Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

How do you wear that in the summer? I get that Boston summers are milder than Florida, but that’s too hot.



I suppose. I can’t think of any spring summer fabric that works well with denim. Especially raw denim. I hate raw denim. Too much of a hassle imo, fabric bleeds. No idea why people do that to themselves. But denim, imo, doesn’t work well in summer (too hot)

On an aside, kotaro picked out the 4ply for a jacket when I asked about a summer navy blazer, then I saw the fabric and wanted a suit. Imo, very few people will notice the denim and 4ply don’t mesh. You’ll look like a guy in a navy blazer with jeans.

If you like hopsack, go for that. Basketweave. Something in that realm that breathes and you can throw a coat over.

Cotton, heavy linen, slubby silks pair well with denim imo. I usually go with a western shirt plus neckerchief of some sort but that is probably not to everybody's taste.

 

[brax]

Yeah my guess is they'll be basically identical! I'm trying to think of the stylistic decisions I've made that could make for a difference…like I said, the only accent I'm doing with the brown side is the underside of the collar, and I'm doing brown horn buttons. Nothing else I can think of that would distinguish mine from yours – other than the pattern, of course.

We didn’t talk buttons so that may differentiate the two. I also asked for as little lining in the body as he was comfortable with. But other than those possibilities, I think we’re getting the same coat. But you’ll get yours a year before me.

 

[brax]

Out of curiosity, was qemal able to turnaround a first fitting in New York on this upcoming trip?

Nope. I assume that my first fitting will be on his next trip.

 

[brax]

How do you wear that in the summer? I get that Boston summers are milder than Florida, but that’s too hot.



I suppose. I can’t think of any spring summer fabric that works well with denim. Especially raw denim. I hate raw denim. Too much of a hassle imo, fabric bleeds. No idea why people do that to themselves. But denim, imo, doesn’t work well in summer (too hot)

On an aside, kotaro picked out the 4ply for a jacket when I asked about a summer navy blazer, then I saw the fabric and wanted a suit. Imo, very few people will notice the denim and 4ply don’t mesh. You’ll look like a guy in a navy blazer with jeans.

If you like hopsack, go for that. Basketweave. Something in that realm that breathes and you can throw a coat over.

I love raw denim and all of my jeans are made from various raw denim suppliers. I agree that most raw denim is not well suited for hot weather but my jeans maker (Detroit Denim) found some awesome linen/cotton raw selvage denim. I bought three pairs so that I will always have it available.

 

[jonathanS]

I love raw denim and all of my jeans are made from various raw denim suppliers. I agree that most raw denim is not well suited for hot weather but my jeans maker (Detroit Denim) found some awesome linen/cotton raw selvage denim that is awesome. I bought three pairs so that I will always have it available.

Cotton linen denim sounds nice.

Maybe it’s just me then, I wash my jeans. Not all the time, but I want the option. Sticking denim in the freezer or whatever denim heads to isn’t for me.

Cotton, heavy linen, slubby silks pair well with denim imo. I usually go with a western shirt plus neckerchief of some sort but that is probably not to everybody's taste.

Silks don’t breath well - maybe wsl blends, but even those aren’t great. You might be on to something with the Irish linen suggestion, but linen in the winter? It makes sense when you add in throwing a coat on. Idk

This is a personal preference, but I hate cotton for jackets / suits. It’s slightly better for trousers, but I’m not a huge fan. Cotton is washable to me (above commentary on denim - I’m consistent haha)

 

[The Chai]

Soz I thought you meant only summer. For winter I quite like wearing my corduroy SC or my mohair blazer with jeans. Halstead makes a mohair denim which is quite interesting...

There are winter weight linens which do look wintery...

Cotton linen denim sounds nice.

Maybe it’s just me then, I wash my jeans. Not all the time, but I want the option. Sticking denim in the freezer or whatever denim heads to isn’t for me.



Silks don’t breath well - maybe wsl blends, but even those aren’t great. You might be on to something with the Irish linen suggestion, but linen in the winter? It makes sense when you add in throwing a coat on. Idk

This is a personal preference, but I hate cotton for jackets / suits. It’s slightly better for trousers, but I’m not a huge fan. Cotton is washable to me (above commentary on denim - I’m consistent haha)

 

[CLH03]

9-10

Hi All,

Overhauling my wardrobe with a mix of MTM and bespoke and was hoping for some cloth suggestions for a core versatile navy jacket, with the following considerations in mind:

1) Live in Boston, summer is usually at least partly in London, and over time will be traveling a fair bit to a mix of places/climates.

2) Have an MTM blazer in the works in Minnis 510048 navy flannel (14.5oz, SB, patch pockets, Italian make and style) and another in Holland & Sherry 8821105 11oz grey herringbone tweed (more British cut and vibe).

The MTM commissions were to get going in time for fall/winter here and cover both work and play.

I’m now focused on a bespoke commission for a SB navy versatile jacket that I could wear year-round (barring perhaps the absolute depths of summer or winter). I’m looking for something that can be paired with both dress pants and jeans (tend to get raw denim and then let it slowly fade).

If I do this right, this should be the most used piece in my wardrobe, useable both at work (finance, business casual setting) and on the weekend, hence saving one of my bespoke bullets for it.

Any particular suggestions for cloth in terms of general type of fabric or specific references for the above situation?

In the past, my dedicated navy jackets/blazers have all been RTW, and so the fabric/styling choices were limited. I did have a Hackett one made with Fox hopsack that I used a LOT, and felt OK with jeans, although I’ve read some think hopsack is a faux pas with denim.

FWIW, this commission will be with a Florentine tailor, with the attendant cut/style. Open to pocket styles, and leaning towards dark brown horn buttons, but open to other materials.

If it makes any difference, my subsequent commission is likely to be a dark green jacket/blazer, but the navy one is the focus at the moment.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/guidance

9-10 oz hopsack. Almost every mill does one, and plenty of relatively affordable options out there. I wouldn’t even consider another fabric if you truly need a year round jacket

 

[camez_]

I am getting my tailor to secure one from Bateman Ogden

got the gold tone one from them

 

[camez_]

The navy faint windowpane flannel looks interestinf. Which one us it?

no selvedge, but italian made flannel, lightweight (360g), so nothing fancy
just need some suiting for work and this will be made up for that purpose

 

[MrBokito]

This is my versatile navy jacket Oligarch.

 

[mactire]

In other news, for those who like their fabrics super-classic OR out of the ordinary, Mood Fabric here in New York once again has a giant quantity of stuff from Thom Browne. I personally don't like his cut but love his fabrics, which come from diverse sources even though he's now part of Zegna. Some gray wool-mohair suiting had William Halstead selvage, for example.
View attachment 1870312
When I visited W 37th St yesterday I saw two main groups. Wool suitings, mostly solid gray, and shirting-weight and heavier cottons in awning stripes and giant plaids. Photo of the latter attached.

Some of the stuff is online but there's always more in store.

Prices are reasonable. Swatches available.

Thom Browne at Mood online selection

Apart from the above are there other cloth merchants to visit while in new York?

 

[mack11211]

Apart from the above are there other cloth merchants to visit while in new York?

This is a list I got from the people at SF affiliate vendor Kent Wang. For classic menswear fabrics, the best of these is Tip Top.

MENSWEAR FABRIC STORES IN NEW YORK

In Garment District:

Beckenstein, famous for menswear fabrics

B&J menswear fabrics for the theater industry, some fun stuff

Mood Fabric, a big bazaar

On Lower East Side:

Blacktree, for vintage menswear fabrics

In Greenpoint Brooklyn:

Tip Top, my favorite

 

[oz_boater]

Gun to the head if I had to pick one I would go for a double breasted belted trench in wool or cotton drill gabardine. Belted polo would be a close second. I find myself wearing more trenches in Australia as the winters here tend to be more rain driven and you never really "need" an overcoat here.

Noticed this post.
Am interested in acquiring a quality waterproof (mainly) trench for trips during cooler / wetter seasons. But have pretty well struck out in Australia. Have not really found anyone who stocks them other than Burberry.

Where would be a good place to look for quality trench coats in Oz? Something I would not be embarrassed to wear in Venice.

Based on their gallery, "The Finery Company" in Paddington can clearly make one, but I am not sure I am ready to go that far without exploring other options.

Apologies if I should be popping this in a different thread.

 

[Concordia]

Drake's in Lonodn has a new (expensive) SB raincoat. Obviously RTW, but looks pretty nice in the pics. And full cut, so you can adjust the belt to make it look its best.

 

[oz_boater]

Drake's in Lonodn has a new (expensive) SB raincoat. Obviously RTW, but looks pretty nice in the pics. And full cut, so you can adjust the belt to make it look its best.

This one?

Drake’s for Permanent Style Rider’s Raincoat

In collaboration with Permanent Style, we have developed this classically-styled piece of outerwear modelled on archival cavalry garb from the late 19th Century. An indispensable garment (for us here in perpetually rainy London, at least). This is our idea of the perfect raincoat: a...

www.drakes.com

Looks like it was done by the same chap who did the Motor Trench for Private White.

The Permanent Style Ventile® Motor Trench

With over a year in the making we are delighted to announce the launch of our latest collaboration with Simon Crompton from Permanent Style.

www.privatewhitevc.com