the lighter cloths in the Fox Worsted Flannel book (i.e. the 9/10 oz fabrics), specifically made up as a casual suit? I have seen good reviews of this book but I think they have referred mostly to the heavier fabrics.

2) looking for a brown/cream (generally more greyish-brown than redish-brown, I think) micro houndstooth flannel. Something like this Minnis flannel that is no longer available, sadly.

View attachment 2079429


This is a 9/10 oz Fox Worsted Flannel but I think the scale might be a bit smaller and the color a little warmer than what I'm looking for. I'd want to order a swatch.

View attachment 2079439

Seems kind of light for a flannel, especially if you tend to wear out your pants

 

[breakaway01]

Seems kind of light for a flannel, especially if you tend to wear out your pants

I don't seem to wear my clothes out very quickly but I agree, this seems light for a flannel esp for trousers. That being said, I've had good experiences with other (heavier) Fox fabrics so would be willing to consider if others rate it highly.

 

[Concordia]

Delicate and warm. Not what I would choose for a sticky summer day.

 

[The_Schmidt]

Two related questions --

1) what do people think of the lighter cloths in the Fox Worsted Flannel book (i.e. the 9/10 oz fabrics), specifically made up as a casual suit? I have seen good reviews of this book but I think they have referred mostly to the heavier fabrics.

I typically dont use too heavy fabrics, so for me, something in the 300 - 360 g/m range certainly qualifies for a nice winter garment. However, for a suit I would prefer a bit ligher weights on the lower end of said spectrum, than for a odd jackets/trousers.

But that is just me being special, I guess.

 

[Baked Potato]

Probably not the best photos, but which velvet shade of these two would work best with the Fox overcoating fabric (a Chesterfield coat, as previously mentioned)? Isn't the first (upper) one too dark?

 

[ZRH1]

the first, the second one is too different. Also, the first in full size, in daylight, should appear lighter.

 

[bernoulli]

Regarding 9/10oz flannels, I cannot recommend Huddersfeld's flannel enough: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/510068. Drape is excellent, even after a couple of years.

 

[kolecho]

The recent Rangoon runs are ready for delivery next week. I have some extra in black, dark navy and mid grey (suitings). Please PM if interested. Thanks.

I have a suit's length of dark blue nailhead Rangoon ready to ship from the mill. Please PM if interested. Thanks.

 

[Concordia]

Different from the recent blue or last spring's navy solid?

 

[oldworldelegance]

Regarding 9/10oz flannels, I cannot recommend Huddersfeld's flannel enough: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/510068. Drape is excellent, even after a couple of years. View attachment 2079893 View attachment 2079895

I have a pair of trousers in it, and as far as I can see it's fully worsted (not a woollen/worsted mix), right? That gives it strength and it helps it drape better at the expense of losing some softness and fluffiness.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Seems kind of light for a flannel, especially if you tend to wear out your pants

It's worsted, so the cloth would be much stronger than a woollen flannel of the same weight. That being said, I haven't tried Fox's worsted flannel so I can't comment on the specific fabric.

 

[oldworldelegance]

try standeven's oxbridge 22035 / 22036

I took a look at the book (I think you had recommended it previously) when visiting my tailor last week and I was positively surprised by the feel. Seems like an interesting compromise between worsted and woollen.

 

[Concordia]

Those are S120s, though. Are they really worsted?